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liteway/loa starter

liteway/loa starter

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liteway/loa starter

20170314_105806.jpg 20170314_112916.jpg 20150918_114228[1].jpg 20150918_114236[1].jpg

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Manufacturer:loa/liteway

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Filename:20150918_114228[1].jpg
Album name:toomanybulbs / misc stuff
Keywords:Gear
File Size:237 KB
Date added:Sep 18, 2015
Dimensions:2465 x 1386 pixels
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Solanaceae
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Sep 18, 2015 at 07:26 PM Author: Solanaceae
Would you theoretically be able to wire up one of these to run with a normal preheat ballast?

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Ash
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Sep 18, 2015 at 08:07 PM Author: Ash
Maybe. Actually it looks like you'd b able to stuff it into the can of a starter.....

The 3 black wires tho (they are all connected together) are a bit weird. They look as if its connected before the filaments, in "instant start"-like setup in the shop light, with those black wires being the common for 2 lamps and AC input ?

What i dont like here is the VERY undersized TO-92 cased thyristor - That is just too tiny (clearance distances) to safely handle ignition voltages. and lack of protection whatsoever - If this thing shorts out, its a stuck starter. If it rectifies, your ballast would probably be up in smoke....

In the shoplight, there is the thermal cutout wrapped in the choke - that would prevent overcurrents going too long, and the series capacitor would eliminate possibility of rectification - If the thing rectifies, it would just charge up and stop conducting any more current.. Unless it is breaking down on its own,,, Then stuff msy get haunted
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Sep 18, 2015 at 08:12 PM Author: Solanaceae
There is a similar setup in the cheep hydro farm shop light grow fixtures I have and I wanted to try something like that our.

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toomanybulbs
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Sep 19, 2015 at 07:37 AM Author: toomanybulbs
yes if you dont catch a bad lamp quickly these things self destruct.the choke has shorted turns and an open fuse.adding a new tube and jumping the fuse resulted in a badly overdriven lamp and smoke from the choke in about 10 minutes.
clearly meant to be disposable.and as they die(yes i think these things read here)as this one did they get trashed.i might rip out the starters though.
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Sep 19, 2015 at 07:56 AM Author: Ash
Got any EOL CFL's of comparable wattage ? Try fitting their ballasts in the shoplights
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Sep 19, 2015 at 12:15 PM Author: Medved
The circuit looks like it is supposed to operate with a series LC type of ballast:
The series R+D on the left side is supposed to charge the capacitor so double of the mains voltage appears across the lamp after power ON.
The rest of the circuit is in fact a "triac dimmer" with fixed setting, so the triac fires when the lamp didn't strike yet, but does not fire when the lamp strikes. It creates the current for the electrode heating, but yet allows the full dopuble mains to be present across the lamp for ignition (so forms a kind of RS ballast with heating disconnect)

But I have no idea, how this is supposed to work with just a series choke - that can not make the double mains voltage (maybe just some spike when the triac switches OFF at Ihold; but that spike would be rather limited, as the holding current uses to be just few mA)...

No more selfballasted c***

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Sep 19, 2015 at 12:48 PM Author: Ash
Looking at it again now, indeed there is nothing to pull it OFF before zero crossing... I assumed it is pulled OFF when the current is still fairly high

But how is it supposed to heat both filaments ? There are 3 black wires connected to it all together - Looks like atleast on one side it jsut goes to some common point of the circuit (Neutral ?) so no heating for the filament there
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Sep 20, 2015 at 06:58 AM Author: Medved
The two black wires on the left are just Neutral connection - one goes to the lamp, one to the mains connection box. These wires do nothing, just the connection.

The black wire on the right, together with the red wire are the main "starter" connections and all functionality goes along just these two.

The overall connection is then similar to a preheat circuit:
The line input goes into the series capacitor-inductor ballast combo (not on this board)
The wire from the ballast combo goes to one lamp terminal (again not on this board).
The red wiure from this PCB goes to the other terminal of the same filament
One black wire from the two and the black wire on the right go to the other lamp filament
The remaining black wire is then the Neutral return.

No more selfballasted c***

don93s
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Sep 20, 2015 at 11:52 AM Author: don93s
These definitely don't work without a capacitor in series with the choke ballast. I too have seen many modes of failure within these type of fixtures...especially the earlier generation LOA shop lights. I've seen the chokes melt through the plastic housing, capacitor self-destruct, dim lamps that go eol within hundreds of hours, and cathodes that blow instantly upon start-up. There were a ton of these installed at my workplace years ago and they were a mess. I have since replaced them all!
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Sep 20, 2015 at 01:20 PM Author: Ash
Chokes melt through - They had no thermal fuse in the earlier versions ?
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Sep 20, 2015 at 04:17 PM Author: don93s
I can't recall if they had thermal protection or not...or whether the temperature cut-off was mismatched with the temperature tolerance of the plastic housing.
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