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Sodium Resonance Radiation absorbtion by cold Vapor using two SOX-90s

Sodium Resonance Radiation absorbtion by cold Vapor using two SOX-90s

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Lower SOX-90 coming up to full output, Upper SOX-90, cooling after removal off same gear lower lamp is now connected to.
Cross arc tubes, observe more Neon radiation in arc tube of lower lamp when sodium vapor in upper lamp absorbs and scatters much of the resonance radiation from lower lamp.

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Album name:Globe Collector / Miscelaneous Lamp related stuff
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Date added:Aug 31, 2012
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rjluna2
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Robert


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Aug 31, 2012 at 10:13 AM Author: rjluna2
Yep, I have seen other member posted at this site with two SOX bulb with one immediately shut off resulting cloud of dormant Sodium in gas state.

Pretty, please no more Chinese failure.

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Aug 31, 2012 at 02:00 PM Author: James
Andrew, you have taken the photo that I also wanted to taken for a long time! Well done to get it to come out this clearly. It's very impressive to see the neon radiation so strongly from the lower tube.

Have you ever tried to make a similar photo with HPS? Especially if you have an HPS lamp with higher sodium pressure than normal (e.g. SON Deluxe, White SON), if you switch it off in a room that is brightly lit with white light the arc tube of the sodium lamp acquires a strong blueish colouration after it has cooled somewhat and stopped glowing. This effect is due to the hot sodium vapour absorbing the yellow wavelengths.
rjluna2
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Aug 31, 2012 at 02:16 PM Author: rjluna2
Aha! I see what you mean about showing the discharge of the Neon filling, James.

Pretty, please no more Chinese failure.

Globe Collector
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Aug 31, 2012 at 08:23 PM Author: Globe Collector
Yes James, I have "pulled that stunt off", but with ordinary SON-T. I have only a few "Black-Body" sodium lamps like Thorn SON DL-Ts and Philips SDW-Ts and I treasure them too much to do that to them. BUT, you can easily pull it off with an ordinary SON-T.
Get a SON-T, NAV-T, or HPS-U 400, bring it up hard on the rig with a 100mH Choke, not the usual 115mH. Watch it with the spectroscope until a goodly wide "resonance imprisonment" band appears, but not as wide as a lamp like an SDW-T of course. Shut it off when the imprisonment band is about 10-15nm wide, the arc tube should be glowing with a Plankian temperature of about 1600-1700K. Take the lamp out of the socket by the cool "crown" area or "neck" area, don't burn your fingers on the part of the bulb right adjacent to the (still glowing) arc tube. You have to get it out of the socket quickly, before the arc tube cools too much.
Once it is out, still hot and in your hairy paw, shake the shut out of it end to end to splatter all the amalgam up into the hot middle of the arc tube. Quickely hold it up to a window against a bright sky, you will see a deep green-blue colour inside the arc tube!
Only do this to a "crappy" lamp you do not value too much. The "cold" amalgam hitting the hot sintered alumina can crack it due to thermal shock!

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

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Brian TheTellyman
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Sep 01, 2012 at 09:12 PM Author: BG101
I've just tried this and couldn't see anything! How long does the effect last once the lamp is disconnected?


BG

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Sep 01, 2012 at 09:44 PM Author: Globe Collector
You have to do it whilst the arc tube is as hot as possible, prefrably still glowing. If you looked at the lamp whilst it was running, your foveas will be "burnt out" and you my not be able to see the effect.
I use a separate ignitor, I connect the lamp in seties with the choke, then just "jab" the ignitor in parallel with the lamp to start it, so when I remove the lamp from the socket while it is on, there is no ignitor to start "zapping".
So, I just take the lamp out of the socket while it is on, I do this by unscrewing it by the crown, I then transfer it to the other hand and hold it by the base. Immediately I "shake" it vigeroulsy from end to end. Imagine you have a drinking straw with some custard inside it and you want to flick it out, How would you "flick" it to make it come out? Use that same action to "flick" the amalgam, behind the electrodes, down into the hot arc tube.
It may not work with some "modern" G.E. lamps with amalgam reseviors, I did it with a 1980's Belgian Philips SON-T 400.
After you flick the amalgam out, look through it straight away with a bright overcast sky behind it, the green vapor only lasts for a few seconds, 10 seconds at most.
After the lamp has cooled, you will see the splattered amalgam in the arc tube and if you re-strike it the shadows of the amalgam splatters will be obvious. Sometimes the arc will actually run from the amalgam splatter if it is quite long, so the arc will go from the electrode to the end of the splatter on the wall of the arc tube then off the other end of the long "bird shut" like splatter to the other electrode. Needless to say, this is not the way to treat a lamp which you value, do it with a junky old lamp with not much value!

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

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Brian TheTellyman
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Sep 01, 2012 at 11:29 PM Author: BG101
I just tried this again and although the arc tube looked quite clear when viewed in front of the other lamp, it certainly didn't when looked at directly. The sodium vapour looked cloudy/translucent under the sodium light but completely clear under the mercury vapour light I currently have on the landing.


BG

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Sep 02, 2012 at 12:36 AM Author: Globe Collector
If you look THROUGH the arc tube with a diffuse WHITE light source behind, you should see the green colour. If you see yellow cloudiness under another sodium lamp, particularly low pressure one like a SOX, then yes, absorbtion and re-emmission are occurring.

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

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Brian TheTellyman
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Sep 02, 2012 at 01:50 PM Author: BG101
I'll have to take some photos! The other light source was indeed exclusively SOX as I'd turned off the uplighter which had a MV in it.


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Sep 02, 2012 at 09:01 PM Author: Globe Collector
The reason you can't see it Brian is because you have not done what I told you to do. Don't try to use a MERCURY lamp behind it, the spectral emission lines of Mercury do not match the absorbance of the sodium AT all. You MUST use a black-body, spectrally broad source which is diffuse too, the sky or OVERCAST SKY. If you do EXACTLY what I describe above you WILL see it!
The spectral emission of a mercury lamp and the absorbance of sodium vapor don't fit at all, its like every even tooth in you upper gum was removed and every odd tooth in your lower gum was removed , you could not chew your food then, despite still having lots of teeth! The broad black body emission of an overcast sky is 100% sure to contain 590nm wavelength light which the vaporized amalgam in the arc tube can remove by absorbtion leaving everything else, which appears blue when the yellow has been taken out!

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

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Brian TheTellyman
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Sep 03, 2012 at 01:55 PM Author: BG101
I turned the mercury lamp off first like I said above I had tried using a HPS but couldn't see any effect under that. The overcast sky suggestion is something I'll try


BG

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Sep 03, 2012 at 08:42 PM Author: Globe Collector
I went out to my container and got out two crappy Chinese NAV-T 400s, one new, one used. I will try this "stunt" again, (have not done it for years).
I do not know how to post in You-Tube, but I should be able to get the camera to record a "moving image" file format.

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

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Sep 03, 2012 at 11:24 PM Author: AngryHorse
I find the best way is with a little 11watt CFL.
I have had a 150watt SONXL-T, GE lamp, lit in front of me, and an 11watt CFL behind me, when you turn the XL-T off, there are 2 prominent blue lines down either side of the discharge tube.

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