Return to the thumbnail page Display/hide file information See previous file See next file

F40t12 shield instant start

F40t12 shield instant start

Click to view full size image

Cool bulbs but wont work in a preheat the pins are shunted so it might not be good on a preheat. There is lots of single pin but this was the only case like this.

received_1063846667134583.jpeg 20190618_200430.jpg 20190312_161654.jpg 20190312_215024.jpg

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:20190312_161654.jpg
Album name:veryhighonoutput / F40
Rating (1 votes):
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:188 KB
Date added:Mar 12, 2019
Dimensions:1848 x 2464 pixels
Displayed:133 times
Date Time:2019:03:12 16:16:54
DateTime Original:2019:03:12 16:16:54
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Time:1/10 sec
FNumber:f 1.5
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:4.3 mm
ISO:320
Make:samsung
Model:SM-G960U
Software:G960USQS3BRK2
White Balance:0
URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-157224
Favorites:Add to Favorites
Comments
fluorescent lover 40
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 219
View Gallery

Lights are awesome! :)


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 12, 2019 at 08:25 PM Author: fluorescent lover 40
September 1951! Nice find!

Power provider: Southern California Edison (SCE)

-Date decoder of some US lamps 1960-present.
-Switch and receptacle collector.
-I'll save what I can! Smiley

vintagefluorescent
Full Member
***
Offline

Posts: 135
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 12, 2019 at 08:29 PM Author: vintagefluorescent
Wow that’s an early one Late 40s or early 50s is my guess , I remember seeing an old ad for the Sylvania Warmtone fluorescent light bulbs awhile back,

That bulb would look 👀 Great in a vintage preheater even if it’s for static display ,

Correction- This bulb could be shunted,

Bet it produces a Beautiful Warm Light !!!!

Just noticed something- The etch Reads instant start,
This could be a shunted tube - That May explain why it has cathode Gaurds - Just a Guess 👍

Very Nice !!!
xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 902
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 10:55 AM Author: xmaslightguy
Cool find.
You could just use a slimline ballast for these... or a 2xF32 wired for overdrive

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

jrmcferren
Jr. Member
**
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 74
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 11:51 AM Author: jrmcferren
You want a F48T12 Slimline ballast. Per the GE 1954 catalog the F40T12 instant start and the F48T12 slimline are specified to the same ballast.
veryhighonoutput
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 203
View Gallery

T12


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 12:00 PM Author: veryhighonoutput
Or I can use a f32t12x4 HO ballast and wiring it x3 lamp

T12/ t17 there's a reason they made heavy magnetic ballasts

suzukir122
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 757
View Gallery


suzukir123
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 12:24 PM Author: suzukir122
What about Rapid Start? Could it work on Rapid Start circuitry? (I'm guessing, no.)

Interests
1. Motorcycles, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent)
2. Weighting/staying extremely athletic
3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds
4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs
Yep
Lighting has been a passion of mine since I was born. I consider everyone on LG to be a friend

veryhighonoutput
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 203
View Gallery

T12


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 12:44 PM Author: veryhighonoutput
I dont think so it be like wiring all the wires together it might damage the ballast? Def not preheat for sure definitely do some damage. Especially on rare preheat ballasts

T12/ t17 there's a reason they made heavy magnetic ballasts

suzukir122
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 757
View Gallery


suzukir123
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 12:47 PM Author: suzukir122
Yeah I was also thinking it could damage the ballast. That is a test that... honestly isn't worth trying.
Especially not the HPF magnetic ones, or the electronic rapid start ballasts either.

Interests
1. Motorcycles, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent)
2. Weighting/staying extremely athletic
3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds
4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs
Yep
Lighting has been a passion of mine since I was born. I consider everyone on LG to be a friend

veryhighonoutput
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 203
View Gallery

T12


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 01:31 PM Author: veryhighonoutput
It I have a s--ty advance something 3 advance maybe just to blow it up

T12/ t17 there's a reason they made heavy magnetic ballasts

jercar954
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 33
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 01:47 PM Author: jercar954
Never hook this up to an 40watt rapid start ballast. You'll kiss the ballast "goodbye." Warmtone might be the predecessor of warm white.

