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Advance 2 lamp 40 watt ballast

Advance 2 lamp 40 watt ballast

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This is probably the only 40 watt 2 lamp low power factor rapid start ballast I own. Its from a shoplight I found on junk night. It works, but does drive lamps very well. Gotta keep it though because they dont make these anymore. The date on the bottom of the ballast is 1-87

1451865851771522425202.jpg 1451767901114-935051183.jpg 1451766940605-1100218755.jpg 1451766502347-539786675.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Advance
Model Reference:RL-240-1-TP
Lamp
Lamp Type:Fluorescent
Fixture
Ballast Type:Rapid start
Electrical
Wattage:40 watt
Voltage:120
Current:.85 amp
Physical/Production
Factory Location:United States
Fabrication Date:1-87

File information

File information

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Filename:1451766940605-1100218755.jpg
Album name:Cool white 79 / New album
Keywords:Gear
File Size:346 KB
Date added:Jan 02, 2016
Dimensions:1386 x 2465 pixels
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ace100w120v
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Jan 02, 2016 at 06:29 PM Author: ace100w120v
Yeah, these are pretty dim and don't do well in cold places. And DON'T EVER use 34 watt lamps with these, they'll fry ballasts like this.
Cool white 79
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Jan 02, 2016 at 06:40 PM Author: Cool white 79
Yea. I meant to say doesn't drive lamps well.
rjluna2
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Robert


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Jan 02, 2016 at 07:09 PM Author: rjluna2
January, 1987.

Pretty, please no more Chinese failure.

streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Jan 02, 2016 at 07:45 PM Author: streetlight98
Yeah I've had a few of these but snipped the wires off them all and junked them. The solid 18 gauge wire is worth more to me than the ballast itself lol.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

Solanaceae
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Jan 02, 2016 at 07:54 PM Author: Solanaceae
I saw similar ballasts but with gold print and labeled "home lite".

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ace100w120v
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Jan 02, 2016 at 08:17 PM Author: ace100w120v
You mean HomeBrite, right?
xmaslightguy
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Jan 02, 2016 at 09:56 PM Author: xmaslightguy
I've got some of those in my box of LPF ballasts, and one of the HomeBrite version too
(stuff I should get rid of because its just sitting around LOL ...)

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

Cool white 79
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Jan 03, 2016 at 11:37 AM Author: Cool white 79
I'd hold on to any magnetic ballast pre 2000 these days. Low or high power factor.
streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Jan 03, 2016 at 12:14 PM Author: streetlight98
Trust me, not worth it. You'd get more light from a full-power single lamp F15T12 strip light than you would two F40T12s on this ballast. And Pre or post 2000 makes no difference. After 1980-ish, most magnetic T12 ballasts became rather inferior. The best ballasts are the pre-1980 ones with a nice juicy PCB capacitor.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

Cool white 79
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Jan 03, 2016 at 12:27 PM Author: Cool white 79
Lol. I like the F15T12 analogy. And yes I prefer pre 80s ballasts. They have the most power. PCB or not. Lol!
xmaslightguy
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Jan 03, 2016 at 02:13 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@streetlight98:
Got a laugh from the F15 comment LOL .. they're not quite that bad basically equalivent to a 2xF20


I would tend to avoid anything with PCB's though.

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

Cool white 79
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Jan 03, 2016 at 02:16 PM Author: Cool white 79
Lol again. Hey, I think an F6T5 would be brighter than this set up.
don93s
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Jan 03, 2016 at 02:28 PM Author: don93s
I've tossed out tons of these over the years. At my work, they installed tons of those residential slop lights years ago and so I quietly replaced all of the ballasts with HPF 2x40, lol. I still have a few laying around that I used to experiment with.
streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Jan 03, 2016 at 03:03 PM Author: streetlight98
LOL yeah I was exaggerating a little there but they really are sorry excuses for ballasts. I think that's why the reputation of T12s to home owners was ruined, since virtually all residential F40T12 fixtures run the lamps at 60% power at best.

what's funny about these is that they pull .85A, just over what a full-power F40/RS would pull, and an apparent draw of 102W, but with such a low power factor, the real wattage is a fraction of that!

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

Solanaceae
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Jan 03, 2016 at 03:04 PM Author: Solanaceae
Would putting two of these exact ballasts in series be advisable?

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streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Jan 03, 2016 at 03:12 PM Author: streetlight98
Maybe not series, but you could possibly put two in the same fixture and shunt each one for one lamp. The darn thing would still probably underdrive an F40 though.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Jan 03, 2016 at 03:18 PM Author: Solanaceae
Wait I meant parallel to double the current. My bad.

