Author Topic: LPS or HPS flashlight?  (Read 17464 times)
Ash
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #15 on: July 12, 2017, 10:24:19 AM » Author: Ash
Many ballasts have PFC i.e. boost converter in them. Many are rated "100..240V" AC. I'd expect them to handle big voltage range..

What about some cell ballancer along the lines of :

 - long string of diodes in series

 - Parallel to each diode is a cell + a mosfet that connects/disconnects this cell

 - When the cell goes below wanted voltage the transistor is shut off and only the path through the diode remains
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #16 on: July 12, 2017, 12:00:56 PM » Author: Medved
Many ballasts have PFC i.e. boost converter in them. Many are rated "100..240V" AC. I'd expect them to handle big voltage range..

That may indeed work. But there is a catch: Some PFC controllers feature active RF filter discharge feature (and some companies offer that functionality even as a separate component). These are intended to identify, if the mains is present and detect if not  and in that case connect discharge resistor for the input RF filter.
The point is, the safety standard requires the filters to be discharged within some time (don't remember the exact value), so you won't get shocked, when you touch the socket contacts of a just unplugged cord. Traditionally this is done by just a simpe resistor across the input filter, but mainly when the filter capacitors are larger (for good EMC filtering), the resistance needs to be rather low and so it is dissipating quite significant power during operation. With these discharge control features the resistor is connected by the extra circuit only when the mains is detected as disconnected, so even when the resistance is really low, there is no power dissipation contribution from it (when powered from mains, the resistor is disconnected).
And the problem lies in the way, how these circuit identify the mains presence: They are looking, if the voltage changes polarity, or if the rectified (but not filtered) voltage is pulsing (following the half-sines). The idea is, when the power is disconnected and the only voltage source there are the filter capacitors, the pulsing, as well as the polarity alterations cease, so when the voltage stays at one polarity and constant level (or slowly decaying), the circuit connects the discharge resistor. And the thing is, the DC supply is seen exactly the same way, so it will false activate the discharge circuit. And because normally the discharge resistor is connected only for the very brief period of discharging the input filter (on switch OFF or power disconnect), their selected rating uses to be really low, so once conected permanently, they may overheat.




What about some cell ballancer along the lines of :

 - long string of diodes in series

 - Parallel to each diode is a cell + a mosfet that connects/disconnects this cell

 - When the cell goes below wanted voltage the transistor is shut off and only the path through the diode remains

This generally is, how the high voltage balancers are done, only they do not use a diode, but another MOSFET instead (for lower losses and ability to do virtually the same even during charging). And even that is seen as quite a complication (mainly the related losses on these MOSes), such circuit is not used across each cell (cells connected in parallel I count as a single cell here), but across a group of few cells in series (usually 3 or 4). Then the MOSFET drop becomes negligible compare to the normal operating voltage of such group, yet disconnecting such group (in case one of the cells become weak due to some reason) does not mean so large voltage loss for the complete system (if the Tesla-S power train gets 585V instead of 600, it means no significant difference for performance, yet the system is in this way able to "swallow" few already dead cells and still continue working).


And except the LiIon assembly of 60 series-parallel 18650's, usually a cell with double capacity is way cheaper than two cells, in other words a 120 cell (to get about 240V) lead acid battery, even when only 4Ah, will be many times more expensive (and bulkier, as well as heavier) than a 6cell (so 12V) 80Ah battery.
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #17 on: July 12, 2017, 01:23:30 PM » Author: Ash
Good to know about the discharge resistor. It looks like it would be fairly easy to spot such circuit (before the rectifier bridge..) and disable it

The rule for limiting the time there is high voltage across plug pins, is this some modern regulation ? I have my fair number of shocks from plug pins, both from PFC capacitors in magnetic ballasted lights and from X and Y caps in electronics. The PFC ones, especially in something like a Mercury lantern without lamp, is basically few 10's uF capacitor charged at anything between 0..325V DC without any means of self discharging (only few have a resistor inside the capacitor or inside the capacitor's terminal block)

Though i wonder : What is considered as dangerous shock there ? Its DC, and for a capacitor of single uF's size (so mostly Fluorescent luminaires), once you touch it you are quite effective discharge resistor anyway so it does not last for too long..
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #18 on: July 12, 2017, 03:24:14 PM » Author: Medved
The voltage has to fall below 50V within some limit. The exact time I do not remember.
I dont know how long is this rule valid, I learned about it only in the context of SMPS and mainly the filter.