Preheat and T-12 fluorescents forever! Down with LED's and instant start T-8 fluorescents.

veryhighonoutput
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 203
View Gallery

T12


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 03:53 PM Author: veryhighonoutput
Ok good advice. I may try on a electronic t12 slimline ballast anyway plus it be smoother on it since the fixture I have switches on off all the time short periods

T12/ t17 there's a reason they made heavy magnetic ballasts

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 902
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 05:07 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@veryhighonoutput:
Electronic slimline ballast should work perfectly!
But being instant-start, switching it frequently (no matter if electronic or magnetic ballast) is still going to drastically shorten its life.

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

Lightingguy1994
Hero Member
*****
Online

Gender: Male
Posts: 529
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Online)
Mar 13, 2019 at 05:19 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
T12 slimline ballast is a great idea!

These lamps are indeed instant start and have their pins shunted, so attempting to use on rapid start will kill the ballast for sure, so definitely do not try lol. I'm not quite sure why they even made bulbs like this.

If I had a lamp like this, I would use my Sylvania T12 Electronic instant start ballast . It was for normal F40s but it still instant started the lamps , ran them in parallel and the electrodes were heated to much so I modded it to have a single wire per socket. If you have a ballast like that, you can do this mod and it'll be perfect. Use shunted bi pin sockets if possible
veryhighonoutput
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 203
View Gallery

T12


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 13, 2019 at 05:22 PM Author: veryhighonoutput
Some of those basic 12 electronic ballast can run all the lamps from f96 to f48 there pretty versatile and might drive them better than the ones directly for f40s

T12/ t17 there's a reason they made heavy magnetic ballasts

arcblue
Full Member
***
Offline

Posts: 174
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 14, 2019 at 06:53 PM Author: arcblue
I've run an F48 slimline on a Basic 12 (f40T12 electronic) and since it has such high OCV it lights fine. you want to run only one wire to each socket since your bipin lamp is internally shunted. If you connect cathode heating you'll fry the ballast like lightingguy1994 notes.

I don't know the reason they made these lamps either. Maybe for places an instant-on lamp was critical? Otherwise I see no advantage, only disadvantages.

I'm lampin...

ricksbulbs
Newbie
*
Offline

Posts: 8
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Jun 20, 2019 at 09:34 PM Author: ricksbulbs
These will run off standard single pin F48 slimline ballasts, you want the wires on the power side fed through the shunted pins so the ballast shuts of if a lamp is removed like the butt end, non spring loaded sockets on single pin holders do on slimline units, A 4 lamp F32T8 ballast will drive these at a little under rated current--which is 425-430 MA on the lamps, and at 400 MA if you parallel each pair of secondaries to make it a higher current 2 lamp instead of independent 200 Ma 4 lamp. Works fine. On those, no need for interrupting the power at one end of course, as these ballasts can run unloaded, while magnetic slimline will cause cap failure and internal flashovers on open circuit with ho lamp load. OR you can use a regular 2 lamp (TULAMP) preheat ballast with a normally open momentary contact push button switch wired across each lamp end to end so pressing it literally shorts the ballast momentarily, and when released, the inductive kick will be quite strong across the lamp and will start it. You can press and release both at same time, or one at a time. Don't hole in, just press and let go fast. I recommend a 0.22 uF, 600 volt or higher, mylar film "Orange drop" capacitor across the switch to prevent arcing at the contacts, and to get a stronger kick across the lamp, a ceramic or mylar cap from a newer FS-4 starter will do as well. Same scenario can be achieved with a RS ballast, but both switches need to be closed together, and you won't use the yellow wires at all, cap off separately, and use only the red and blue at one end, one of each, cap the others, and a single jumper across the lamps at the other end, push buttons from ballast wire to jumper across both lamps, and this will also work, but preheat ballast will be best. A special starter was made in 1946 that allowed using instant start lamps like these on preheat ballasts, worked the same way. So, a few options to run these, and the warmtone lamps were pretty much warm white, 3000 K. Cheers!
© 2005-2019 Lighting-Gallery.net | Powered by: Coppermine Photo Gallery