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Ott-Lite 40w T-10

Ott-Lite 40w T-10

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Like Dieselnut, I also have a few of these.

PC190002.JPG PC190004.JPG PC190005.JPG PC190008.JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Philips
Model Reference:F40T10/SOL
Lamp
Lamp Type:Fluorescent
Base:Medium Bipin
Shape/Finish:T-10
Service Life:33,000 hours
Electrical
Wattage:40w
Current:425 ma
Optical
Lumen Output:about 2500-2800
Color Temperature:5900K
Color Rendering Index:90
Physical/Production
Dimensions:48 nominal inches
Factory Location:Fairmont, WV, USA
Fabrication Date:1994

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:PC190005.JPG
Album name:silverliner / Fluorescent - T-12 and larger
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:50 KB
Date added:Feb 23, 2010
Dimensions:1024 x 768 pixels
Displayed:393 times
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dor123
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Feb 24, 2010 at 03:03 AM Author: dor123
I have heard from the past but i don't remember where, that these cathode radiation shields, such in this lamp, are made from Lead and cause radioactive radiation which can cause cancer. Is this is true?

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

rjluna2
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Feb 24, 2010 at 05:29 AM Author: rjluna2
It doesn't have enough power to create soft X-ray radation. You need to have thousands volts to create soft x-ray radation...

It suppose to reduce cathode sputtering on the glass wall...

Pretty, please no more Chinese failure.

dor123
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Feb 24, 2010 at 06:45 AM Author: dor123
I mean that the cathode radiation shields itself produce radioactive radiation because they are made from Lead. They can't reduce cathode sputtering as they are located outside the tube.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

Silverliner
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Feb 24, 2010 at 12:43 PM Author: Silverliner
I'm not sure what these shields are made from. Lead sounds scary.

May all the great lighting technologies have their place in history.

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jonathon.graves johng917 GeorgiaJohn
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Feb 24, 2010 at 12:54 PM Author: DieselNut
I have one near EOL. I was thinking of scratching the stuff off and see what it is like. If it is lead, maybe better not, huh? Mine are around 5000k color and must have a 90s CRI. Seem to be good quality lamps, but the "tape" on the ends is mysterious.

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!

vintagefluorescent
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Feb 24, 2010 at 01:00 PM Author: vintagefluorescent
Does Looks like lead , They have a 1-800 # on the bulb, You can call`m, ask`m,

They sell that type material at the hardware stores to fold up around the vent pipes on roofs

I`ve seen alot of it.
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Feb 24, 2010 at 05:48 PM Author: Silverliner
If you have seen a Philips T-10, then you have already seen the ends of the Ott-Lites. Philips made them for Ott.

May all the great lighting technologies have their place in history.

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Feb 25, 2010 at 02:26 PM Author: gailgrove
Even better heres there web site http://www.ottlite.com/

Say no to Induction & LED, HID forever!

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Feb 25, 2010 at 05:22 PM Author: icefoglights
Lead is not radioactive, but it can be toxic.

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Feb 25, 2010 at 07:01 PM Author: jercar954
Contact the manufacturer and request a MSDS (material safety data sheet) on this lamp. They should oblige.

Preheat and T-12 fluorescents forever! Down with LED's and instant start T-8 fluorescents.

Patrick
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Feb 25, 2010 at 08:25 PM Author: Patrick
Lead is a radiation shield. That's why you wear a lead apron when they take an x-ray at the dentist. Of course, fluorescent lamps don't emit ionizing radiation, so there would be no need for a radiation shield. I wonder if it facilitates starting on an RS ballast (preventing the problem where you have to touch the tube for it to light)?

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Feb 25, 2010 at 09:06 PM Author: icefoglights
My thought is that they could be there to prevent heat losses at the ends, similar to the foil wraps on the ends of certain HPS tubes.

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Feb 25, 2010 at 09:18 PM Author: SeanB~1
The most commonly used material in those X-ray shields is actually depleted Uranium, it is a better absorber of X rays, as it is denser.
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Feb 25, 2010 at 10:10 PM Author: don93s
It's been said that fluorescents still emit low levels of some kind of radiation; not exactly sure what kind...EMF, etc, but some claim that even these harmless levels can have certain effects on sensitive people. Could also be a marketing ploy.
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Feb 25, 2010 at 11:57 PM Author: dor123
don93s: The radiation you are refers about is a tiny amout of UVA.
Regarding of the CRI and the Phosphors: DieselNut said that his lamp is similar to this lamp but with a CRI of 90 and CCT of 5000K. From this i think his lamp uses the antique "Deluxe white" Halophosphors, which considered completely obsolate when the Triphosphors invented, because they reach only 30 LPW (No more than the antique Beryliums). Even the modern 9x% CRI Triphospors is not as efficient (Only 50-60 lpw).
icefoglights: These are not a heat reflecting coating. Fluorescents doesn't require thermal isulation. More then all trying to use a heat reflecting coating around the electrodes may cause the lamp to lose efficiency and to be more sensitive to high temprature.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

Silverliner
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Feb 26, 2010 at 03:00 AM Author: Silverliner
@Dor123 if I recall correctly the 5000K T-10s that DieselNut has is a super bright version, which means it may have triphosphors. I'm sure mine have halophosphates blended with additonal rare earth materials for a high CRI.

