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The half dead Advance ballast

The half dead Advance ballast

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This ballast is half dead one bulb works and one doesn't can somebody tell me why? It Overdrives the one bulb that works

1522105094239488754679.jpg 1522104330328-695233145.jpg 1522103462180-1377163290.jpg 1522023793504-111981246.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Advance
Model Reference:RQM-2S40-3-TP
Lamp
Lamp Type:F40
Electrical
Wattage:Full power ballast
Voltage:120
Current:60
Physical/Production
Factory Location:Chicago Illinois
Fabrication Date:3/77
Application/Use:Experiment ballast

File information

File information

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Filename:1522103462180-1377163290.jpg
Album name:alexd120 / All Types of ballast
Keywords:Gear
File Size:407 KB
Date added:Mar 26, 2018
Dimensions:2464 x 1386 pixels
Displayed:85 times
Date Time:2018:03:26 17:31:15
DateTime Original:2018:03:26 17:31:15
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Model:SAMSUNG-SM-G870A
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xmaslightguy
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^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
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Mar 26, 2018 at 07:55 PM Author: xmaslightguy
Much like a GE I have.. the 2nd lamp doesn't even need to be in place for the one to work. (doesn't overdrive though)
I can't remember if its the 'red' or 'blue' side that lights...

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

alexd120
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Mar 27, 2018 at 07:55 AM Author: alexd120
It Overdrives the bulb and overheats
ace100w120v
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Mar 30, 2018 at 10:35 PM Author: ace100w120v
I've got an old Universal Therm-O-Matic that does this. It seems to have internally shunted itself for one lamp, much as can be achieved by wiring a lamp between the red and blue wires, capping the yellows. In this condition, a lamp will usually instant-start, thanks to the higher OCV and not being in series, but this is electrically worse than two 34-watt lamps. That said, this one I have, despite being from when the very first 35-watt (not 34) lamps came out, has been running like that for years now, in my use, installed running a single lamp.

These can also produce interesting EOL results. I never got a lamp to lose vacuum on mine, but I did get some orange flashing.
Fluorescent05
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Zack


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Sep 10, 2019 at 02:31 PM Author: Fluorescent05
I think part of the capacitor shorted out.

Don't be fooLED, T8 IS the worst thing to do to a magnetic T12 fixture.

xmaslightguy
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^homebuilt fixture


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Sep 10, 2019 at 11:13 PM Author: xmaslightguy
There's a small capacitor (on one side - either the red or blue, I don't remember which) that acts as a starting aid...it is likely shorted.

If the main capacitor was bad, it wouldn't light at all.

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

Fluorescent05
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Zack


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Sep 11, 2019 at 04:53 AM Author: Fluorescent05

There's a small capacitor (on one side - either the red or blue, I don't remember which) that acts as a starting aid...it is likely shorted.

If the main capacitor was bad, it wouldn't light at all.

It goes from the yellow to red to temporarily short out the red side lamp to aid in starting the blue side, then once it charges up, the red side can start and both lamps will start. That small cap is probably shorted. It is sometimes in the form of a third lead on the main cap. LPF RS ballasts don't have this.

Don't be fooLED, T8 IS the worst thing to do to a magnetic T12 fixture.

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