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SOX 18W with adapter running on magnetic fluorescent gear

SOX 18W with adapter running on magnetic fluorescent gear

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Finally found the time to wire up my SOX 18W to a magnetic fluorescent ballast for 18 watt fluorescent lamps.
Here you see it warm up for the very first time.

At first I tried it without any igition aid, just the plain ballast in series with the lamp. It did not work for me, it just kept flashing on and off like a fluorescent lamp during startup on a glow bottle starter.
Then I added a Philips S10 starter (just slightly used) in parallel to the lamp so that it is shorting the ballast when it closes. It worked like a charm, I applied power and the starter began to glow, then the contacts closed and the SOX fired up, on the starter's first try.

Here you can also see one of my newly aquired B22 to E27 adapters in use. Without them I wouldn't be able to fit the SOX lamp anywhere (well exept in my SOX lantern MI 26 of course).
These adapters are pretty cool, they enable me to fit a SOX lamp in pretty much any E27 base fixture as long as it's not base down.

During startup this lamp is more pink than my 26W SOX-E.

SOX-O-Lantern.jpg DSC_0106.JPG DSC_0010.JPG DSC_0011.JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Philips
Lamp
Lamp Type:SOX (Low Pressure Sodium)
Base:BY22D
Electrical
Wattage:18
Optical
Lumen Output:1800
Physical/Production
Fabrication Date:November 1998

File information

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Filename:DSC_0106.JPG
Album name:Skiller / SOX
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Keywords:Lamps
File Size:133 KB
Date added:Oct 25, 2011
Dimensions:2048 x 1361 pixels
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Oct 25, 2011 at 12:15 PM Author:
I never did use a S10 the lamp won't let me on 18w T8 balast. It fired up without lighting the starter.
AngryHorse
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Oct 25, 2011 at 12:26 PM Author: AngryHorse
Great shot of the warm up

"Beauty fades, dumb is forever".......Judge Judy Cheesy

Skiller
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Oct 25, 2011 at 01:37 PM Author: Skiller
Thanks, yes it came out pretty good, it's very close to what I saw in person.

@imj What kind of T8 18W ballast do you use exactly? Mine is a new low loss one, maybe that's why it didn't fire up without the starter.

Nevertheless, I'm happy it works well. I mean I could take the SOX lamp with the base adapter, maybe add a fuse to the circuit (just for EOL protection), and put it together with the ballast in pretty much any common fixture (for MV, HPS...) with E27 screw base. I think that's quite cool.
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Oct 25, 2011 at 01:42 PM Author: monkeyface
Well I'll send you also one SOX By22d Socket
Skiller
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Oct 25, 2011 at 02:11 PM Author: Skiller
Omg, thank you.




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Oct 26, 2011 at 01:06 AM Author:
@ Skiller - It was an Atco 18w/20w ballast standard loss. It's the conditon of the lamp. Your lamp is new right? but it may not be gettered enough so some impurities could be in the gas and that makes igniton difficult. It also happens in flourescent tubes.
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Feb 01, 2015 at 02:42 PM Author: Valve 72
Wil it work fine on a tl balast? I'm curious if it will work with my SOX 18 Watt, and it wil not destroy the lamp?
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Feb 01, 2015 at 04:46 PM Author: Cal
Skiller there is an internal fuse in all modern SOX lamps to protect against things like rectifying etc when they go bad. I imagine 1998 still counts as sufficiently "new" to include this.
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Feb 01, 2015 at 06:39 PM Author: Skiller
Yeah, but with this configuration, using a fluorescent starter, the fuse is there in case the starter gets stuck – a stuck starter would completely short out the ballast otherwise since it is wired across the lamp.
I'm not so sure if the internal fuse of SOX lamps does anything at all when normal EOL is reached and the starter keeps trying to strike the lamp.


@ Valve 72
It will work with any 230V/240V fluorescent ballast for 18W T8 or 20W T12 lamps.


By the way, recently I measured the circuit power consumption and was a bit surprised because it's a little bit more than I was expecting. Using this ballast (low loss!) and the lamp shown here (which has been in use for a couple of hundred hours by now) I measured a very slightly fluctuating 28.7W. So that's more than 10W of losses for an 18W lamp.
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Feb 02, 2015 at 12:01 AM Author: Medved
When the starter get stuck, there is no difference between direct connection to the ballast orwhen the current flows via the fluorescent filaments, the filaments are nearly a short circuit as well. But as here you won't need the preheat current, a ~40..60W incandescent in sries with the starter could reduce the strain of all components involved (starter during normal operation, ballast when the starter get stuck).
Or about 470Ohm/10W resistor thermally coupled to a series PTC would make quite good cut out device - after some time of unsuccessful starting it heats up, so the PTC switches OFF. The PTC will then heat itself by some small current, so remain high ohmic with minimum losses untill someone switches the power OFF and lets it to cool down...
Or just use the "cut out" starter type - that would be the safest...

And any fuse within the SOX has no chance to help with the stuck starter, as the lamp is short circuited by the starter at all...

No more selfballasted c***

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Feb 02, 2015 at 12:52 AM Author: tony88
I use an electronic pulse starter then that don't fry the ballast at eol
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Feb 02, 2015 at 09:04 AM Author: Skiller
Thanks for the input guys.
But I'm wondering, would a slow fuse 250V maybe 0.5A in series with the starter not work reliably?

What do you think about the circuit power consumption, I think 28.7W is a bit disappointing (that's about 37% losses).
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Feb 02, 2015 at 11:50 AM Author: Cal
Sorry I was only half reading and when you said EOL protection I thought you meant the bulbs. Apparently before they were fused they could rectify at EOL and set ballasts/fixtures on fire
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Feb 02, 2015 at 01:04 PM Author: Medved
The fuse does not work to protect the ballast, it's tolerance is way too wide (it mainly drift over time, as it gets the shocks from power ON/ignition).
For a slow blow fuse you need at least double the rated current to trigger reliably. And that is way too much - it means 4x the power dissipation in the ballast, what would just fry it before the fuse blows.
The only reliable protection for these devices (ballasts, chokes, even transformers,...) is the thermal cut out switch, most efficient (to protect) with manual reset (so they do not cycle when the fault persist, so the ballast is exposed to the high temperature for just one cycle and then it is let to cool down)

It may just save you from a fire if the ballast fails, but even that is rather questionable (0.5A fuse may still allow 200W power dissipation)...

No more selfballasted c***

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