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Philips GoldEye Restored

Philips GoldEye Restored

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1- Before cleaning
2- After cleaning
3- Powered on
4- Fully warmed up

Cost of Fitting: $5
Acquired From: Habitate/Restore
Date Acquired: Sat Oct 3 2015
Date Restored: Sun Oct 4 2015

________
I cleaned it all up and it looks almost new but has that slightly used look to it I try to go for.
The yellow on the lens wasn't easy to remove. It still has its original ballast, it seems to work fine
and after straightening out the ballast mounts, it only has a quiet hum. Also added protective sleeving
to the ballast wires.

20151121_174829.png 20151012_162055.jpg sox_restoration.jpg 100_0756.JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Philips
Model Reference:XGC 801
Lamp
Lamp Type:Low Pressure Sodium
Base:Bayonette
Shape/Finish:Tube T17
Service Life:1/3 to 1/2 used.
Fixture
Fixture Type:Canopy / Wallpack
Ballast Type:Magnetic Autotransformer LPF
Electrical
Wattage:18w / 43-45 input
Voltage:120v AC
Optical
Color Temperature:1800
Color Rendering Index:Null
Physical/Production
Fabrication Date:A-90-12
Application/Use:Not In Service

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:sox_restoration.jpg
Album name:Lightingguy1994 / Restored Gear, Fixtures & Design / DIY
Rating (2 votes):
Keywords:Lanterns
File Size:844 KB
Date added:Oct 05, 2015
Dimensions:2048 x 1152 pixels
Displayed:244 times
Date Time:2015:10:03 12:29:41
DateTime Original:2015:10:03 12:29:41
Exposure Bias:0 EV
Exposure Time:1/100 sec
FNumber:f 2.2
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:4.2 mm
ISO:100
Make:samsung
Model:SGH-I337M
Software:I337MVLUGOC4
White Balance:0
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merc
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Oct 05, 2015 at 02:55 PM Author: merc
Nice job, Lightingguy1994.

Not a misoLEDist...

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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 03:59 PM Author: Solanaceae
Great work.
Are you still having issues with the ballast overheating?

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Oct 05, 2015 at 04:16 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
Kind of yes, it still takes in about 45 watts give or take, the ballast shows signs of having been running hot for a long time. Varnish is crusty and wires are discoloured and looked like ramen noodles. The running voltage of the lamp was 72v and Amps going into the fixture was 1.09
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:10 PM Author: good223
How did you remove the yellowing?
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:13 PM Author: Solanaceae
I heard on here that peeps use brasso and vigorous polishing and abrasive sponjes.

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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:15 PM Author: good223
Man that must have been tons of work.

As for the ballast, you can revarnish it if you want.
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:21 PM Author: Solanaceae
Yeah, they sell class f red varnish on eBay here.

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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:22 PM Author: Solanaceae
Lightingguy: is the ballast winding protected with paper?

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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:42 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
To be 100% serious and honest,

I sprayed the cover with OFF mosquito repellant then wiped it off with paper towel vigorously, i repeated this 2-3 times. The more repeats the more yellow comes off.

Then I rinsed the cover with soapy water. The bug spray does leave the cover with hard water looking deposits after rinsing.

Once dry, I use Future brand premium acrylic floor finish; I take a small art paint brush and paint on the floor finish, applying this causes the hard water deposit marks to fade away. It dries and leaves the cover with a nice acrylic shine. It doesn't make the cover 100% perfect but definitely much better than before. I usually do two coats.

I did this to a few of my other fixtures that had yellow plastic lenses with similar results. I however wouldn't personally recommend others try it as this can be tricky. The mosquito repellant spray smells and its sticky. It also leaves hard water marks on the cover after rinsing with to my knowledge could only be remedied by applying acrylic floor finish liquid on it with a small brush which causes the marks to fade away.

Anyones welcome to try at their own risk. It may or may not work depending on the type of plastic your fixtures have. In all my cases ,the plastic itself wasn't yellowed, but it was a yellow coating that somehow developed on it.

You may also try an alternative called ' Retrobrite ' if you look that up. That is where you soak a yellowed plastic (like beige computer plastics) in hydrogen peroxide and leave it (still soaking in the peroxide) in the sun or uv lamp for several hours. you can also add oxyclean to it too. Theres a way to make that into a gel to spread onto larger items but I'm not sure.

I haven't tried retrobrite on light fixture plastics however, only grey computer stuff.
I'm also not sure how the acrylic finish Ive applied will do in the long run when exposed to heat and weather for years.

@Solanaceae, yes the ballast has kind of waxish paper on its windings, and thanks i'll look into getting some varnish
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:49 PM Author: Solanaceae
You're welcome.
And I'd've tried using isopropyl or acetone, it will dissolve the yellowing with some luck, or use it to get the bug spray off.

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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:55 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
I haven't tried acetone, I'll look into that!, So far the bug spray trick has worked the best, its just the fact it leaves hard water marks on it afterwards that sucks. If acetone can remove those marks, than that will be perfect!
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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:57 PM Author: Solanaceae
You can try after another 15 years of service.

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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 05, 2015 at 05:58 PM Author: Solanaceae
Or you could try gasoline, peeps have used it as a solvent before, but it may harm some plastics and also do it outside.

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Oct 06, 2015 at 12:32 AM Author: lite_lover
Good deal on the fixture! Great restoration job!

The brighter the better.

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Oct 06, 2015 at 06:58 PM Author: themaritimegirl
There's gotta be something wrong with that ballast. An autotransformer for an 18 watt lamp shouldn't be creating almost 30 watts in heat. If you can, measure the lamp current.

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GoL Solanaceae.Keif.Fitz Keif Fitz bubby_keif
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Oct 06, 2015 at 07:31 PM Author: Solanaceae
That's how my 100w ballast went out. It powered lamps fine, Yet drew tons of power and heated enough to boil water!

