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100W MV

100W MV


This is my only clear MV lamp that I have I had imported this from US

163DE6DD-0F38-48B8-B985-6793C8A46CEB.jpeg DSC00575.JPG DSC00579.JPG E401BDAA-EFDF-4A60-B86A-1C34AFF606A0.jpeg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Denkyu
Lamp
Lamp Type:MV
Base:E26
Shape/Finish:Elliptical Clear
Electrical
Wattage:100
Voltage:130
Current:0.8
Physical/Production
Factory Location:China

File information

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Album name:LightsDelight / Mercury Vapour
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Date added:Jul 02, 2019
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Date Time:2019:07:02 18:01:32
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Globe Collector
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Sep 07, 2019 at 05:21 PM Author: Globe Collector
You have done will, getting a clear ED mercury in Australia is really something. I don't have any!

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

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Sep 07, 2019 at 05:25 PM Author: LightsDelight

You have done will, getting a clear ED mercury in Australia is really something. I don't have any!

The shipping was something like $30 but well worth. A ballast different story, I’m rewinding an old Atco oms70 to 100W MV

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Globe Collector
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Sep 08, 2019 at 04:49 AM Author: Globe Collector
You don't need to rewind....just use a choke for a 125w lamp and back the supply down 2)5 on a Variac.....I am assuming you have a Variac.
Or use two 50 chokes in parallel, or five 250w chokes in series. (Again, assuming you have a large collection of chokes.

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

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evan.driscoll.33 UCp-ouYxSgmqTWUY4RGWyAFg
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Sep 08, 2019 at 04:51 AM Author: LightsDelight

You don't need to rewind....just use a choke for a 125w lamp and back the supply down 2)5 on a Variac.....I am assuming you have a Variac.
Or use two 50 chokes in parallel, or five 250w chokes in series. (Again, assuming you have a large collection of chokes.

Ok cheers, I don’t have cardiac but do have 50W chokes. Will it run correct tho

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Sep 08, 2019 at 05:21 AM Author: Globe Collector
Inductors add like resistors....inverse addition in parallel and direct addition in series.

My rig is a whole bunch of 125w c230mH chokes plus some smaller and bigger ones to "trim". Fine trim is done with the Variac.

The only real important thing for most HID, (with the exception of those designed for HF operation) is arc current first and open circuit voltage second, (which with series chokes in Australia is 240v, same as the supply [no current through the choke(s)]).

Autotransformers, either before or after the chokes will modify both lamp current and O/C voltage.


Lets say you have a HID lamp, such as this....an oddball 100w rated mercury...BUT, you can look up the arc current on its data sheet....what you do, is start it up on, say and 80w choke (or 200w incandescent GLS lamp)...and it will draw a lot of current...nearly that of the choke/lamp alone directly across the mains as most Mercury's drop about 20v at startup...but as the temperature and pressure rise so does the are voltage ... so the drop across the choke/globe decreases as does the current ... If the choke is a bit small the lamp won't come all the way up , so you can "dab" another choke...say for a 20w T12 0r a 40w globe across the 80w choke ... the current will then come up higher and if it is too much, just back the supply voltage down a bit.

Once you have it running at its rated current...dosn't really matter how you got that current, just as long as you did..then you will get the designed arc voltage across that arc tube for that lamp...which will be a square wave and may require crest factor correction to match published values.

With incandescent lamps you first set the voltage of a low impedance source, apply the lamp to the source and get its design current.

With discharge lamps this idea has to be "turned on its head" and in this case you don't adjust the voltage of the supply...but you adjust its source impedance (upwards) with series connected passives like capacitors, resistors or inductors. (In reality capacitors have issues with arc extinguishing at zero-cross and resistors, [i.e. incandescent lamps] work quite well but are inefficient so inductors are the only viable remaining choice.)

This change of source impedance in turn changes (adjusts) the lamp current (downwards) and from this you finally get the lamp voltage.

I am speaking in a Theveinin manner above.

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

LightsDelight
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Sep 08, 2019 at 05:26 AM Author: LightsDelight
[quote author=Globe Collector link=#msg522471 date=Sep 08, 2019 at 05:21 AM]
Inductors add like resistors....inverse addition in parallel and direct addition in series.

My rig is a whole bunch of 125w c230mH chokes plus some smaller and bigger ones to "trim". Fine trim is done with the Variac.

The only real important thing for most HID, (with the exception of those designed for HF operation) is arc current first and open circuit voltage second, (which with series chokes in Australia is 240v, same as the supply [no current through the choke(s)]).

Autotransformers, either before or after the chokes will modify both lamp current and O/C voltage.


Lets say you have a HID lamp, such as this....an oddball 100w rated mercury...BUT, you can look up the arc current on its data sheet....what you do, is start it up on, say and 80w choke (or 200w incandescent GLS lamp)...and it will draw a lot of current...nearly that of the choke/lamp alone directly across the mains as most Mercury's drop about 20v at startup...but as the temperature and pressure rise so does the are voltage ... so the drop across the choke/globe decreases as does the current ... If the choke is a bit small the lamp won't come all the way up , so you can "dab" another choke...say for a 20w T12 0r a 40w globe across the 80w choke ... the current will then come up higher and if it is too much, just back the supply voltage down a bit.

Once you have it running at its rated current...dosn't really matter how you got that current, just as long as you did..then you will get the designed arc voltage across that arc tube for that lamp...which will be a square wave and may require crest factor correction to match published values.

