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F13T5 running on CFL ballast

F13T5 running on CFL ballast

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This lamp running on the ballast from this CFL. Total running power is 11.5 watts, so the lamp is getting probably 9 watts, which isn't bad. I tried a plethora of different lamps, and T12's in general are horribly underdriven, receiving less than half their rated power. T8's aren't much better. The only exception might be the F10T8, which I've read is rated for only 0.17A. T5's, however, run fine. I tried all four of the old-world T5 lamps, and they run only a watt or two below spec.

Startup of this lamp is interesting. A cold start looks kind of like programmed start, while a warm start looks like rapid start. The ballast itself is a rapid start/instant start hybrid.

IMG_0954.JPG IMG_1047.jpg IMG_0938.JPG IMG_1018[1].JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Lamp
Lamp Type:F13T5
Fixture
Ballast Type:Electronic CFL ballast

File information

File information

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Filename:IMG_0938.JPG
Album name:themaritimegirl / Experiments, Projects, & Mods
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:230 KB
Date added:May 13, 2014
Dimensions:2050 x 1537 pixels
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merc
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Adam


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May 13, 2014 at 02:42 PM Author: merc
Cool! I like it.

How do you disassemble CFL? (If this is not your secret.) Do you use a clamp plus pure strength or some chemicals to dissolve the glue?

Not a misoLEDist...

Medved
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May 13, 2014 at 02:45 PM Author: Medved
With the F10T8 it depends, which variant you have in mind, there are two of them: One ~34cm long is rated at about 0.25A (I do not know accurately, as I do not have it's official spec, but the arc voltage is ~47V), the second is 470mm long and that is the one rated for the 0.17A.
So the shorter one will be underloaded, only the longer one will run OK...

No more selfballasted c***

themaritimegirl
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May 13, 2014 at 02:46 PM Author: themaritimegirl
For this particular CFL, I just stuck a knife in the groove and pryed upwards to separate the two halves. They're only held together with plastic clips. Then I cut the helical lamp from the ballast and fry that using my instant start lamp killer ballast.

Oh, I didn't know there were two different types of that lamp! I guess I would going after the longer one, then.

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Medved
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May 13, 2014 at 10:14 PM Author: Medved
But I think in the North America the more common is the shorter one...

No more selfballasted c***

themaritimegirl
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May 28, 2014 at 03:27 PM Author: themaritimegirl
Medved, is the starting system these particular CFL ballasts employ similar to the Semi-Resonant Start system used in Europe?

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Medved
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May 29, 2014 at 01:31 PM Author: Medved
No, this is really a resonant circuit, so the ballasting inductor forms a series resonant circuit with the capacitor directly parallel to the lamp.
Such resonant concept is not possible on mains frequency, as the resulting capacitances would be way too high, so when they would be connected directly parallel to the lamp (as the resonant circuit requires), it will kill the lamp by too high current spikes.

The SRS does not use any resonance for lamp start (if we do not count the power factor correction as a resonance, but that anyway happen only after the lamp ignites), it is only connected so, the PFC capacitor current heats up the electrodes, while the mains (as the ballast OCV) is there for the lamp ignition. Only after the lamp ignites, the arc current is assembled by summing the PF compensating current with the current from the mains, so the arc is effectively fed from both sides, so it is less stressed by Joule heating by the current (with preheat the complete arc current has to come just from one filament side). The resonance does not happen, because both winding sections in the ballast generate opposite field when the lamp haven't ignited yet, so the ballast froms just a wire resistance in series with the capacitor during that time. So no inductance to form a resonator.

No more selfballasted c***

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