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EOL Polaroid RS candle bulb

EOL Polaroid RS candle bulb

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So then after about working since early mid May of this year to 2 days ago now in October, this RS opal bulb has blown! It also tripped the circuit breaker!

The circuit breaker did that whilst we were going to bed!

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rjluna2
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Oct 23, 2014 at 05:50 PM Author: rjluna2
Wow, normally when our incandescent light bulb goes EOL it never trips the circuit.

Pretty, please no more Chinese failure.

dor123
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Oct 24, 2014 at 12:11 AM Author: dor123
This is what happens with poor fused or unfused incandescent lamps at 220-240V. This high voltage is sufficient to create a high power arc, which can persist so that the circuit breaker will trip.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

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Oct 24, 2014 at 12:50 PM Author: migette1
Sign of the times and cheapo Chinese lamps unfused as dor says. Rough Service lamps were always pear shaped and had a PROPER RS filament all this to circumvent the bans. Nice fitting Peter.

Interested in the history of electric lighting and incandescent in particular and neon glow lamps.

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Oct 24, 2014 at 12:55 PM Author: Andy
Polaroid lamps are crap. That company started churning out all sorts of rubbish once everyone moved to digital cameras from film.

My main area of interest is vintage fluorescent and mercury lamps. Always interested in doing lamp trades - just let me know! Smiley

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Oct 24, 2014 at 03:33 PM Author: Flurofan96
@rjluna2: well that's good that you don't have this problem when your incandescents reach EOL
@dor123: I've heard about arcs occurring in incandescents when the filament breaks
@Peter: thanks, I like this chandelier fitting. Yes I've heard about RS markings circumventing the bans
@Vicar: oh my! They sell these bulbs at my local small DIY shop! Do you know any other good RS candle incandescents with an opal coating? I don't want clear candle as they're a bit glary

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Oct 24, 2014 at 03:41 PM Author: Beta 5
50w gu10 halogen once popped fuse in the lighting ring

Thorn Beta 5 35W SOX 1965 - 2008. Top entry/Side entry

dor123
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Oct 24, 2014 at 10:06 PM Author: dor123
Flurofan96: I've commented to rjluna2.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

Flurofan96
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Oct 25, 2014 at 03:15 PM Author: Flurofan96
@dor123: oh I see. Well what you said was very good information as I did not know that some incandescent bulbs of today (even cheap ones) were not fused (because I thought that all bulbs and electricals must be fused if it to be sold safely). I thought that whenever an incandescent goes EOL, the circuit breaker will trip

I know that crompton make bulbs with internal fuses

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Oct 25, 2014 at 04:05 PM Author: Beta 5
Hi flurofan try branded lamps or take a look on ebay for others and crompton may do some opal candles btw that fitting looks very good and does not need to be ruined with cfl or led or crap incandescents imagine this with 4 sbmv

Thorn Beta 5 35W SOX 1965 - 2008. Top entry/Side entry

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Oct 25, 2014 at 04:20 PM Author: Flurofan96
Thanks for your advice Beta 5 glad you like my chandelier and certainly I'll keep it looking nice with incandescents

I'll try to find some of these opal candle bulbs made by BELL or even GE!!!

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Oct 25, 2014 at 04:24 PM Author: Beta 5
Yep ge philips, osram, radium, crompton, thorn are all good makes to have also lamps madenin the eu are better than prc

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Oct 25, 2014 at 04:26 PM Author: Flurofan96
Yep. Actually I'm in luck as I've found on amazon that there are 20x 40W BC opal candle bulbs made by EVEREADY

If I buy this, then my chandelier will be future proof. EVEREADY make quality lamps

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Oct 26, 2014 at 02:27 AM Author: Beta 5
I think eveready are quite good, how much £ are they, if they are not too bad then give them a go

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Oct 26, 2014 at 04:42 AM Author: Andy
Eveready used to be a quality brand. Now it is just cheap PRC stuff like Crompton etc.

