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Another Yellowed Bucket Light

Another Yellowed Bucket Light

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At some house/apartment. This particular location of this bucket light created crummy lighting for photography.

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Filename:DSCF1780.JPG
Album name:wattMaster / Not Our Lighting
Keywords:Lanterns
File Size:298 KB
Date added:Sep 28, 2016
Dimensions:2465 x 1643 pixels
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URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-126018
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Alights
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Sep 28, 2016 at 07:00 PM Author: Alights
clear lamps cause the refractor to yellow faster..from what i heard they allow more UV than the DX mercs

Magnetic ballasts and old school electronic only zone!  No T8 instant start

wattMaster
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Sep 28, 2016 at 07:02 PM Author: wattMaster
And I actually like yellow refractors, it indicates that the bucket light is fairly old.

SLS!

icefoglights
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ITT Low Pressure Sodium NEMA


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Sep 28, 2016 at 07:43 PM Author: icefoglights
It's a Cooper. They are only between 8 and 15 years old. I've seen many of them yellow quite badly.

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wattMaster
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Sep 28, 2016 at 07:52 PM Author: wattMaster
MV fixtures and ballasts were still manufactured in 2008?

SLS!

icefoglights
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Sep 28, 2016 at 08:47 PM Author: icefoglights
Not manufactured (or in the case of these, imported) after December of 2007, but there were still plentiful in 2008 and even into 2009.

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streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Sep 29, 2016 at 07:35 PM Author: streetlight98
Yeah these refractors yellowed very fast since the lamp is in very close proximity to the refractor and these are likely not high-quality polycarbonate, so they're probably not as treated to protect against yellowing as a cobrahead refractor may be. A cobrahead refractor that's polycarbonate will definitely yellow with a clear MV (they eve do with coated MVs, but it does seem to be a slower process) but it would take a lot longer than a few years to get this brown. Partly because the cobrahead ones are higher-grade polycarbonate that's better treated with chemicals that retard the discoloration and partly because the lamp is elevated away from the refractor so the worst of the heat is above the refractor and absorbed by the reflector. Being further from the lamp might help with the UV too but it helps with the heat more I'd think.

Heat seems to have just as much of an effect as UV on yellowing polycarbonate. NGrid has installed some polycarbonate lenses on 250W HPS lights and they turn very brown. Takes over a decade to get that brown though. 250W HPS yellows the refractor about the same speed as a 175W MV. they always used coated bulbs here though. The polycarbonate lenses on 50W HPS and 70W HPS pretty much don't yellow at all (very minimal) and same for 100W HPS. I've seen 150W HPS AEL 115s in Ontario that had half-browned refractors though so 150W HPS might be enough to brown the lens out.

NGrid has also been known to occasionally use acrylic refractors on 250W HPS lights and those tend to deform when they're heated up and if the light ever becomes a dayburner, they melt like ice cream on a hot day lol.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

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Sep 29, 2016 at 07:38 PM Author: wattMaster
I have only ever seen one browned/yellowed cobrahead refractor. Do Hg-free HPS lamps have a lower UV output?

SLS!

icefoglights
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Sep 29, 2016 at 07:59 PM Author: icefoglights
HPS lamps have no UV output to speak of. The yellowing of the plastic is caused by oxidation, which is encouraged by exposure to UV and to heat. All HID lamps produce copious amounts of heat. UV from HPS lamps isn't the issue it is with MV and MH, but if the fixture gets enough sunlight, it can get enough UV exposure to cause yellowing.

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streetlight98
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Sep 29, 2016 at 08:24 PM Author: streetlight98
Yeah HPS arctubes run at very high temperatures. That's why if the outer envelope cracks or looses vacuum, the HPS lamp won't get to full brightness, because the arc tube cannot get hot enough. I think HPS lamps are filled with a gas (Nitrogen?) that allows the arc tube to get to the insane temperature that it needs to be at and it helps keep the outer side of the lamp from getting to that same insane temperature. At least I think that's how it is. I've seen lamps that loose vacuum and do not warm up all the way. 250W HPS is LPS-colored when the envelope looses vacuum and it's about as bright as a 50W HPS or a 70W HPS. And the lamps last a LONG time like that too.

I've seen a lot of late 90s 250W HPS lights here with dimmed lamps (must've been a bad batch of GE lamps) and new lamps seem to get the fixtures working just fine again, so it's not the capacitors. Has to be something with the lamp itself, and vacuum loss seems to be the most probable thing to me. These fixtures have made it over a decade with their lamps too, some of them even being dayburners. I'd think the lamp wouldn't last as long from sputtering or something but it doesn't seem to phase them at all. The warm-up process takes longer too. the lamps in question can remain in the green-blue phase for over five minutes before the sodium even vaporizes and the lamps turn a deep golden color just like LPS. Very cool to watch but the output is totally useless lol.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

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Nov 06, 2017 at 06:27 PM Author: wattMaster
I would inquire about this bucket light, but I don't know who to ask.

SLS!

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Nov 06, 2017 at 08:29 PM Author: Lodge

And I actually like yellow refractors, it indicates that the bucket light is fairly old.



If they are poly, they are not that old, wait till you see solorized glass refractors those are nice and very old it takes decades of sunlight to get them like this and depending on the glass used some will go purple or pink and some will go yellow to amber...
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