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Osram sylvania F32T8 (17w) LED retrofit tube

Osram sylvania F32T8 (17w) LED retrofit tube

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So far I only own this one tube. Seems to be decent with a nearly all around spread of light. Tube is fully glass except the end caps

Here its running in a undercabinat fixture on a sylvania electronic 1lamp rapid start ballast. Interesting that this lamp still gives off a rapid start like appearance when powered on this ballast

20161212_163507.jpg 20161212_170457.jpg 20161212_170612.jpg 20161210_131330.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Sylvania
Lamp
Lamp Type:T8
Service Life:New / Mostly new
Electrical
Wattage:17w
Optical
Color Temperature:4100K
Physical/Production
Application/Use:In service

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Album name:Lightingguy1994 / LED Lamps
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:154 KB
Date added:Dec 12, 2016
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DieselNut
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jonathon.graves johng917 GeorgiaJohn
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Dec 15, 2016 at 12:52 PM Author: DieselNut
I would be willing to test one like that. It must be set up in such a way that it wont harm the ballast's cathode heating circuit?

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!

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Dec 15, 2016 at 01:03 PM Author: Ash
In few LED tubes i seen (all intended for Preheat 230V) it is either like

=*---2 pins shorted-------- L E D --------2 pins shorted---*=

or

====2 pins go to L E D . . . . . . . . . 2 other pins shorted *=



Both options will hard-short the heater coil of RS. If you wanna try then disconnect one wire from each side
DieselNut
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jonathon.graves johng917 GeorgiaJohn
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Dec 15, 2016 at 01:18 PM Author: DieselNut
Yea I would certainly measure resistance across the pins first.

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!

Lightingguy1994
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Dec 15, 2016 at 01:19 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
The box states its for programmed start or instant start but only parallel wired systems.

This makes me think only 1 pin on each end goes to the LED. The other is probably connected in a way that mimics cathode resistance. I got a messurement of around 20 ohms when probing both pins on this with the nodes of a multimeter set to resistance
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Dec 15, 2016 at 02:04 PM Author: Ash
I'd expect them to be hard shorted then

With IS it does not matter as long as the sockets in the lantern are shorted

With PS, the PS circuit resembles an ordinary Preheat circuit in a way :

- HF power wire L to 1st pin on 1st end

- 2nd pin on 1st end to capacitor (in the place where starter would go)

- other capacitor side to 2nd pin on 2nd end

- 1st pin on 2nd end to HF power wire L'

For the HF power supply to run, it must see the capacitor connected across its output. In some ballasts there is also EOL protection probing for HF voltage presence at the capacitor, as in - if there is none, then it does not get there because the tube cathode is broken, so kill the power

But you know what, lets say we dont have this problem, and assume that the power supply would run without the capacitor

Now, you must insert the tube in a way so that the 2 HF power wires connect to the pins where the LED is, and not to the unconnected pins

If the HF is supplied to socket contacts on the same side of the strip from both ends, then you have 1/2 chance to install the tube correctly

If the HF is supplied to socket contacts diagonally from each other, then the tube wont work no matter which side it is installed

And since this is pretty much random, it means that a tube with 1 pin connected on either end wont work at all in 1/2 of the luminaires, and work only from 2nd try in 1/2 the times in the rest....
Lightingguy1994
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Dec 17, 2016 at 10:45 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
Ah that makes sense. its possible the tube could be shorting my ballasts cathode heating system since the tube did work on any 1 pin each end at a time. there may be some kind of diode in it that stops shorting but I'm not sure. But nonetheless no ballasts were harmed and work fine.

I don't plan on using any LED tubes on any ballast other than IS where I live. When I have my own place and set up lights, almost all will be the good ol reliable things like magnetic T8/T12 and HID gas lamps. I would still use T8 IS / RS electronic in some applications like in rooms that have 3 or less fixtures installed.

To make lamp stock last over time, EOL lamps anywhere will remain in place until the annual relamp day hits, which is why I'll use IS/parallel systems in rooms with 3 or less fixtures, so all rooms will still have light even with 1 or 2 EOL lamps. This is looked down upon on the gallery I know but I have never seen any issues with RS magnetic ballasts failing from EOL lamps. Should I see a failure, I might change my routine.

LED tubes such as the above would only be used in outdoor conditions where cold affects performance.
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