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General Electric M250A Cobra-Head Luminaire

General Electric M250A Cobra-Head Luminaire

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General Electric M250A Cobra-Head Luminaire.
I've been looking for one of these for sometime. However, this one is a piece of work. From the outside it looks OK, but on the inside there's going to be a lot of work. So where do I begin? The refractor had a bullet hole in it and it's also an A/E, but that's easy to replace (I have a GE/Holphane refractor, so I'm OK there). There's a bullet whole in the top housing (which is not visible in the photo) that has to be repaired, along with a bullet hole in the reflector (.22 gauge). The ballast WAS a 175W/H39/240v reactor...or what was left of it. The ballast was fried, and the metal plates that the ballast WAS mounted to were 90% missing in action (rust). This poor luminaire had so much crud inside it that I started to wonder if I had wasted my money (paid $20 USD for it).

175W-H39-M250A-2.JPG 175W-H39-M250A-3.JPG 175W-H39-M250A-4.JPG 175W-H39-M250A-1.JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:General Electric Company
Model Reference:M250A Power Door
Lamp
Lamp Type:Mercury Vapor
Fixture
Fixture Type:Cobra-Head
Ballast Type:H39
Socket Type:E39 (Mogul)
Photocell Type:Twist-Lock
Arm Type:1-1/4" Steel
Electrical
Wattage:175W (205 input watts)
Physical/Production
Factory Location:Hendersonville, NC
Fabrication Date:November, 1968
Application/Use:Residential Streets

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:175W-H39-M250A-1.JPG
Album name:WestinghouseCeramalux / General Electric M250A Project
Keywords:Lanterns
File Size:377 KB
Date added:Mar 04, 2019
Dimensions:864 x 648 pixels
Displayed:215 times
Date Time:2019:03:03 02:16:30
DateTime Original:2019:03:03 02:16:30
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Time:1/320 sec
FNumber:f 3.3
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:4.7 mm
ISO:100
Make:Panasonic
Model:DMC-TZ5
Software:Ver.1.0
White Balance:0
URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-156867
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fluorescent lover 40
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Lights are awesome! :)


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Mar 04, 2019 at 12:32 AM Author: fluorescent lover 40
Is there a two-letter date code you can find? Like 'AA' for example? It's pre-1977 if it originally didn't come with a NEMA tag.

-Date decoder of most US lamps 1960-present.

-Collects all types of lights.

I'll save any vintage lamp... dead or alive! Smiley

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Mar 04, 2019 at 08:10 AM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux

Is there a two-letter date code you can find? Like 'AA' for example? It's pre-1977 if it originally didn't come with a NEMA tag.

The foil label is still there. I'll take a closer look at it next time I have it down and see if I can find the code number.

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Mar 04, 2019 at 04:35 PM Author: streetlight98
If it's got a foil label it's no newer than 1971. At some point in 1971 or starting 1972 the labels were paper, and those often rotted away to nothing after some time. Looks like you've definitely got your work cut out for you. The M-250A is one of my all-time favorite cobraheads but yeah, at that point I'd be considering just saving the good parts and junking it (keeping the mast arm of course; those can be hard to come by!) I personally like having fixtures that have all their original gear (or at least OEM replacement parts to the point where it can pass as original).

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

WestinghouseCeramalux
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Mar 07, 2019 at 11:12 AM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux

If it's got a foil label it's no newer than 1971. At some point in 1971 or starting 1972 the labels were paper, and those often rotted away to nothing after some time. Looks like you've definitely got your work cut out for you. The M-250A is one of my all-time favorite cobraheads but yeah, at that point I'd be considering just saving the good parts and junking it (keeping the mast arm of course; those can be hard to come by!) I personally like having fixtures that have all their original gear (or at least OEM replacement parts to the point where it can pass as original).


Mike, I see it as a challenge...unless as I dig further into it and find that there's more than I want to tackle. The biggest issue is repairing the bullet holes...I have some ideas as how it can be done, and I'm thinking of creating an album just for this luminaire restore project.