With incandescent lamps you first set the voltage of a low impedance source, apply the lamp to the source and get its design current.

With discharge lamps this idea has to be "turned on its head" and in this case you don't adjust the voltage of the supply...but you adjust its source impedance (upwards) with series connected passives like capacitors, resistors or inductors. (In reality capacitors have issues with arc extinguishing at zero-cross and resistors, [i.e. incandescent lamps] work quite well but are inefficient so inductors are the only viable remaining choice.)

This change of source impedance in turn changes (adjusts) the lamp current (downwards) and from this you finally get the lamp voltage.

I am speaking in a Theveinin manner above.[/quote]
I understood barely any of it i have got some assistance from Ash and I will be winding my own

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Sep 08, 2019 at 06:09 AM Author: Globe Collector
I have a circuit posted up here...I will try to find it...I'm attempting to run a CDM-TT 70..

Yep, here it is running on the bench.

Here is the borched gear.

Here is the circuit minus the second "downwind" relay switched autotransformer.


Lamp Current waveform. Note kinks just after zero-crossing where arc has to re-strike.

Here is the arc voltage at that current...note the leading edge inductive "kick" from the chokes when the arc is extinguished at zero-cross. The Arc drop is about 75-80v DC...the flkat-top of the square wave. When this is all "averaged" and corrected for crest factor the published value is more like 95v RMS.

Manufactured articles should be made to be used, not made to be sold!

Fee, Fye, Fow, Fum, A dead man's eye and a parrot's BUM!

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Oct 21, 2019 at 07:57 AM Author: sox35
This will run on a 70W HPS ballast on 240V, without the ignitor, of course..!

Ria in Aberdeen
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Nov 12, 2019 at 06:37 AM Author: LightsDelight

This will run on a 70W HPS ballast on 240V, without the ignitor, of course..!


The lamp will get overdriven by 200mA and will get bloody hot as a result

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Nov 12, 2019 at 06:46 AM Author: dor123
125W mercury lamp, can run on 70W HPS ballast, and it will be underdriven, but still with hot cathodes, so the life will be longer. I don't see any reasons for the 100W MV lamp to be overdriven on this ballast.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

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Nov 12, 2019 at 10:06 AM Author: sox35

The lamp will get overdriven by 200mA and will get bloody hot as a result

It doesn't, actually. It's the closest rating ballast I can find and seems to work well.

Ria in Aberdeen
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Nov 12, 2019 at 10:19 AM Author: arcblue
70w HPS ballast technically should work fine as I’ve run 70w European self-igniting HPS on a 100w HX US mercury ballast and the current was fairly close.

However, I’d actually recommend you simply use an 80w mercury choke for these - even though they state they are 100w lamps, these Chinese ones tend to have shoddy and undersized arc tubes and they fail quickly on the 100w ballasts here. Underdriving them might actually help in this case.

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Nov 12, 2019 at 10:24 AM Author: sox35

70w HPS ballast technically should work fine as I’ve run 70w European self-igniting HPS on a 100w HX US mercury ballast and the current was fairly close.

However, I’d actually recommend you simply use an 80w mercury choke for these - even though they state they are 100w lamps, these Chinese ones tend to have shoddy and undersized arc tubes and they fail quickly on the 100w ballasts here. Underdriving them might actually help in this case.

Thanks for the info. I did try an 80W choke but the lamp voltage seemed a bit high (I don't have an easy method of measuring lamp current at the moment) and looking at the spec sheets the 70W HPS ballast seemed the best option. The only 100W MV lamps I have are a couple of GE HR100DX/A23 lamps and a Westinghouse Lifeguard 100W /DX BT-shaped lamp, all of which seem to run fine on the HPS choke.

Ria in Aberdeen
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Nov 13, 2019 at 05:51 AM Author: LightsDelight
sox35 - I've been powering it up usually with an 80W choke. The 80W MV ratings are very close to that of the 100W it is 115V @ 800mA and 100W is 130V @ 800mA.

GlobeCollector - following your suggestion i have ran it correctly for once with 2 50W MV chokes, i might make a YouTube vid on that as it seems interesting.

ArcBlue - I don't tend to use this lamp often as I'm in Australia and they are hard to come by. I'll be more worried by the abuse I've been giving it

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Nov 13, 2019 at 10:51 AM Author: sox35
Hmmm, I'll maybe give the 80W ballast a try again. My lamps are only for the collection, so are unlikely to reach EOL, but I'd still rather not be guilty of helping them on their way

Ria in Aberdeen
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Nov 13, 2019 at 09:31 PM Author: arcblue
Sox35, for an older 100w mercury lamp of known good quality like a Sylvania, Westinghouse or Philips the 70w SON ballast without igniter is probably best. These lamps can probably also be run on 80w or 125w ballasts with little reduction in life (I’ve seen them mistakenly used on 175w ballasts here!)

The Chinese 100w lamps have undersized arc tubes that seem to be optimized for the cheap residential security lights that were sold here for a while that often underdrive the lamps. Conversely, some of those fixtures would instead overdrive 100w lamps...

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Nov 15, 2019 at 05:31 AM Author: LightsDelight
ArcBlue - To run this one I used 2 50W MV chokes in parallel and it workd a charm, even ran it correcttly (for onece ) at its rated 130V and 0,8A

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