And the discharge does not have be in front of the rectifier, with PFC it may well be behind. And you can not disconnect it either, as it often doubles as an startup source...
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #19 on: July 12, 2017, 04:08:15 PM » Author: Ash
Then i can just replace the resistor to higher value, it will take a second more to start...

With SMPS is there need in such discharge circuit ? The SMPS alone still works (or atleast tries to) downto <50V, how long would it take do deplete a capacitor even when it is without load on the SMPS output ?
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #20 on: July 12, 2017, 05:43:56 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
Of course anything you build is cooler then what you can buy, and your only limited to your imagination not corporate shareholder interests, now about the gas engine, you can use pretty much anything to power a small HID light like a 35 or 70 watt HPS, a half decent chain saw is able to run about 1 kW, a weed whacker (well my cheap $50 Home Depot special is 1 HP) is able to do about 600 watts and leaf blower the handheld type can do about 350 to 450 watts, and for simplicity you would want to normally use a 12 volt alternator from a car or truck, you can use other motors but then you need to get into regulation and RPM control of the gas engine and you can get a one wire alternator at most junk yards and they will be complete with a pulley and mounting holes for bolts, and because it's DC it doesn't really care about the engine speed so long as they rotate fast enough. Now yes you can weld it right to the engine output shaft, if you get it perfectly centered and it has the required bearings, or it will vibrate to death in short order, even if your a pro at welding I would strongly advise against doing that, it's much easier to either to use a belt or a coupler (like a  spider coupler) to go from the engine to the alternator, and both make servicing it later so much simpler then having to get out the cutting torch or saw.

About the fuel, most small two stoke engine or reed engines in chainsaws, weed whackers, and leaf blowers, use mixed fuel, so you need to add oil to the gas, in a ratio of about 32 parts gas to 1 part oil some are 40:1 and even 50:1 check the fuel cap but on the positive side they don't care which position you operate them in, yes you can use a chainsaw upside down, with a four stroke normally they don't like that and don't last long..

But don't overlook used lawnmowers (normally they are 4 stoke engines) they are great for a small DC generator and at a yard sale I've seen go for $5, if they pull easy, normally the carb is gummed up and needs to be cleaned or you just need to add some fuel that is not 20 years old (those are the two most common problems, really fuel today doesn't keep long) About fuel usage a gallon of gas will give you about 4 kWh of power, at a good guess..

If you go with an automotive alternator you will need a small 12 volt source to start the power generation something like a 7 Amp hour battery SLA works great and also helps to filter the output and provide enough power to start a larger loads, or larger to make it though refueling periods when you need to shut it down,  and then if you go with a solid state ballast you can use a cheap inverter, if you go magnetic you should use a pure sine wave inverter (look for a used APC smart UPS they are cheap, but you have to mod the alternator to 24 volts, not to hard or get a larger truck one already set to 24 volts, and they have enough room for small batteries and you might even be able to remote mount the ballast inside the box)

Here's a good website about building one from a lawnmower, with a nice write up and pictures  https://theepicenter.com/blog/generator-lawn-mower-vertical/

And while the guy in the instructable uses plywood for the frame, if you have access to a welder and some scrap metal I would build a small metal frame and or look for a busted pressure washer so you can use the wheeled cart to mount it on, yes it's still lighter then a huge lead acid battery, but wheels will make it so much easier when your tired and as you get older..    

I think i will go with the lawnmower then, I am really tired at the moment so I not thinking as fast as i was last night when i posted all that... so whatever happend after you and medved's post is beyond me... not even sure if i could entirely understand that while I'm even fully awake lmao, med and lodge, you both got me conflicted, i like the idea of a gas generator, but the operating cost is something i forgot to take into consideration, on the other hand, batteries lack much of an operational cost, but they are heavier and from what little info I'm able to gather from whatever happend after your posts, requires some sort of individual regulation?... I'm confused. I would like the thing to be able to pump out something a little higher than 1000watts maybe 1100 or 1200 or whatever reasoning behind that is because i want to be able to more "customizable" like since the primary goal is lighting related, I would like to be able to swa; ballasts/lights without worrying about overloading it, examples: mounting a bank of 4 70W hps or 175w MH or mercury lamp flood lights, mounting a dual 400w MH flood or a single 1000W HPS or whatever i can possibly think of doing which could and likely will include non lighting related applications. i was figuring the gas powered genny would be simpler for me since there is a good amount of engines laying around that i could get my mits on, and it is easier for me to increase the runtime since all i have to do is make the fuel tank bigger, the alternator idea i like, I'm not sure how to distinguish between different alternator types (external regulator, internal regulator, and internal regulator which requires control switch) also not sure what vehicles i would find the different types in, or what kindof trucks would have 24V ones, also how would i pull it from the vehicle? is there bolts? screws? some weird ties? (never worked on vehicles before) which alternator would be best? also possibly a very stupid question, but is there such thing as an AC alternator? so i could use a step up transformer?... wait... no nevermind that.... that would probably be a nightmare... i dont feel like winding transformers lol,  also the line frequency thing scares me, I'm not sure how to measure that, all i have is a multimeter, would the inverter take care of that issue?




