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Burned Out 8W Fluorescent Lamp - Power Factor & Wattage

Burned Out 8W Fluorescent Lamp - Power Factor & Wattage


Here you can see the power factor and wattage recorded by my Kill-A-Watt meter for this EOL lamp. Normal power consumption is about 10W with a PF a little over 0.5. While rectifying the wattage is reduced to about 3W with a PF just above 0.4.

valmont-ballast.jpg under-cabinet.jpg youtube_1vmZSV0OJZo.jpg youtube_1R2RFKdZgZQ.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Sylvania
Lamp
Lamp Type:Fluorescent
Electrical
Wattage:8
Physical/Production
Factory Location:Mexico
Fabrication Date:2007

File information

File information

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Album name:Patrick / Fluorescent
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:9788 Bytes
Date added:May 08, 2012
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dor123
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May 08, 2012 at 09:45 PM Author: dor123
The starter also looks weak, as it barly respond to this rectifying lamp and the lamp most of the time rectifying continuously.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

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May 09, 2012 at 07:22 PM Author: Patrick
The starter appears to only engage after the lamp extinguishes. I confirmed this by removing the starter while the lamp was rectifying. After several seconds, the lamp went out and stayed that way. Back when the lamp was in good condition, it would sometimes rectify for hours if the starter did not preheat it adequately. In fact, this was occurring frequently before the lamp failed and perhaps the starter was more to blame than the lamp. Should a good starter always relight a rectifying lamp or not necessarily?

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May 09, 2012 at 07:37 PM Author: Luminaire
My Kill-A-Watt don't like pre-heaters or motor loads. It has a tendency to reboot when motor load is turned off or starter opens...
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May 10, 2012 at 06:13 AM Author: don93s
An interesting experiment to try is to take out starter and rotate it on it's pins and put back in. I've noticed many times that a starter in one position will blink constantly with an EOL lamp but when rotated, it will let lamp rectify for longer intervals.

My theory for this (and anyone feel free to correct) is that when lamp rectifies, it also causes a DC voltage to the starter, and as a result, only one side of starter electrode will glow...just like a neon bulb on DC only half glows. On the starter, if it is the half with the bi-metal strip, it will still function normally. The other half is the rigid side and will take longer for heat to transfer to the bi-metal. My 2 cents. lol

@pjc, one reason I'm not a fan of 20w PH on 120v is that many times I'll have a good lamp "misfire" and continue to rectify causing one end to sputter and darken. One thing to try is use a different starter or just rotate it in the socket to see if that helps.
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May 10, 2012 at 09:51 AM Author: Ash
This depends on both lamp and starter. Some lamps tend to "leave" enough power for the starter (higher arc voltage or shorter duty cycle ?) while still ok, and some starters fire at lower voltage than others - i seen this especially with cheap Ne starters They just glow dimly all the time when the lamp is lit

Flipping the starter sounds applicable (for starters which are not bimetal on both sides ie not Philips S10 / Osram ST111) I wonder if it may make the starter heat up enough to damage itself
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May 10, 2012 at 01:26 PM Author: arcblue
I've experienced those "misfires" with my F15T8 and F40T12 fixtures as well as the F20T12. It's really annoying...with particular lamp/ballast/starter combinations, even a practically new lamp will periodically start into a rectifying mode and then light up all the way (looks like a rapid-start startup). As the lamp ages, it gets a black spot at one end from the rectification and then will just rectify for a minute and go out, then the starter fires again and it turns on normally. Sometimes changing the starter helps, but other times I've had to put the lamp in another fixture as it just doesn't "like" that ballast. Probably using air-thermal or electronic starters would avoid these mis-starts (by giving a longer preheat period), but I don't have any.

I'm lampin...

ace100w120v
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Aug 23, 2012 at 01:55 PM Author: ace100w120v
Hmm, I have a F15T8 undercabinent light that acts like this. When I got it it had an EOL Sylvania "Design 50" in it that would blink. When I turned the lamp around in the fixture (swapped it end for end) it lit normally for a little while (maybe an hour) then would start, rectify for a bit, go out, the starter, would engage, relight the lamp in a non-rectifying state then go out and rectify. It was actually kind of entertaining to watch. Finally it would just rectify. It lasted (being used as an always-on light) for about a month or maybe a little less. Then one day it just died. At the same time I had an old aquarium light with a Thorn F15T8 "tropical daylight" (how did a European lamp get to Alaska?) that I gutted and put in place of the Sylvania. It does the weird rectify-rapid start-flicker thing, but I think the starter is going bad since it dealt with the EOL Sylvania for so long. It's an (80s?) On Guard FS-2 starter. With this lamp the ballast also gives off that same high-pitched buzz as a neon sign transformer sometimes.
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