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don93s
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Jan 03, 2016 at 03:47 PM Author: don93s
With two identical ballasts like these, parallel seems possible but every wire would have to be phased properly...each pair of the red, blue, and yellow would have to be matched so that the electrode heating outputs aren't shorted to each other. Example, a pair of reds reversed with the other pair of reds would make a series circuit of the 3.8v+3.8v= 7.6v dead shorted and trouble ensues.
xmaslightguy
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Jan 03, 2016 at 04:59 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@streetlight98:
That 1-lamp trick will work with a HPF ballast (but it will still run the lamp at normal brightness) - or you could do 2 F20T12's since the ballast would 'see' that same as a single F40
Same trick won't work with a LPF as it'll overdrive(and overheat) the ballast.

@Solanaceae/don93s:
I wouldn't risk interconnecting 2 RS ballasts...just sounds like something waiting to go -bzzzzzt- -kaboom-
Could be fun to go blow up a couple ballasts on the patio though LOL (video camera running ofcourse!)

Technically if you were to risk such, on one ballast you'd need all wires connected, on the 2nd one I believe all you'd really need is the 1 red, 1 blue (the 2 true ballast wires)

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

streetlight98
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Jan 03, 2016 at 05:48 PM Author: streetlight98
Yeah I guess these ballasts make good test victims for wiring experiments lol. And I heard somewhere on here that you can do mercury migration with these?

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

xmaslightguy
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Jan 03, 2016 at 09:10 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@streetlight98: I've never been able to to do mercury migration with any, but I believe it was DieselNut who said he had certain LPF F40 ballasts do it..

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Jan 03, 2016 at 09:45 PM Author: streetlight98
Ah interesting. Yeah now that you mention it, I do recall it being John who said that.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

themaritimegirl
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Jan 05, 2016 at 04:19 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Advance made a lot of these really cheesy residential ballasts. I want to get one to test someday, particularly the HB-240-TP, which I believe is the worst one, and see what the lamp current actually is.

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Cool white 79
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Jan 05, 2016 at 04:52 PM Author: Cool white 79
I actually blew up a F40T12 lamp using 2-40 watt 2 lamp high power factor ballasts.I took the blue wires from one ballast and the red wires from the other ballast and connected the lamp. I think I made the mistake of connecting the ballasts to 2 separate phases of the line. (Creating 240v, high current at the lamp). Lol! it happened a good 20 years ago and I remember using two separate extension cords... Last time I'll do something like that.
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Jan 05, 2016 at 05:42 PM Author: Solanaceae
Did it actually explode?

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Cool white 79
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Jan 05, 2016 at 05:54 PM Author: Cool white 79
It did, there was glass everywhere. Maybe a better term would be imploded since these lamps are under vacuum. Either way it scared the heck out of me. I guess I created a dead short (the bulb) by hooking it up that way. Plus, im almost sure one blue wire connects to the line side of the ballast. At least, thats what I noticed the last time I opened one.
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Jan 05, 2016 at 05:58 PM Author: Solanaceae
Iirc the neutral goes to the lamp and ballast to be autotransformerd and the line is ballasted.

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Cool white 79
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Jan 05, 2016 at 06:02 PM Author: Cool white 79
What is lirc? Also, what is mercury migration?
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Jan 05, 2016 at 06:23 PM Author: themaritimegirl
IIRC = "if I remember correctly"

Mercury migration happens when a lamp is rectifying (current only flows in one direction, usually due to one cathode of the lamp becoming nonfunctional). The mercury moves ("migrates") towards one end of the lamp, so only that end of the lamp lights up, and the other end is very dim. See here.

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Jan 05, 2016 at 06:24 PM Author: Solanaceae
IIRC Means if I recall correctly. And Hg mighration is when an eol fluorescent has one electrode weaker than the other. This is when they rectify. Hence the migrating. I don't remember what end the Mercury migration goes to.

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Cool white 79
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Jan 05, 2016 at 06:42 PM Author: Cool white 79
Ok. Interesting how that affects operation. I also like the 24 v.a.c comment on the link. I used to do that for fun when commercial buildings renovated and I grabbed a bunch of tubes. I used the transformer on the boiler as a matter of fact. After destroying the cathodes on numerous bulbs, I realized it wasnt a good idea to do, as I almost killed the transformer. Cool light show watching the different stages of cathode burning out. It started off white for few seconds, if that, then blueish purple then orange then nothing.
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