Author Topic: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M  (Read 2637 times)
Zarlog
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Posts: 916
View Gallery


UCM30tBQDUECOV6VeG5W87Vg
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #15 on: October 01, 2015, 06:02:22 AM » Author: Zarlog
...And this one:


I can see why that attracts bugs. Clear MV lamps are used to attract moths and other insects for bug inspection purposes.
First, I would advise you get a new refractor, your local fleet farm or menards should have them.

Second, get a /DX coated bulb. They don't produce as much UV, and have more yellow in them.

And last, use some yellow glass stain to stain the new refractor and make the light yellow. Make sure you use enough, because if there is not enough paint it will just look like an icky off-white color. Since /DX bulbs produce more yellow, they would probably be a better choice.

Good luck!  Wink
Logged

"Sometimes, the most overlooked opportunities are in the learning of and improvement in old technologies."
LED = Low efficiency disaster

Zarlog
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Posts: 916
View Gallery


UCM30tBQDUECOV6VeG5W87Vg
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #16 on: December 07, 2015, 05:06:17 PM » Author: Zarlog
...And this one:


If you could get a new enclosed refractor for that, you could tint it dark yellow (with yellow printer ink on the inside) and use a /DX lamp. It would still provide enough light for your application, but it would be yellow, as not to attract bugs.
Logged

"Sometimes, the most overlooked opportunities are in the learning of and improvement in old technologies."
LED = Low efficiency disaster

Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #17 on: December 07, 2015, 08:08:22 PM » Author: Pj

If you could get a new enclosed refractor for that, you could tint it dark yellow (with yellow printer ink on the inside) and use a /DX lamp. It would still provide enough light for your application, but it would be yellow, as not to attract bugs.


The old refractor was open-ended, not fully enclosed.   

Now that the bulb is fully exposed, could a cold rain or snow blow-up the bulb when it's on overnight?   

It hasn't yet with recent rains and one light snow event.   Undecided




.
Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

Solanaceae
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1578
View Gallery

All photos are brought to you by Bubby industries.


GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #18 on: December 07, 2015, 08:13:17 PM » Author: Solanaceae
If you're talking about a merc, then no. I seen an MV NEMA get battered by rain and tree limbs for years and it didn't bat an eye.
Logged

Me💡Irl
My LG Gallery
My GoL Gallery

sol
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Posts: 597
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #19 on: December 07, 2015, 08:14:36 PM » Author: sol
There's no guarantee the lamp won't shatter from cold rain or snow. However, I've known some lamps (175W) to run for many years (some day burners) unprotected by any shield or refractor, and not shatter. Only time will tell, but the answer is probably not. Some of the lamps I'm talking about were on top of a hill near the ocean (and very, very windy). With snow, some flakes will end up in an open bottom refractor no matter what...
Logged
Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #20 on: December 07, 2015, 10:30:40 PM » Author: Pj
Yeah, but I also noticed my 100w HPS unit attracted tons of moths and flies. Huh?


Oh, poo.   I thought the color temp of HPS would be like a bug light, at least reduce the buggies?


I was (maybe still) thinking to covert to HPS or just get an HPS assembly.   Is the ballast located in the housing where the photo detector sits atop?


.
Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

Solanaceae
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1578
View Gallery

All photos are brought to you by Bubby industries.


GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #21 on: December 07, 2015, 10:34:48 PM » Author: Solanaceae
I had an enclosed lens that I homemade and it was filled with a nice layer of bugs. And yes. But you need to get an HX NPF choke to wrk.
Logged

Me💡Irl
My LG Gallery
My GoL Gallery

Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #22 on: December 08, 2015, 12:26:20 AM » Author: Pj
I had an enclosed lens that I homemade and it was filled with a nice layer of bugs. And yes. But you need to get an HX NPF choke to wrk.



Core & Coil or an Electronic Ballast for HPS conversion?

  https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/high-pressure-sodium-ballasts/





.

Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

nicksfans
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 691
View Gallery

Down with lamp bans!


the.baus.of.all.bauses UCDl2EWWZc9h1IZXcfGU9OZA nicksfans
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #23 on: December 08, 2015, 12:41:41 AM » Author: nicksfans
I'd think this would work nicely if it fits...check the dimensions to be sure. Obviously you will need a 100-watt mogul base HPS lamp too.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/6004/BS-LU0100120.html

You could also use a 50 or 70 watt ballast/lamp but anything over 100 watt would probably be overkill.
« Last Edit: December 08, 2015, 12:43:32 AM by nicksfans » Logged

I like my lamps thick, my ballasts heavy, and my fixtures tough.

My Gallery
Instagram
YouTube

Zarlog
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Posts: 916
View Gallery


UCM30tBQDUECOV6VeG5W87Vg
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #24 on: December 08, 2015, 08:53:00 AM » Author: Zarlog
Yeah, but I also noticed my 100w HPS unit attracted tons of moths and flies. Huh?


Oh, poo.   I thought the color temp of HPS would be like a bug light, at least reduce the buggies?


I was (maybe still) thinking to covert to HPS or just get an HPS assembly.   Is the ballast located in the housing where the photo detector sits atop?


.