the way that lightpost there is.... is what i mean by floods
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #21 on: July 12, 2017, 06:59:21 PM » Author: Lodge
About the lawnmower idea vertical shafts are pretty easy to deal with, I almost think they are easier then a horizontal shaft engine, you just remove the blade, attach a weight to act like a harmonic balancer (large metal disk that weighs about the same as the blade did) and add a pulley to the output shaft, they make them to bolt on, and cut a hole in the top of the mower deck and drop in an alternator, find the right length belt and you have a 12 volt 1kW generator, and about the speed control, yes its important like Medved pointed out, engine speed  will affect the output frequency of a mains voltage type alternator, which is why I suggested using an automotive style alternator they output DC so the engine speed doesn't matter, then use an  inverter which will do the rest of the work to control the frequency and voltage output. If you go with a smaller light like 70 watt HPS with the correct pulley sizes you can run the engine at pretty much idle so they are quieter and consume less fuel and then speed them up if you go with a high wattage lamp, also on the plus side you can run small power tools, charge batteries, boost a car with ease, run a plug in cooler, power a TV or a radio, or run a sump pump at the same time as you run your light/s..   

And about Medved's post on the Li-ions, that was to address Ash's post on using a long sting of batteries in series to output a much higher voltage, while you can do this, and they are light and very nice when set up and working correctly, it's nothing short of a designers nightmare to get it right and last a long time..

About the automotive Alternator, If you go with a single wire unit they will have a built in regulator, some might have two wires, one wire is power and one is to power the idiot light on the dash telling you there is a problem, if they have more wires odds are good they need an external alternator hit the junk yard and see what cars they have and use google it will tell you what style the alternator is and the amperage, normally I just hit older GM trucks they are simple to remove and you can get replacement bearings and brushes with a single / dual wire output and they are pretty common so if you need to replace one you can find one and then you don't have to change anything on the engine or drill new holes..   

About the operating costs, yes gas is expensive and grid supplied power is cheaper, but the setup costs with batteries and replacement batteries adds up, and for a small load like you looking at and long run times a used as engine and used alternator with an inverter is cheaper to build, has more versatility but it will cost more per hour to run, I could power a 1000W HPS right now for 12 hours and it would cost me about $6 USD in fuel vs about $1.50 in power, but I can refuel in 1 minute vs 12 hours of recharging a battery, and if there is a major power outage I can find fuel and not worry about a dead battery, and I can also put some of that regular unleaded in a coleman lantern without fear (in fact it's all I run in them) so I always have light.. 
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #22 on: July 12, 2017, 08:56:37 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
About the lawnmower idea vertical shafts are pretty easy to deal with, I almost think they are easier then a horizontal shaft engine, you just remove the blade, attach a weight to act like a harmonic balancer (large metal disk that weighs about the same as the blade did) and add a pulley to the output shaft, they make them to bolt on, and cut a hole in the top of the mower deck and drop in an alternator, find the right length belt and you have a 12 volt 1kW generator, and about the speed control, yes its important like Medved pointed out, engine speed  will affect the output frequency of a mains voltage type alternator, which is why I suggested using an automotive style alternator they output DC so the engine speed doesn't matter, then use an  inverter which will do the rest of the work to control the frequency and voltage output. If you go with a smaller light like 70 watt HPS with the correct pulley sizes you can run the engine at pretty much idle so they are quieter and consume less fuel and then speed them up if you go with a high wattage lamp, also on the plus side you can run small power tools, charge batteries, boost a car with ease, run a plug in cooler, power a TV or a radio, or run a sump pump at the same time as you run your light/s..   

And about Medved's post on the Li-ions, that was to address Ash's post on using a long sting of batteries in series to output a much higher voltage, while you can do this, and they are light and very nice when set up and working correctly, it's nothing short of a designers nightmare to get it right and last a long time..

