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ReStore score 10/3/2014

ReStore score 10/3/2014

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I took another trip to the ReStore today, and by god I hit half-off day yet again. That's like, four or five times in a row. I got everything you see here for $21. I really splurged this time.

Who wants to guess what kind of fixture that is?

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Album name:themaritimegirl / Miscellaneous
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Date added:Oct 03, 2014
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sol
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Oct 03, 2014 at 08:12 PM Author: sol
I'm guessing a 100 watt MH.
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Oct 03, 2014 at 08:32 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Close! It's 175, probe start! I don't have any of my tools here, so I can't take it apart past removing the lens to make an "official" photo of it yet, but I did perform a balls-to-the-wall test by shoving the leads into an outlet, and it came on and ran up, and seems to work just fine, so I filmed a video of that which I'll upload tomorrow. I'm gonna get a 175 watt MV to try on it.

I've only run it for 10 minutes so far, because this is my very first MH fixture and lamp, and it's a standard enclosed-rated lamp, and I'm terribly paranoid of the arctube exploding, despite having the lens on it and the lamp not appearing to be worn to that point. It's the (presumed) bang associated with the explosion I'm afraid of. Sudden loud noises aren't my thing.

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tmcdllr
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Oct 03, 2014 at 11:28 PM Author: tmcdllr
Medium base?

Nothing like the beautiful cool white light of a coated Mercury Vapor lamp and the soothing hum of it's magnetic ballast.

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Oct 03, 2014 at 11:31 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Yep.

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Oct 03, 2014 at 11:34 PM Author: tmcdllr
Medium base probe start MH?.... Oh wow!

Nothing like the beautiful cool white light of a coated Mercury Vapor lamp and the soothing hum of it's magnetic ballast.

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Oct 03, 2014 at 11:38 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Is that not common? I have very little knowledge of HID outside of MV.

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tmcdllr
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Oct 04, 2014 at 12:01 AM Author: tmcdllr
Well from what I have seen, before PSMH, the larger BT28 mogul probe start lamps seemed to be more common. I did, however, used to have a Lumark Bandit that used a 175 watt medium base probe start MH lamp, didn't really see many of those in use around here though.

Nothing like the beautiful cool white light of a coated Mercury Vapor lamp and the soothing hum of it's magnetic ballast.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 12:15 AM Author: DetroitTwoStroke
175 Watt medium base probe start MH is less common than mogul base, but they are still out there. I think 175 Watt medium base mercury lamps are much less common, although EYE still makes them.

Pride and quality workmanship should lie behind manufacturing, not greed.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 12:23 AM Author: tmcdllr
Yeah those are hard to find.

Nothing like the beautiful cool white light of a coated Mercury Vapor lamp and the soothing hum of it's magnetic ballast.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 12:33 AM Author: themaritimegirl
Hmm, interesting. I'm actually in the market for a 175 watt MV lamp for this thing - I've posted in the Wanted forum. I suppose it would be no problem to use a medium-mogul adapter if I have to.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 12:59 AM Author: tmcdllr
I did find these just now.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/360869210609

http://www.residential-landscape-lighting-design.com/store/mercury_vapor_lamps_175_watt_RLLD1843EYE.htm

And not related but still interesting.... this....

http://www.lightingsupply.com/mv175-ed28-dx-mog.aspx

Nothing like the beautiful cool white light of a coated Mercury Vapor lamp and the soothing hum of it's magnetic ballast.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 11:55 AM Author: themaritimegirl
Wow, a BT-shaped cleartop MV you can buy new? That's interesting.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 12:36 PM Author: streetlight98
Nice! 175W probe start Mh is common for small fixtures like this. mogul base lamps are usually only in larger commercial fixtures. 175W MV yardblasters are mogul base though because 175W MV medium base lamps are very uncommon and rare. Good luck getting your hands on one.

That first one doesn't have the H39 ANSI code, which makes me think it is a special-application pulse-start MV lamp, which will run on a 175W PSMH ballast, but not a 175W MH ballast. The third link probably has an outdated picture. Cleartop mercs havn't been made since the 70s. There are some BT lamps still made but they're either clear or fully coated.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 01:04 PM Author: themaritimegirl
That rare eh? I guess I'll plan on getting an adapter, then. I have this Westinghouse Lifeguard in my eBay watch list that I'll probably default to if I don't get a lamp from someone here; it looks like medium base to me? Or isn't it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131293397846?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Maybe I'm wrong, but the picture of that BT lamp looks to me like it was taken in recent times. Perhaps there is some foreign company who is in-fact still turning them out?