This interior of this luminaire was almost as nasty as your Powerlight cobra-head.
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastcom&cat=10426&pos=1&pid=133627

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Mar 07, 2019 at 05:38 PM Author: streetlight98
Lol yeah that powerlite was a project and a half. I only went through that much effort on it because it's such a rare light here and I've always wanted one. You mentioned similar feelings toward this M250A so I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

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105555521242365640724 UCM30tBQDUECOV6VeG5W87Vg zfarmadillo
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Mar 07, 2019 at 08:31 PM Author: Lumex120

At some point in 1971 or starting 1972 the labels were paper, and those often rotted away to nothing after some time.

Paper labels? Can't imagine those would have lasted long. I know of a town with about a hundred of (I think) 250w MV M250A's and none of them have labels. I had always thought they never had labels in the first place, but I guess they could have been paper and they rotted away. Here's a streetview of one.

Any machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.

streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Mar 07, 2019 at 08:53 PM Author: streetlight98
I'm talking about the nameplates inside the fixture. The light you linked is a M250R, which definitely has a foil label inside. NEMA tags were always a variant of plastic with GE and started appearing on HPS lights in the mid 70s and MV GE lights by 1977.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

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Apr 21, 2019 at 07:36 PM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux
For those who are interested, I took this luminaire out of storage today (4/21/19) to look it over and noticed the date code is LD. If anyone wants to date it, go ahead.

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

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Apr 21, 2019 at 07:46 PM Author: Lumex120
Well, I mean, I guess I could, but not sure how I feel about taking this on a date.

Any machine is a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.

fluorescent lover 40
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Lights are awesome! :)


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Apr 21, 2019 at 08:04 PM Author: fluorescent lover 40
LD is November 1968.

@Lumex: Better than taking a date with a LED streetlight!

-Date decoder of most US lamps 1960-present.

-Collects all types of lights.

I'll save any vintage lamp... dead or alive! Smiley

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Apr 21, 2019 at 08:13 PM Author: LampLover

Well, I mean, I guess I could, but not sure how I feel about taking this on a date.


LOL! Lumex120 I always wanted to say when someone says please date this lamp or fixture that but I never did

LED Free Zone!
All For HID and old-school electronic Only

streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Apr 21, 2019 at 08:43 PM Author: streetlight98
Nice! This light was made during the 3rd year of production for this particular model.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

WestinghouseCeramalux
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Apr 21, 2019 at 08:56 PM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux

Well, I mean, I guess I could, but not sure how I feel about taking this on a date.


Shoulda known someone would make a smart-@$$ coment like this!

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

WestinghouseCeramalux
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Apr 21, 2019 at 08:57 PM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux

LD is November 1968.

@Lumex: Better than taking a date with a LED streetlight!


Born in 1968, reborn in 2019.

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

lights*plus
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May 02, 2019 at 01:14 AM Author: lights*plus
Bullet holes: I would tackle it by thinking I'm repairing an automobile fender.
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May 02, 2019 at 07:21 AM Author: GE101R
I like the heavy "universal" adjustable mounting plate. It is older than the fixtures by a decade at least.
WestinghouseCeramalux
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May 02, 2019 at 07:28 AM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux

Bullet holes: I would tackle it by thinking I'm repairing an automobile fender.


Yep, that's what I have in mind, but I'm not going to use 'Bondo'. This is quite a project. This luminaire is completely striped down now and I'm doing a detailed cleaning of the cast aluminum and steel parts. Some of the steel parts will have to be replaced, while others can be restored.

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

GE101R
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May 15, 2019 at 08:44 PM Author: GE101R
The arm was worth that and more.
WestinghouseCeramalux
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May 16, 2019 at 08:11 AM Author: WestinghouseCeramalux

The arm was worth that and more.

Agreed!

Your mission - should you choose to except it - is to save unique and rare HID lighting before it's all scrapped.

funkybulb
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May 16, 2019 at 08:41 AM Author: funkybulb
yeah Bondo just dont cut the mustard.

I would tackle this with Alumium HVAC foil
tape. get some JB weld and mix up with
Aluminum dust. to fill in the bullet holes
then sand it down flush and repaint.

No LED gadgets, spins too slowly.  Gotta  love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.

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