About the automotive Alternator, If you go with a single wire unit they will have a built in regulator, some might have two wires, one wire is power and one is to power the idiot light on the dash telling you there is a problem, if they have more wires odds are good they need an external alternator hit the junk yard and see what cars they have and use google it will tell you what style the alternator is and the amperage, normally I just hit older GM trucks they are simple to remove and you can get replacement bearings and brushes with a single / dual wire output and they are pretty common so if you need to replace one you can find one and then you don't have to change anything on the engine or drill new holes..   

About the operating costs, yes gas is expensive and grid supplied power is cheaper, but the setup costs with batteries and replacement batteries adds up, and for a small load like you looking at and long run times a used as engine and used alternator with an inverter is cheaper to build, has more versatility but it will cost more per hour to run, I could power a 1000W HPS right now for 12 hours and it would cost me about $6 USD in fuel vs about $1.50 in power, but I can refuel in 1 minute vs 12 hours of recharging a battery, and if there is a major power outage I can find fuel and not worry about a dead battery, and I can also put some of that regular unleaded in a coleman lantern without fear (in fact it's all I run in them) so I always have light.. 

Alright, well i think i'll go with the lawnmower genny then, i need to go to the junkyard over the weekend, i will look for GM trucks, and i'll probably pull several alternators, that way if one does not work i have another, as for the lawnmower engine.... i still need to look for one... I'm not too trusting of the ones laying in the junkyard, i lack skills to repair one and i dont wanna be walking down the street with a scavenged lawnmower from a junkyard... I do have other places that i can go for one though, yard sales like you've mentioned , or possibly my work may have one, as for the pulley and belt, those are going to be hard for me to find, could i possibly use a bike chain instead? maybe figure out some other way to put weight on the motor and just use a bike chain assembly? that is easier for me to obtain, but i dont know if it is a good idea.
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #23 on: July 12, 2017, 10:04:45 PM » Author: Lodge
Do you have access to a welder? The flywheel (weight) could be something as simple as a small disc brake rotor, they are round heavy and smooth, and for the most part pretty well balanced, and junk yards sell them cheap.. And repairing a small lawnmower is not that hard, honestly most I've seen start up with ease once you drain the old fuel, clean the crud out of the tank, clean the spark plug and refuel them with fresh gas, people like to leave gas in them over winter, if you do your asking for trouble especially if the gas has ethanol added to it (most gas does) when spring comes around they don't start. This causes people to throw them away because like you they think they can't fix them,and taking them to a shop is just as much as buying a new one from walmart, when all you need is a spark, fuel and air that's all that it takes. 

Then the odd one needs the carb bowl removed and clean the gum out with a little bit of carb cleaner, normally a single screw in the bottom of the bowl, or the odd small gasket like the one around the carb bowl to stop air leaks, or worst I've had to replace the flapper valve (takes about 10 min and coffee change) really they are pretty simple machines, to tell if it works just give them a pull see if feels like a good lawnmower (hit up a home depot and give a few new ones a pull to learn how it should feel if you don't have one at home, and if you do, whatever you do, DON'T use that one because your parents will be less then impressed, even if it works.)

In the junk yard finds I would recommend pulling the spark plug and use a flashlight to see if every thing looks clean on what ever you find, and pull the rope slowly and make sure every thing is moving (watch your eyes, sometimes stuff sprays out of them, normally I will give it a good pull away from my face then go looking in it), and depending on the junk yard if you find it with fuel in it try and start it up, the worst is you leave it behind if it doesn't start... 

About the alternator, look at all the trucks first before you pull anything, and remember where the cleanest newest ones are and go after those ones first, I've found ones that look brand new before and aim for the highest amperage ones (really use google or rockauto's website to see the AMP ratings) and take a good chunk of the wiring harness with you, it's nice heavy copper and will be made with the correct size connectors/plugs and normally it goes right to the battery so it's easy to pull out as they are only a few feet long, and check the headlight sometimes you get lucky and they have aftermarket HID kits in them, and if you see any older Cadillacs like from the 2000;s check the front grill, some contain a thermal image camera (really) and they have analog outputs so you can plug them right in a simple tv, and then you can see how hot things like ballasts or light fixtures are running, also great for trouble shooting breaker panels...   
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #24 on: July 13, 2017, 01:23:08 AM » Author: Medved
Then i can just replace the resistor to higher value, it will take a second more to start...

