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My Eurolux 0.5 warm white LED nightlight switched on

My Eurolux 0.5 warm white LED nightlight switched on

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In my father home.

IMG_0089.jpg IMG_0088.jpg IMG_0087.jpg IMG_0070.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Eurolux, China
Lamp
Lamp Type:3 warm white LEDs of unknown type
Base:Plug-in
Service Life:100,000 (These is not a high power LEDs)
Fixture
Fixture Type:Nightlight
Ballast Type:Series capacitor and bridge rectifier, with mains frequency filtering
Photocell Type:Manual switch
Location:My father home
Electrical
Wattage:0.5W
Voltage:220-240V 50hz
Optical
Color Temperature:2700K
Color Rendering Index:80%
Physical/Production
Factory Location:China

File information

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Filename:IMG_0087.jpg
Album name:dor123 / LED lighting (Except road lanterns), LEDs in general, lasers, flashlights and other lighting gadgets
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:66 KB
Date added:Mar 04, 2010
Dimensions:1024 x 768 pixels
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SeanB~1
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Mar 04, 2010 at 12:10 PM Author: SeanB~1
And, knowing Eurolux, will probably die within a year, if not sooner.
dor123
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Mar 04, 2010 at 12:55 PM Author: dor123
Why? Eurolux lighting products are pretty good. Their instant start self ballasted CFLs usually reach their 3 years rated life on regular switching frequency. These LEDs like in my blue one are not producted by them. The LEDs can't be overdriven because they are current limited by the integrated electronic ballast.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

Medved
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Mar 04, 2010 at 01:11 PM Author: Medved
@dor123: The "integrated electronic ballast" in such item is nothing more then series capacitor (intended to limit current as series high reactance) and bridge rectifier. The issue is, then any voltage spike in the mains or turning ON the power create large current surge (the capacitor need high current to follow the high dV/dt slope), what yield to pretty fast LED degradation.

No more selfballasted c***

dor123
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Mar 04, 2010 at 01:37 PM Author: dor123
So the LEDs actually operating in DC and so are not flickering 100hz. But i think my Eurolux nightlights (Both the blue and 2700K) are operated at AC by HF electronic drivers because they are not degradated yet despite are used long time (The blue is older then the 2700K) and turned on/off many times unlike my chinese unknown brand LED nightlight with integrated dimming PhotoControl (Intensity varied by the intensity of the light from the environment [Like the Inverter technology in Air conditioning]) that degradated in only several months.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

bluelights
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Mar 04, 2010 at 01:41 PM Author: bluelights
If they put a ~22ohm resistor in series with the series capacitor, and an electrolytic filter capacitor after the bridge rectifier, there would be no spikes or flickering. Of course this adds production cost so china manufacturers simply throw these away, but I think some of the better quality brands could use the proper circuit.

"The orange cloud looks like floating nuclear waste."
Save the mercury lamp

Medved
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Mar 04, 2010 at 05:44 PM Author: Medved
@dor123: LED's might be operated ONLY on DC (they are diodes - they emit light only when current biased in forward).
For 0.5W night lights i've never seen HF inverter, but plenty of capacitor + rectifier bridge sources.

@bluelight: Parallel capacitor would be effective against such spikes only with super low ESR (0.1V/15A = 6.67mOhm; 0.1V are spikes causing LED current spikes ~3*nominal current; current 15A = 315V/22Ohm)...

No more selfballasted c***

bluelights
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Mar 05, 2010 at 01:35 AM Author: bluelights
Medved: I meant the spike after turn-on, in which case the series capacitor can try to force up to 325V spike across the LEDs...
I meant the parallel capacitor together with the inrush current limiting resistor (something like 22 ohms) in series with mains input, then for 15V LEDs the electrolytic cap could have an ESR of something like 1 ohm.

"The orange cloud looks like floating nuclear waste."
Save the mercury lamp

Parrot
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Mar 06, 2010 at 05:24 PM Author: Parrot
I have a night light just like that but mine is 120volt and is fluorescent.
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