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Advance magnetic F40T12 ballast

Advance magnetic F40T12 ballast

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These two-lamp magnetic rapid-start ballasts were the mainstay of commercial lighting and seemed pretty bulletproof. A number of my Lithonia strip lights came with these installed. The bad things about them is if the lamps are dirty they have trouble starting the lamps and they don't run the lamps quite at full power.

GE_watchdog.jpg GE_starter.jpg Advance_ballast.jpg LOA_T8_ballast.jpg

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Filename:Advance_ballast.jpg
Album name:arcblue / Ballasts and ignitors
Keywords:Gear
File Size:114 KB
Date added:Oct 08, 2006
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Oct 08, 2006 at 12:12 PM Author:
Sounds like the high voltage coils are shorted
Silverliner
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Verd a ray classic.


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Oct 08, 2006 at 02:35 PM Author: Silverliner
Advance and most all magnetic rapid start ballasts are junk. Did you know that they run much hotter than the old preheat ballasts and the newer electronic ballasts?

BTW I recall quite a few T-12 electronic ballasts used in supermarkets back in the early 1990s. I havent seen one in eons because T-8 wiped them out.

May all the great lighting technologies have their place in history.

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Oct 08, 2006 at 06:00 PM Author: don93s
Those Advance "Mark III" ballasts from the mid 80's are a real nightmare. I installed a bunch of fixtures at work and half of them were dimmer than usual...so I measured lamp current and the dimmest ones ran at 150 ma...no joke... and the mediocre ones were 290 to 320 ma while the brighter ones were 390 to 420 ma. All were rated at .73 amp line current on the label. I also used an ohm-meter to see if caps were shorted but none were.

All these ballasts (40 of them) were dated June '85 and the output levels were all over the map. The newer ballasts from the 90's seem a little more consistent though.

As far as starting...if the humidity is high, forget about it. I see rapid-start ballasts from 1960 all the way to present have problems starting in humid conditions, or lamps not close enough to metal reflector.

Generally all 2-40w rapid start ballasts put out about 280 volts open voltage at 120v line which still doesn't seem enough but below 270v will be a real problem for starting.
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Oct 08, 2006 at 09:14 PM Author: J-Frog
I installed one of those Advance electronic F40T12 ballasts in the light in my parents garage. It is series wired with end of lamp life cutout. However, I like the GE Proline F40 electronic better as lamps are parallel wired(if one goes out, other stays lit) and has no end of life cutout either so I can watch the bad lamps die!(T12's don't need that feature anyways...)

Jeremiah The Bullfrog





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Oct 08, 2006 at 09:17 PM Author:
Watching F32T8's die is funner than watching T12's because T12's don't do anything when they die they just shut off now if it was a magnetic T12 ballast dying thats a different story
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Oct 08, 2006 at 09:24 PM Author: J-Frog
My electronic ballast doesn't shut them down however! They go through stages of glowing dimly and flickering with the orange at the end! I'm looking for a bad newer F40 so I can see if this ballast will make it lose vaccum. The theatre I used to work at has plenty of bad F40's sitting in a can, and they don't care if I take them. When I make a trip up there tomorrow to see my parents, I'll get some and bring them back for testing! The tubes in question are GE F40 K&B.

Jeremiah The Bullfrog





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Oct 08, 2006 at 09:26 PM Author:
Nice post pics and if you can post videos of them failing too
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Oct 08, 2006 at 09:27 PM Author: J-Frog
I will! Probably when I get back on Wed.

Jeremiah The Bullfrog





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Oct 09, 2006 at 02:24 AM Author:
DEfinitely a case of the newer ones being cr@p. The Harper ones I have that date from 1970-1985 will run on for almost forever, but the replacement ballasts last 2-3 years at best. It is actually cheaper to replace the entire fitting, as it is 50% ( fitting, 2 Phillips 36W triphosphor tubes) cheaper than just the ballast. A few have been converted by me from instant to rapid start, the fittings having appropriate metalwork to mount either ballast, with just minor rewiring needed on the one end to split the 2 holders. Often the same lamps go back after this, the ballast having being outlasted by the lamps. I do have around 2 instants that date from 1974, second ballast, fitting was installed in 1967.




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Oct 09, 2006 at 02:30 AM Author:
BTW, the tar leaking is unfortunately common, they all do it.......

Asto the buzzing, it is normally caused by magnetostriction inside the ballast, or by a slight unevenness between the ballast case and the fixture. There used to be a cure, an asbestos sheet under the case to damp it out, but not available anymore.
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Oct 09, 2006 at 08:45 AM Author: J-Frog
I had a dream about a F40T12 flashing orange on it's end and then losing vaccum on my GE Proline ballast....

Never had a buzzing F40 RS ballast, but have seen them ooze tar and continue to work...

Jeremiah The Bullfrog





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Oct 09, 2006 at 10:03 AM Author:
I've seen them ooze tar and the cap vents and they still work despite the fact that there is no cap in the circuit but if a lamp started rectifying it would definetly short the windings and cause the ballast to catch on fire and yes RS Ballasts do buzz a bit, Very, very annoying
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Oct 09, 2006 at 03:33 PM Author: J-Frog
Yeah my Universal that blew it's cap still lights lamps just fine. Maybe I'll try to dig it out of the casing and tar, and then let it rectify with a bad lamp and have a fan blowing across it . Or maybe I'll just remove the blown cap somehow...

Jeremiah The Bullfrog





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Oct 09, 2006 at 03:34 PM Author:
Yeah that sounds like a good idea be careful of the PCB's though
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