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Philips SL disassembled, part 2

Philips SL disassembled, part 2

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This picture shows another view of a disassembled SL18 lamp. Note that to remove the glass cover I had to break the plastic base. To remove the tube I had to bend the small piece of metal over the U shape of the tube

IMG_1793.JPG IMG_1772.JPG IMG_1770.JPG IMG_1657_resize.JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Philips
Model Reference:SL18D
Lamp
Lamp Type:Energy saving Lamp
Base:E27
Service Life:8000
Fixture
Ballast Type:Magnetic
Electrical
Wattage:18W
Voltage:220V
Optical
Lumen Output:850
Color Temperature:2700k
Color Rendering Index:>80
Physical/Production
Factory Location:Holland
Fabrication Date:1987

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:IMG_1772.JPG
Album name:Kappa7 / Philips SL
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:412 KB
Date added:Aug 13, 2011
Dimensions:1600 x 1200 pixels
Displayed:598 times
Date Time:2011:08:13 11:22:42
DateTime Original:2011:08:13 11:11:17
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Time:1/60 sec
FNumber:f 2.7
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:6.2 mm
ISO:160
Make:Canon
Model:Canon PowerShot A1000 IS
Software:ACD Systems Digital Imaging
White Balance:0
URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-57532
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tuopeek
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Tuopeek-475652085781113 tuopeek1 77334065@N05/
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Aug 13, 2011 at 06:20 AM Author: tuopeek
Brings back memories of dismantling these. Must be getting rare now. I always wanted to re-use the ballast but never came up with a good use. The paint seemed to become chalky and would come off on your hands.
Kappa7
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Aug 13, 2011 at 10:28 AM Author: Kappa7
In the nineties I dismounted too a lot of these. I reused with success some of the ballasts for small tubes like the T5 8W and 13W and for one PL-C of 18W. Yes the paint often was coming off but this was not a real problem for reusing it.
Made in Holland
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Jan 27, 2014 at 09:11 PM Author: Made in Holland
Why did you tear it apart
Kappa7
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Jan 27, 2014 at 09:21 PM Author: Kappa7
The tube was EOL
Medved
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Jan 28, 2014 at 02:54 AM Author: Medved
May you, please, show some details, how the glass bowl hold on the plastic?

No more selfballasted c***

BG101
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Brian TheTellyman
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Jan 28, 2014 at 03:35 AM Author: BG101
These snap on. I managed to get mine apart without cracking the plastic but it wasn't easy! Maybe warming it with a heat gun to soften it will help.

I was planning to put an alternative lamp in mine but unfortunately a relative (clumsy by nature) managed to knock it off the shelf above the stairs and it smashed the diffuser as well as the tube, which was heavily used but still working.

I still have the ballast and base, I have thought about using it for other lamps but don't know the specs for this ballast. I believe it was an SL-25 (Prismatic version), will have to dig it out and have a look.


BG

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Medved
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Jan 28, 2014 at 03:50 AM Author: Medved
The SL25 would correspond to F21T5, at least very alike, so about 0.22A into ~100V arc...

For the latches: What I'm looking for is some more detailed photo of them, to recognize how big, how many and where exactly they are. With this information I believe the disassembling will more likely to end up successfully (so possible to put back and then hold together... )

No more selfballasted c***

monkeyface
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Jan 28, 2014 at 04:32 AM Author: monkeyface
Much easier to take off the diffusor on SL* lamps with black bases as they are different to the newer ones.
BG101
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Brian TheTellyman
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Jan 28, 2014 at 05:57 AM Author: BG101
I just checked and unfortunately I appear to have disposed of the cap and base otherwise I could have photographed mine; however the stamp on the ballast is 25101 LA1 D9 26C (assuming by this I was right in my recollection that this is indeed a SL-25 ballast). That is great knowing it will run 21W T5s as I have been planning on making a batten for one of these (and an 80W version). The 21W can be a low profile fitting as the ballast is nice and compact .. but wider than a Fitzy mini lightpack.


BG

Say NO to DICTATORSHIP in the form of bulb/tube/ballast bans !!

Medved
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Jan 28, 2014 at 12:18 PM Author: Medved
Just check the current, I may be wrong, it was only a guess based just on an assumption Philips designed the system for minimum ballast losses, so used there as high voltage tubes as possible with glow starter and series choke. And the maximum voltage such ballast could handle on 220V is about 100V on the arc. Given estimated ~5W ballast losses, it yield ~20W on the tube. With power factor 0.9 on the tube given the sine current vs rectangle voltage it would mean current of ~0.22A...
But it could be anywhere between ~0.2..0.27A (expect the arc voltage won't be outside the 80..110V range)

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BG101
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Brian TheTellyman
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Jan 28, 2014 at 12:52 PM Author: BG101
I will do some tests to find out

BG

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Kappa7
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Jan 28, 2014 at 01:53 PM Author: Kappa7
@Medved:
I've to check in my basement if it's still here(but I doubt).
But I remember that it's very tricky to open it without damage the glass because the plastic is very very tight.

The older black base version is very easy to open because the plastic base is made from two separate parts.
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