May all the great lighting technologies have their place in history.

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Feb 26, 2010 at 03:59 AM Author: dor123
If DieselNut's T-10 5000K lamp are bright, his lamp has a triphosphor coating and must be of 865 color in order to do bright, efficient and high CRI together. A standart 8xx triphosphor coating can't make 5000K color light, and although high CRI 9xx triphosphors can did this, their efficiency is only 50-60 lpw and therefore less bright. Also the high CRI halophosphates blended with additional rare earth materials you noted is exactly the antique "Deluxe white" phosphors that can't be such bright because their efficiency is only 30 lpw.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

DieselNut
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jonathon.graves johng917 GeorgiaJohn
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Feb 26, 2010 at 11:17 AM Author: DieselNut
This is more of something between 5000k and 6500k, but is brighter appearing than other 6500k and 5000k T12 lamps i have.

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!

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Feb 26, 2010 at 12:24 PM Author: Silverliner
30 lumens per watt? Where did you hear that? Even the very dim "Incandescent Fluorescent" gets 40 lumens per watt in the F40T12 size. Ott-Lite F40s are more like 60 lumens per watt with the high CRI "deluxe" phosphors. Ordinary halophosphates get around 75, triphosphors get around 80 (in the 70 and 80 CRI ranges).

May all the great lighting technologies have their place in history.

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Feb 26, 2010 at 12:43 PM Author: DieselNut
Silverliner, don't these seem to be around the 5000k color temp and around 90ish CRI? They also seem brighter than a standard T12, more along the lines of most T10s I have seen. They are expensive and do seem bright with good color rendering, so something they are using in them must make them "special"!

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!





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Feb 26, 2010 at 02:30 PM Author:
Think they are brighter because of them being T10 instead of T12
Silverliner
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Feb 28, 2010 at 12:16 AM Author: Silverliner
Last night I checked the spectrum of the Ott-Lite T-10s with a spectroscope. They have ordinary deluxe halophosphates similar in spectrum to the regular Duro-Test Vita-Lites and other high CRI/high color temp lamps. So RCM is right the increased brightness is from the smaller T-10 envelope.

May all the great lighting technologies have their place in history.

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Feb 28, 2010 at 09:06 PM Author: arcblue
I have an Ott-Lite of the newer variety, T12 without the radiation guards, and I have to say I prefer the VitaLite's colour.

I remember when these lamps were sold and I read that the metal end shields were designed to block cathode radiation. I think it's really overkill but I came across a light box where the tube ends (standard daylight tubes) were covered with metal shields that were grounded to the fixture. If you use fluorescents as SAD therapy lights where the light is a few inches from your face, then I suppose it's a good idea to reduce as much EMF as you can.

I'm lampin...

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Feb 28, 2010 at 09:55 PM Author: icefoglights
I just dug one of my old Ott-Lite T12s out and it's box does say "Radiation Shielded." However mine are the T12 type and do not have the foil wrapped ends.

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Feb 22, 2012 at 08:22 PM Author: DaveMan
I remember finding some lamps like this at an estate sale with Jeremiah J-Frog. They were 4 foot T10 lamps with the shield tape around either end and they were about the right color to be Ott Lite lamps (they appeared to be 5000K) although I don't remember seeing an etch on them.

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Feb 22, 2012 at 08:57 PM Author: J-Frog
They are the same lamps as the one shown, made by Philips with Westy electrodes like the one shown, but no etch. For fun, I removed the lead shields from a few to see the end blackening and reveal the Philips date code.

Jeremiah The Bullfrog

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Feb 22, 2012 at 10:04 PM Author: DieselNut
I have one of these that is EOL and the blackening shows beyond the tape stuff! It will still light if I short across the pins until the starter closes and heats the other end. I need to dig that thing out and scratch the "shield" off it.

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
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Feb 22, 2012 at 10:45 PM Author: J-Frog
The shield has to be peeled off, start at the seam and you can work the edge up and go from there, and then afterwards the hardened glue needs to be scraped off, I recommend Goof-Off.

Jeremiah The Bullfrog

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