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Oct 06, 2015 at 07:34 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
Is there any alternative ballasts that would be a good match for it ? Hopefully something small that will fit in the fixture as well as run on 120v 60hz. I may have to install 35w HPS lamp and ballast in there instead when it goes
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Oct 06, 2015 at 07:39 PM Author: themaritimegirl
I think you can run these off of a 14/15/20 choke. It may just be slightly underdriven. Also 120V may not be enough to ignite it, but that may be fixed by wiring an FS-2 starter across the lamp. If you can fit a 14/15/20 rapid start ballast in there, that would also work and solve the ignition issue.

Electronic ballasts are also just fine. One that lists the F20T12 would do the trick. As would one for F17T8, although it may underdrive it. One for an F40T12 would also work, although it may or may not slightly overdrive it. The Fulham Workhorse 2 is a popular ballast for running 18W LPS lamps.

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Oct 13, 2015 at 11:34 AM Author: Lightingguy1994
I tried using a 15w 120v choke however the lamp did nothing, a 20w rapid start ballast only lit the lamp very dimly. So far I think i'll stick with the current ballast since it does work and the lamp doesn't seem to be in any distress on it
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Oct 13, 2015 at 02:01 PM Author: Solanaceae
The thing I see is how LPS bulbs have low arc voltages; a 35w one has an arc voltage of about 70, but need a high voltage of about 450 to ignite, or in 240 volt land, an Ignitor or kapacitor parallel with lamp.

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Oct 13, 2015 at 08:47 PM Author: themaritimegirl
In the choke circuit, did you wire a starter across the lamp like I said?

As for the RS circuit, the LPS ballast, given its very high power consumption, could be overdriving the lamp, so naturally the lamp would look underdriven when it's actually being driven correctly.

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Oct 13, 2015 at 08:54 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
Unfortunately no as I don't own any preheat starters. The RS ballast did not light the lamp well, The lamp was a very dim pink and flickering on and off while rectifying. So far I think the ballast included with the fixture should do alright for now. At the very least i'll just use it up when the fixture is put into service. Once the ballast goes, a 35w HPS system will take its place
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Oct 13, 2015 at 08:56 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Ah, it sounds like then that even the ~200V of an RS ballast isn't enough to keep one steadily lit. Odd since it's a low pressure lamp with an arc voltage of only 70V. Some day I gotta get an 18W lamp of my own and run a bunch of tests.

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Oct 13, 2015 at 09:10 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
LPS is now one of my favorite type of lighting, I wish they weren't so rare. I still have my 55w fixture with 2 lamps, one lamp is nos. So far, its still possible to order new lamps but they aren't cheap

Is it possible that the lamp may be defective and thats whats causing the ballast to burn up ? The lamp doesnt seem to have as much sodium as my others
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Oct 13, 2015 at 09:16 PM Author: Solanaceae
That's a good observation. I hear that Hg starved fluorescent tubes can cause ballast failures too, and I hear of those blue burning cycle free HPS doing the same, so it's very well possible.

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Oct 13, 2015 at 09:28 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Measure the arc voltage of the lamp. If it's abnormally low, that would indeed cause the ballast to dissipate more heat (although I'm still not sure it would cause THAT much more...)

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Oct 13, 2015 at 09:41 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
When i did that, the voltage was 72v
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Oct 13, 2015 at 09:42 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Perfectly fine then.

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Nov 10, 2015 at 03:18 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
I'm wondering since an F20 ballast couldn't run my lamp good enough, would an F30 single lamp ballast do the trick ?
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Nov 10, 2015 at 03:29 PM Author: Solanaceae
I would think you will fry the ballast. In the current ballast, something must've overloaded it since it sounds like an issue with the primary coils.

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Nov 10, 2015 at 08:09 PM Author: themaritimegirl
F30T12 ballast would both overdrive the lamp a lot and cause the ballast to overheat. If you have an electronic F20T12 ballast or a Fulham Workhorse hanging around, that would work.

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May 14, 2016 at 11:34 AM Author: Lightingguy1994
I have decided that I'll keep the existing ballast but I'm going to clean it up, add heat shrink tubing on the wires for protection. etc. I'll move it and the lamp into my Philips lux pak fixture where the metal body of it will provide great heat dissipation to the ballast. plus it'll look awesome! The gold eye is mostly plastic so not a very good source of heat dissipation.
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Mar 11, 2017 at 08:22 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
I just have a question for anyone who could answer.

Since I moved the gear from the gold eye into my Philips LuxPak I've been looking for an alternative light system to install into this gold eye fixture which stands gear/lampless right now.

My options are:
-35w HPS
-40w MV on robertson F40 Preheat gear
-Regular socket for normal household lamp
-13w PL preheat lamp
-Preheat F6T5

I would really like to use either 35w HPS or 40w MV but I'm worried about the temperature effect on the cover. Would do others think would be best in this?
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Mar 11, 2017 at 08:40 PM Author: Lodge
Very nice re-store, they should be able to handle a 35 HPS but the original reflector might need adjustment to move the lamp back from the cover and the LPS lamp support would need to be removed, and honestly there is not much more heat from the 40 watt MV so I don't see why it wouldn't work, I've seen one changed to 60 watt A-19 with no ill effects and it had been that way for many years.. Or you could go 13 Watt PL,and you would actually have room for two of them in there without much effort, or just throw a workhorse 2 or 3 in there and go back to LPS..
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Mar 11, 2017 at 11:49 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
Awesome! with the 35w HPS, it can retain its "goldeye' name The lamp support piece is already removed. I'll get my gear, dig a 35w from my storage and try it and post the final picture in a few days or so with results
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