How large of an area do you need the light to cover? HPS ballasts on 1000bulbs are extremely cheap, even with shipping, so I would just get one of those. yes, the ballast is in the housing where the photocell sits atop. Don't use an electronic ballast, they are waaaaay too expensive, plus the heat would probably kill it. If you need it, I can post a pic of the ballast location in a MV yardblaster fixture. Mine are different from what you have, but they are probably the same on the inside.
Logged

"Sometimes, the most overlooked opportunities are in the learning of and improvement in old technologies."
LED = Low efficiency disaster

Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #25 on: March 16, 2016, 09:19:15 PM » Author: Pj

Oh my.   Looked out back moments ago and it is BLACK outside.  

To the basement I go.  

Got a step-ladder and ventured out the basement door.  

Up the ladder I go and as I reached atop and touched the photocell cover, the bulb started up.

As I got back inside and looked out moments later, it was out again.  

Is it the bulb going bad or something loose up there?  

I didn't try to jostle the photocell again - I just unscrewed and removed the bulb.  

For now, I got a shielded, clamp-on work light out there with a 60-Watt bulb.  I put foil around the cord and switch to keep any rain out.   Undecided
The cord is routed inside and plugged into a 120V socket.  


I'll check into it tomorrow and see what wiring may be compromised.  
 Shocked



.

« Last Edit: March 16, 2016, 09:24:33 PM by Pj » Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #26 on: March 17, 2016, 09:18:24 PM » Author: Pj
Update:  

I took the fixture down.  Clean-out all the years of bugs and an old wasp or hornet nest.  

Checked screws and tightened up a few.  

The culprit I believe was the photocell unit.  

'Lo' and 'N' connections were a very tiny bit loose.  'Li' was quite loose.  
I thought about drilling-out the 'pressed' connections and replace them with
screws, washers, and nuts, but I just ended up using a Vise-Grip, a bolt,
and a nut as my 'homemade' Pressing Tool.  

It's getting close to sunset, so I stopped the 'operation' with the photocell
unit to go back outside to reassemble and put the fixture back up.  (I inserted
some screening in the neck opening.  Hopefully, this will keep out the larger bugs
and things.)  

Back to the photocell unit:  

I took apart the relay assembly and cleaned up the contacts.  
I 'compressed' the three connections and all are super-tight now.  

I reassembled the photocell unit.  

The now brittle plastic photocell cover is cracked and exposed on
top with some missing fragments, so I just covered it all up with
clear tape for now.  It should hold for a while.  

With circuit breaker off, I plugged in and gave the photocell unit a
little clockwise twist.  

At approximately 8:30pm EDT, I turned on the circuit breaker.  The MV
lamp is aglow, getting brighter as the seconds tick away.  

It's past 11:15pm EDT here in Ohio... and the Yard-Blaster is still going strong!  

I think it's fixed, but I'll see how it goes over the days and weeks ahead.  

Are spare photocell units easily obtained nowadays?  Are these pretty much
standard across many types of security lighting fixtures?

The setscrew for the relay.  Does this help adjust for a 'sooner' or 'later'
turn-on?  I'd like to increase the delay of the light turning on.  

So, this was my first adventure at tinkering around with said device.
As Spock would say, "Fascinating."    Grin

(I had the necessary 'fine tools', also.)    Smiley



.



« Last Edit: March 18, 2016, 09:52:12 PM by Pj » Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

nicksfans
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 691
View Gallery

Down with lamp bans!


the.baus.of.all.bauses UCDl2EWWZc9h1IZXcfGU9OZA nicksfans
Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #27 on: March 17, 2016, 09:22:31 PM » Author: nicksfans
Those photocells are readily available in the lighting section of home improvement and hardware stores. The ones with the clear plastic cover are not the best quality, but they will work.
Logged

I like my lamps thick, my ballasts heavy, and my fixtures tough.

My Gallery
Instagram
YouTube

Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #28 on: March 18, 2016, 09:54:38 PM » Author: Pj
3 more pics...
Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

Pj
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 28
View Gallery

Re: Inquiry on Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M « Reply #29 on: September 12, 2016, 04:32:27 PM » Author: Pj

Those photocells are readily available in the lighting section
of home improvement and hardware stores.

The ones with the clear plastic cover are not the best quality, but they will work.




The Photocell crapped-out again, recently.  Hole in taped-up cover.  Weathered relay.  I messed up the spring-action on the relay, so I turned it into a 'always on' device.  The MV lamp is still working.  I don't know how many years that bulb has. 

I see on Amazon or Home Depot or Walmart, of the 'clear' or 'milky' covered photocell units, most actually have pretty good ratings.  These are the "Touch and Glow", "Brinks", 'Westek', and "Cooper" brands.  "Woods" was 'poorer' rated.

Anyway, the 'acting' landlord agent will pick one up when I contact him, I suppose.  I see the red or maroon 'UtiliTech' brand at Lowes has 12 reviews with One-and-a-Half Stars.  The 'Tork' brand has no reviews.






.
Logged

"I know just enough to be dangerous."   Mercury Vapor Lamp Grin

Print 
© 2005-2017 Lighting-Gallery.net | Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines