Author Topic: LPS or HPS flashlight?  (Read 16960 times)
Lodge
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #45 on: July 15, 2017, 10:00:38 PM » Author: Lodge
If you can find one like those on that site, it's easier since they have a built in regulator, other wise if you use the one you picked up you'll need to go back and get the regulator or build one for it.. And if your keeping it, your should take it to autozone anyhow and let them test it (it's free) and make sure it works, and just saying you could list it on kijiji for a few bucks and get the money for a pulley or a belt you'll need to drive it...
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #46 on: July 16, 2017, 12:47:58 AM » Author: Medved
The alternator you got nrrds an external regulator. It should be in the vehicle where you have got the alternator.

Or you may build your own regulator, it is not thar much complex electronic. When choosing the circuit, you need to know few things about the alternator:
- Its wiring diagram (that says, whether it is a 6 or 9 diode breed, whether the excitation winding is 6V or 12V (regulator and excitation is supplied from the center of the start winding and operates at half of the battery voltage; most common with 24V systems, but it could have been  used with 12V as well),...
- whether the excitation connection is connected to the power or auxiliary rectifier output and/or grounded.

The easiest are the 9 diode alternators, because you don't need any power switches do prevent the battery from draining when not in use (the diodes do it for you in the power path, you suffice with only the indicator/priming lamp 100mA switch).
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #47 on: July 16, 2017, 01:29:23 AM » Author: Lodge
Here is the factory diagram ( I'm assuming the RV had a Dodge 440 engine in it )

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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #48 on: July 16, 2017, 01:53:29 AM » Author: Lodge
After looking at Rockauto the external voltage regulator's are not worth the effort to build one, a brand new unit is just over $5 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1975,d100+pickup,7.2l+440cid+v8,1083844,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884 They have a picture if you going back the junk yard to see what they look like as well..
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #49 on: July 16, 2017, 03:37:08 AM » Author: Medved
This is what I call "6 diode design" (the two diodes on the stator center are doing nothing at all, wonder why they are there at all, maybe except some redundancy).
For this you need a power switch between the battery positive wire and the regulator, designed for the full excitation current (uses to be about 3..5A). Plus any voltage drop on it causes voltage regulation error (it is the feedback path), so that switch should be some well made one.

With this star design you have one more possibility to reduce the stator losses at high load: Reconnect the stator to Delta. The current in each phase will drop, so arethe losses. The drawback (why it is not connected that way in thefirst place) is the higher minimum rpm, but that is a limitation in the car (output power at idling engine), not on a genset with narrow rpm range and mainly at high load (lighting). The no load losses will be higher as well (hysteretic plus eddy currents in the stator core), but with expected application (power light source) operating mostly on high load the benefit from the lower winding losses will be stronger.

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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #50 on: July 17, 2017, 04:37:26 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
hopefully i can get to the junkyard this weekend and find those trucks you were talking about lodge, during the week i cant really go due to work. also as for the alternator i currently got, i will shelf it for now, i will try to go back for the regulator just so i have it on hand just in case i want to use this guy, there was another RV there.... could i perhaps take the alternator from that one aswell and have them in series for combined output? or would that put too much strees on the engine and or be too complicated?


also i will try to get tyhe alternator tested at some point, theres an autozone nearby.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2017, 04:43:42 PM by HomeBrewLamps » Logged

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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #51 on: July 17, 2017, 07:05:57 PM » Author: Lodge
You could do two, but it adds weight and belt issues, but it can be done (either dual belts, one for each or an idler pulley to allow for the belt to properly contact the pulley, ideally you want to have about half the pulley covered by a belt or they will slip and smoke destroying the belt )

About the RV's while lots of people think they might have a bigger alternator, most don't, because all the larger electrical loads are driven by a portable generator, and most RV's aren't full of power hungry devices found in luxury automobiles like heated seats, dual fans for climate controls and electric defrosting / defogging windows and mirrors, so they tend to get much larger alternators (some are over 200 amps)

And if the autozone is not busy it only takes them like five minutes to test them, they have a motor to spin it up and all the plug in's to hook it up to the computer for testing, and they can full field test it right to the maximum amps and let you know what kind of power it outputs (they just apply 12 volts to the field and see what it can do, but you don't want to run them this way as the voltage can get much higher then 12 volts if something happens and they will smoke stuff... 
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #52 on: July 17, 2017, 07:09:34 PM » Author: wattMaster
I have an idea, how about just using a portable generator with a long extension cord?
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #53 on: July 17, 2017, 08:21:58 PM » Author: Lodge
Ya, but that's to easy and if you can find free or real cheap parts why not build one of these, anyone can drive to walmart and buy a power-it generator,  the learning that goes along with this can be applied in other areas, you'll notice both Medved and me are not just handing it to him on a sliver spoon with drawings and designed circuits, he has to learn something and truly make it his own design, you'll notice, lots of this way is easier but you can go that way, he gets to decide but in the end if someone is really stuck we'll figure it out for them and show them the way to do it, plus I could build one of these from dumpster diving and scrap parts for under $30 and I haven't seen to many 1 kW pure sine wave inverter generators for $30..
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #54 on: July 17, 2017, 08:46:44 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
I have an idea, how about just using a portable generator with a long extension cord?
ehhh 1) I'm too much of a cheapskate for that and 2) whats the fun in that lol, yeah i could get everything working, buut, it would not be customizable, i cannot attach a light pole to it... atleast not with the tools i have access to, i'm not learning anything from just buying a genny, and i get little satisfaction out of something simply bought, I'm more willing to use something created by me, than something made by a company, also, i hate wallmart lmao  ;D

Also, I had misjudged my parents attitudes (i deleted my previous posts about that) so im all good to continue with this.... the only thing in my way is my motivation to do this, the pulley and belt is whats scaring me at the moment...
« Last Edit: July 17, 2017, 10:40:13 PM by HomeBrewLamps » Logged

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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #55 on: July 22, 2017, 03:23:16 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
The problem with a single cylinder 4 stroke is you have to have enough momentum to carry the load through the time the cylinder is not firing so that's 3 out of the four stokes, and the alternator is also loading the engine while this is happening, but your right you don't need a whole lot of weight just about the same as the lawnmower blade, I just though a brake rotor because they are not to heavy if you find a dodge neon or something, they are round, pre-drilled and basically balanced, with no sharp edges and cooling fins to move air, and they are cheap and plentiful, but if he can find a cast iron pulley that would be ideal because it's a two in one then he's got a flywheel and a pulley rotor combo, but if not the balancing of them isn't to bad just stack the pulley and the rotor and I just use a simple lawnmower balancing cone, but you can use a funnel, or what ever works and stick a long nail in the vice and use a bubble level and play with it, once its perfect you tack weld it, then weld it completely and balance it again by adding dots of welds, or a grind them off if you add to much to make it sit perfectly level.. It might not be 100 % perfect but its close enough for running at 3600 RPM and below, and I would also test them with a corded drill just to see how they feel before spinning them up at full speed, but if you need them perfect just use the cone and a very fine point and spirit levels and paint, that's how they do propellers for air-crafts..    

this what you meant lodge?
i grabbed two.... theres a huge pile of them ...
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #56 on: July 22, 2017, 10:53:06 PM » Author: Lodge
Yep, where they on the smaller size from that huge pile, you don't need huge rotors, sorry it's really hard to tell from that picture how big they are..
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #57 on: July 22, 2017, 11:06:03 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
one sec... i will take another pic for scale because tbh im not sure
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #58 on: July 22, 2017, 11:12:02 PM » Author: HomeBrewLamps
thats all i had nearby ... hope that helps
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Re: LPS or HPS flashlight? « Reply #59 on: July 23, 2017, 12:02:34 AM » Author: Lodge
Those should work, they are just for weight, now to clean them for welding, do you have a chunk of something scrap iron ( it doesn't matter what it is, it just has to be iron so it could be a few large nails, or even one of the rotors, basically anything heavy will work)  that your willing to sacrifice ? it takes a day or two but it's way easier then scraping or sanding, to do it the easy way you need a plastic bucket or pail or Rubbermaid container, a small 6 or 12 volt DC plug in adapter only like an amp or two is good, a few feet of wire, a few gallons of water and scoop of washing soda like Arm & Hammer, all you need to do is fill the pail with enough water to cover both the scrap iron piece and the rotor, add a scoop or two of the washing soda, and stir, now twist the positive wire around the scrap piece, make sure it has a good contact with the metal, you might have to sand it, then drop it in the water, now place a few pieces of plastic like few bic pens to electrically insulate it from the rotor your going to be placing on top of it, and then hook the rotor up to the negative wire and drop it in the water, making sure it's not touching the stuff connected to the positive wire,  now dry your hands and plug it in, you should see bubbles start to form, and you will have to turn the rotor over in 12 to 24 hours to clean both sides, but now you can walk away and give it a day or two, maybe three, and you'll have a nice shiny clean rotor.. And remember to unplug it before sticking your hands in the water..

Now knowing you have parents I would suggest doing this outside, the water will go rust brown, it will discolor things if spilled so do it on the grass, it won't harm the grass and if you spill some the grass will grow and it'll be gone in a week.. And if your mom has any old rusty Cast iron pans this works wonders, offer to clean it for her, or if your dad has any old rusty tools do the same, if you help out around the house they will let you do more of this kind of stuff, really, and your not working harder, just smarter..

How this works, and it will clean anything iron, is basic electrolysis and your using power to move iron, it's a lot like chrome plating only backwards.. and the iron scrap on the positive will go brown and black with severe rusting happening, and if you use copper wire it will go green and blue, but the piece on the rotor your cleaning will stay clean..

Those alligator clips are also nice for this as they apply constant pressure so they maintain a good contact, but make sure the one on the positive wire is disposable, because it will rust real bad, so don't use the one attached to a battery charger unless you feel like replacing it in a few days..    
« Last Edit: July 23, 2017, 12:05:47 AM by Lodge » Logged
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