Author Topic: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ?  (Read 184 times)
Lightingguy1994
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Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « on: January 05, 2017, 09:22:46 PM » Author: Lightingguy1994
I have a kinda low quality made in china magnetic 2lamp HPF ballast dated 2002 and missing its label, found in a cheap 4ft wrap from curbside. When I tried it with both a set of 34 and 40w lamps, they weren't driven very hard and were pretty dim.

I was wondering if maybe it could run two F20T12 lamps better. And so, here I am, trying it out in a 2lamp F20striplight with a pair of GE F20T12 CW lamps

My system readings on killawatt are:
0.28A
34W (6w with no lamps)
0.97PF.


Cathode heating is 4v per socket, OCV is 267.
Running voltage to lamps is 139 -142v

Overall it seems to work great, decent brightness and the startup takes a few seconds with a slow rampup.

Thoughts ? Would like to know how these readings compare to whats normal for a 2xF20T12 HPF system. Would like to keep this setup if its good. thanks

« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 09:37:23 PM by Lightingguy1994 » Logged

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Ash
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #1 on: January 06, 2017, 02:50:42 AM » Author: Ash
On a choke here (pretty much all 230V 50Hz chokes are full power, if we dont count random Chinese cheapies), 20W lamp runs at 370mA. This would be also the correct current on a choke at 60Hz

A system with choke can be made HPF by adding capacitor of the correct value across the line voltage input. But that would not have any effect on the lamp current, and largely not matter at all unless you have many of them on one circuit
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Lightingguy1994
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #2 on: January 07, 2017, 12:59:44 PM » Author: Lightingguy1994
In this case I am using a 2x40w Magnetic Rapid Start high power factor ballast to run the 20w lamps, since this ballast actually grossly underdrives F40 and F34 lamps.
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #3 on: January 07, 2017, 05:46:09 PM » Author: Ash
Carefull.. The arc voltage of a F20 is 60ish V, while for the F40 it is about 100..110V, and the F34 i'd assume somewhere inbetween. The F34 damages F40 ballasts (ones not rated for F34) because of its lower arc voltage. Same could happen when you put a F20 on a ballast that is not meant to handle anything below an F34
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Lightingguy1994
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #4 on: January 08, 2017, 01:21:47 AM » Author: Lightingguy1994
The ballast seems to consume less current with F20s. Seems to run happy in this setup. Would never do this with any of my good ballasts, just this one since it seems to be a cheapo that underdrives anything 
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #5 on: January 08, 2017, 02:26:02 AM » Author: Ash
Compare the working temperature
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funkybulb
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #6 on: January 08, 2017, 08:14:16 AM » Author: funkybulb
Like ash said u can cook your ballast this way.
I have done same thing on cheap china sunpark
Rapid start ballast.  2x F20s on 2 lamp F40s ballast
The temp will creep up on ya as when i started smelling
Tar from it. It do to lower arc voltage.
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Lightingguy1994
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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #7 on: January 08, 2017, 11:39:08 AM » Author: Lightingguy1994
How long does it take for the temp to get hot ? Ballast was barely warm when I tried a 2hour run. What test time would you recommend
« Last Edit: January 08, 2017, 11:41:08 AM by Lightingguy1994 » Logged

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Re: Running specs of 2x20 lamps on magnetic HPF ballast ? « Reply #8 on: January 08, 2017, 12:48:11 PM » Author: Ash
I measured some time back how fast a Mini 40N ballast reaches final temperature in normal and stuck starter modes. The mass of this thing is about 1/2kg, virtually all of which is Metal - This is an European design ballast, without Tar fill or the like. On the Concrete outdoors, in open Air, it took 20..30 min to reach final temps in the normal working mode (as measured by a temperature sensor with LCD display out of a PC case. The thing was wiped out by the Magnetic field from the ballast, showing nonsense on the LCD - i had to switch off the ballast for a moment to get a temperature reading each time. The stuck starter temp went quickly above what the sensor could measure)

I'd expect longer time inside an enclosed lantern (slower heat transfer), and for bigger ballast, atleast for very rough estimate, scale it according to the ballast's mass (assuming it is more or less representative of its thermal capacity)
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