With SMPS is there need in such discharge circuit ? The SMPS alone still works (or atleast tries to) downto <50V, how long would it take do deplete a capacitor even when it is without load on the SMPS output ?

The standard requires tha even in off/no load condition, when the power consumption uses to be very small these days and it is supplied from the main filter tank electrolytic for minutes. Only the  it will discharge the filter and that is way too long.

With the resistor replacement it works only if higher value resistor is possible there. Many controllers use high voltage JFET there, then the current is dictated by that JFET. And their design very frequently counts on the higher startup current available from that JFET, so wont start if you limit it. Or Ive seen ICs that use the same input for the mains undervoltage detection. There any resistor will make the chip thinking there is an undervoltage and do not start either. Designers try to combine all these functions into one pin first because it is cheaper (just one pin with a single 700V transistor, which tend to be huge in relation of the other 5 or 30V rated components on thecontroller IC die, second it saves power, as it is able to switch OFF the undervoltage detection divider once not needed and 3rd it saves valuable board space because externally you have just one pin and two common diodes for all three functions. The restriction to AC only is not assumed as any real restriction, to justify giving up such functionality.
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #25 on: July 13, 2017, 01:33:57 AM » Author: Medved
Lawnmower engine flywheel: I think it is not needed to use explicit flywheel there, as the mass of a larger pulley would beenough.
The problem is, in anycase you need to have thing perfectly balanced, otherwise it will either fall apart, or at least prematurely wear the shaft bearing (or its housing; that would mean effectively killing the engine). Andheavier the thing, more difficult is to balance it well (although heavier flywheel makes mainly the starts easier).
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #26 on: July 13, 2017, 05:09:52 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
Do you have access to a welder? The flywheel (weight) could be something as simple as a small disc brake rotor, they are round heavy and smooth, and for the most part pretty well balanced, and junk yards sell them cheap.. And repairing a small lawnmower is not that hard, honestly most I've seen start up with ease once you drain the old fuel, clean the crud out of the tank, clean the spark plug and refuel them with fresh gas, people like to leave gas in them over winter, if you do your asking for trouble especially if the gas has ethanol added to it (most gas does) when spring comes around they don't start. This causes people to throw them away because like you they think they can't fix them,and taking them to a shop is just as much as buying a new one from walmart, when all you need is a spark, fuel and air that's all that it takes. 

Then the odd one needs the carb bowl removed and clean the gum out with a little bit of carb cleaner, normally a single screw in the bottom of the bowl, or the odd small gasket like the one around the carb bowl to stop air leaks, or worst I've had to replace the flapper valve (takes about 10 min and coffee change) really they are pretty simple machines, to tell if it works just give them a pull see if feels like a good lawnmower (hit up a home depot and give a few new ones a pull to learn how it should feel if you don't have one at home, and if you do, whatever you do, DON'T use that one because your parents will be less then impressed, even if it works.)

In the junk yard finds I would recommend pulling the spark plug and use a flashlight to see if every thing looks clean on what ever you find, and pull the rope slowly and make sure every thing is moving (watch your eyes, sometimes stuff sprays out of them, normally I will give it a good pull away from my face then go looking in it), and depending on the junk yard if you find it with fuel in it try and start it up, the worst is you leave it behind if it doesn't start... 

About the alternator, look at all the trucks first before you pull anything, and remember where the cleanest newest ones are and go after those ones first, I've found ones that look brand new before and aim for the highest amperage ones (really use google or rockauto's website to see the AMP ratings) and take a good chunk of the wiring harness with you, it's nice heavy copper and will be made with the correct size connectors/plugs and normally it goes right to the battery so it's easy to pull out as they are only a few feet long, and check the headlight sometimes you get lucky and they have aftermarket HID kits in them, and if you see any older Cadillacs like from the 2000;s check the front grill, some contain a thermal image camera (really) and they have analog outputs so you can plug them right in a simple tv, and then you can see how hot things like ballasts or light fixtures are running, also great for trouble shooting breaker panels...   
Yes i have access to a welder, also never knew thermal imaging cameras were a thing in cars like that, also never thought to look for HID kits in cars at the junkyard, defiantly will keep a better eye out, also yeah, I am starting to learn how easy older engines are, at work today we were working on an old tractor from the 50's, how are alternators mounted though, bolts, screws? something else? also would an RV perhaps have a higher amperage alternator? or a schoolbus?
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #27 on: July 13, 2017, 06:27:51 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
thoughts on this inverter?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Electric-2000-4000-Watt-Power-Inverter-/322588145415

I did search up the inverters you mentioned lodge but was confused by the results, I do like this one because it is small, has indicators and is not flashy or weirdly designed like some of the other things out there:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Energizer-EN2000-2000-Watt-Power-Inverter/1908010962?iid=271246619761
Gross...
just... yeah no.
 (I don't like building with things that aren't roughly box shaped, it just makes things harder to mount/fit for one and two it is hard to deal with looking at something that looks like a giant Tylenol with legs and blue eyes or some animal that obviously ate too much for its own good, IDK think of a better description if you must, but those  are what i can think of...