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Oct 04, 2014 at 01:14 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Video of this fixture and powering it on for the first time is now up.

http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=0&pid=99163

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Oct 04, 2014 at 02:27 PM Author: streetlight98
This fixture looks too short to use an adpater. mogul base BT28/ED28 lamps are much larger than the medium base E17 lamps. the whole lamp is probably the length of the glass. Looks like this is staying MH unless you put in a 70W or 100W PSMH ballast, in which case you can run medium base 100W MV lamps.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 04:38 PM Author: themaritimegirl
You're right. I did some measurements, and looked up some specs, and by the looks of it I'm not gonna fit anything other than an ED17 or A23 bulb, which limits me to a 100 watt MV lamp. Well darn.

I'm not going to keep the fixture as-is because it puts out way too much light for anything I'm ever going to do with it. So I think I will convert this thing to 100 watt MV. I could try my current-reduction trick like I did with my 50 watt MV fixture so I could use this ballast with a 100 watt MV lamp, but I really don't like having to have an extra component in there, and one which gets hot as heck, as well. Plus, this is a CWA ballast, whereas the ballast in my other fixture is HX, so I have no idea how well the ballast will react to having the input voltage reduced. When I get home I'll do some experiments using incandescent light bulbs and see.

I see I can get a new 70 watt PSMH ballast on eBay for under $20 total - that's a good price, and would certainly work. Another option I have would be to harvest the ballast out of my 50 watt MV fixture, throw it in this fixture (without the current-limiting resistor), and use it as a 75 watt MV fixture. I'm considering re-converting my 50 watt fixture to use either a fluorescent ballast again, or a 35 watt MH ballast, so that could work. Although I think I would rather this fixture be 100 watt MV than 75 watt MV. So many options. I'll figure it out some time.

I'm giving the fixture another run right now, first time since the video. I let it run up all the way without the cover on, taking pictures of the lamp along the way. So an official pic of the lamp will be up later tonight. I'm wearing sunglasses as I type this.

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streetlight98
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Oct 04, 2014 at 05:41 PM Author: streetlight98
100W MV would look nice in this. Yeah a 70W PSMH ballast will drive a 100W MV (close to full power, maybe slightly under). As far as I know, you need a pair of capacitors in series to dim a lamp on a CWA ballast. CWA ballasts are pretty sensitive. If you out the wrong wattage lamp in a reactor or reactance ballast it won't hurt but on a CWA ballast, you'll fry the cap, which could take out the ballast out with it. Not sure if that's true for dimming it.

For the 70W PSMH ballast, wire it up as the wiring diagram tells you except disconnect the igniter's neutral white wire and leave the red and blue wires conencted. This will disable the igniter, as it requires the neutral to function.

I know personally I would use anything to alter a ballast but you know what you're doing. If I knew how to safely alter ballasts to properly run other lamps I'd probably do it. My area of expertise isn't with the electrical aspect of fixtures. My area is more street lights and their associated components and outdoor lighting in general. That's why it's great to have members like you know understand the science behind electircity and lamps.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

sol
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Oct 04, 2014 at 05:44 PM Author: sol
Out of curiosity, do you get pink flashes as it warms up, especially during the green phase ?
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Oct 04, 2014 at 05:51 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Yes, I do, but not until the lamp is almost all the way warmed up. My 50 watt mercury vapor lamps occasionally do it, too, also when nearly run-up.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 06:15 PM Author: streetlight98
That's probably because the arc tube is vibrating. If you slap the fixture does it flash pinkish? My MV lamps do that. ED lamps are prone to have vibrating arctubes.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 06:19 PM Author: themaritimegirl
I don't know, I'm not keen to induce physical shock to any running HID lamp.

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Oct 04, 2014 at 06:24 PM Author: streetlight98
I'm not talking about hitting it with all your might, just a little. If you make the arc tube vibrate, it'll flash. I've never tried it on a HPS but I assume it would work. It's because you momentarily mess up the arc inside the tube and then it rectifies (not fluorescent rectifying, i mean the arc corrects itself).

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

sol
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Oct 04, 2014 at 06:43 PM Author: sol
The pink flashes during the final stages of warmup are fairly normal although both of mine don't do it. Lantern Vision has a nice video of the flashes. They are caused by larger particles of salt that get into the arc and vapourise. The process throws off the colour of the lamp for a brief instant.

A physical shock to an operating MH lamp probably forces the arc into a cold spot where there are unvapourised salts. When the arc stabilises again, the extra vapourized salts condense again (there are more salt particles than necessary to maintain an optimum saturation of the atmosphere with the ions). I'm just speculating on this one as I have never given a physical shock to an operating MH lamp...
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