I like my stuff utilitarian, and simple, this is why i hate alot of modern cars, well that and they prettymuch all started to look the same to me after 2014 and not in a way (I'd) consider attractive, also why i dont care for alot of modern electronics, like those new smart TV things... they lack alot of the connections that are useful to me, and they have a weird form so they take up more space than their counterparts (or past counterparts IDK if they killed off normal TV's) I also hate cloud storage and societies idea of Modern/Futuristic... ahhhhh. some accuse me of not liking change. maybe thats the case, i cant tell to be honest

Anyway, sorry for the rant try to focus more on what i typed before all that, that was the original question... then my mind kinda trailed off  ;D ;D ;D

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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #28 on: July 13, 2017, 06:28:41 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
thoughts on this inverter?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chicago-Electric-2000-4000-Watt-Power-Inverter-/322588145415

I did search up the inverters you mentioned lodge but was confused by the results (different ratings, wattages, shapes and sizes ect), I do like the one in the previous link because it is small, has indicators and is not flashy or weirdly designed like some of the other things out there:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Energizer-EN2000-2000-Watt-Power-Inverter/1908010962?iid=271246619761
Gross...
just... yeah no.
 (I don't like building with things that aren't roughly box shaped), it just makes things harder to mount/fit for one and two it is hard to deal with looking at something that looks like a giant Tylenol with legs and blue eyes or some animal that obviously ate too much for its own good, IDK think of a better description if you must, but those  are what i can think of lol...

I like my stuff utilitarian, and simple, this is why i hate alot of modern cars, well that and they prettymuch all started to look the same to me after 2014 and not in a way (I'd) consider attractive, also why i dont care for alot of modern electronics, like those new smart TV things... they lack alot of the connections that are useful to me, and they have a weird form so they take up more space than their counterparts (or past counterparts IDK if they killed off normal TV's) I also hate cloud storage and societies idea of Modern/Futuristic... ahhhhh. some accuse me of not liking change. maybe thats the case, i cant tell to be honest

Anyway, sorry for the rant try to focus more on what i typed before all that, that was the original question... then my mind kinda trailed off  ;D ;D ;D


« Last Edit: July 13, 2017, 06:31:01 PM by HomeBrewLamps » Logged

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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #29 on: July 13, 2017, 07:27:38 PM » Author: Lodge
Lawnmower engine flywheel: I think it is not needed to use explicit flywheel there, as the mass of a larger pulley would beenough.
The problem is, in anycase you need to have thing perfectly balanced, otherwise it will either fall apart, or at least prematurely wear the shaft bearing (or its housing; that would mean effectively killing the engine). Andheavier the thing, more difficult is to balance it well (although heavier flywheel makes mainly the starts easier).

The problem with a single cylinder 4 stroke is you have to have enough momentum to carry the load through the time the cylinder is not firing so that's 3 out of the four stokes, and the alternator is also loading the engine while this is happening, but your right you don't need a whole lot of weight just about the same as the lawnmower blade, I just though a brake rotor because they are not to heavy if you find a dodge neon or something, they are round, pre-drilled and basically balanced, with no sharp edges and cooling fins to move air, and they are cheap and plentiful, but if he can find a cast iron pulley that would be ideal because it's a two in one then he's got a flywheel and a pulley rotor combo, but if not the balancing of them isn't to bad just stack the pulley and the rotor and I just use a simple lawnmower balancing cone, but you can use a funnel, or what ever works and stick a long nail in the vice and use a bubble level and play with it, once its perfect you tack weld it, then weld it completely and balance it again by adding dots of welds, or a grind them off if you add to much to make it sit perfectly level.. It might not be 100 % perfect but its close enough for running at 3600 RPM and below, and I would also test them with a corded drill just to see how they feel before spinning them up at full speed, but if you need them perfect just use the cone and a very fine point and spirit levels and paint, that's how they do propellers for air-crafts..     
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