My main area of interest is vintage fluorescent and mercury lamps. Always interested in doing lamp trades - just let me know! Smiley

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Oct 26, 2014 at 04:59 AM Author: migette1
Chances of getting EU made lamps are slim even well known makes have turned to getting PRC crap, best place to buy from is an old shop that has OLD stock or keep an eye open at bootsales they are out there...Good luck.

Interested in the history of electric lighting and incandescent in particular and neon glow lamps.

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Oct 26, 2014 at 12:41 PM Author: BG101
I wasn't aware (some of) the PRC lamps didn't have fuses .. however I've regularly had to reset the trip after lamps failed and I'm sure these did have fuses. The circuit wasn't heavily loaded either.


BG

Say NO to DICTATORSHIP in the form of bulb/tube/ballast bans !!

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Oct 26, 2014 at 05:18 PM Author: Flurofan96
Hmm well I think I'll give it a go with the Eveready lamps but I have not bought them yet

Beta 5 the pack of 20x 40w opal candle bulbs were for £8.90 but there was another seller selling the exact quantity for £5.90

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 02, 2014 at 04:01 PM Author: Flurofan96
UPDATE: Bought the same 20 pack of Eveready 40w opal candle BC bulbs for this chandelier sorted

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 02, 2014 at 04:20 PM Author: Medved
As far as I know, EOL flashovers are really rare on 120V and if they happen, it is quite easy task even for a simple fuse to breakk the circuit safely.

But mainly with the 230V mains it strongly depends on the mains impedance (so the short circuit current), whether it will be just a faint "click" without even tripping the breaker or if it will be a loud BANG with glass pieces flying everywhere. All with the same lamp type.
The problem is, higher the short circuit current, more difficult it becomes for the fuse to really break it: It just forms an arc and continue to carry the current that way.

And regarding the breaker and it's preload: The normal current before the event does not influence the breaker, as for these short circuits is active just the fast, high current trigger (sensitivity about 10x the nominal current), so sensitivity way above any normal load there. The thermal trigger (the one, that could be "prebiased") is too slow to respond to these events...

No more selfballasted c***

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Nov 05, 2014 at 05:30 PM Author: Flurofan96
UPDATE: yesterday the whole story of the circuit breaker tripping open when this chandelier was switched on in the night when were going to bed AGAIN!!!!!

And this time when the circuit breker was connected, the WHOLE chandelier was inactive (and no the bulbs were not ALL blown) !!!!

This chandelier is totally mucked up Dagnabbit

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 05, 2014 at 06:16 PM Author: Liam
Could be a broken wire if you have only just put new lamps in it?

My gallery http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/index.php?cat=11495

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Nov 06, 2014 at 04:10 PM Author: Flurofan96
Hmm may as well be the case

For now until its sorted the living room is lit up with my red and chrome colour (see my incandescent lighting album) floor lamp

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 06, 2014 at 04:36 PM Author: Beta 5
Maybe a broken wire, try fitting a pendant to check supply and use a continuity tester for broken wires in the chandelier

Thorn Beta 5 35W SOX 1965 - 2008. Top entry/Side entry

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Nov 06, 2014 at 04:48 PM Author: Flurofan96
I'm not a qualified electrician, Beta 5 so I shall have to wait for it to be sorted out

It sounds a very likely cause of the failure of the chandelier, a broken wire, can't think of anything else

Btw how can wires break after something like this

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:02 PM Author: Beta 5
Melting over current arcing etc if you are unsure ask a qualified electrician makesure he is trusted though as I saw one on the programme watchdog on bbc1 thee was a dodgy electrician

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:05 PM Author: Beta 5
@ medved were 230v mains here in uk with the rest of europe not 120v, thats our friends over the pond the usa

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:06 PM Author: Flurofan96
Ohh dodgy electricians will not be welcome in my house. Thanks for explanation

We shall make sure the electrician is qualified

What was the result of the dodgy electrician's work shown on watchdog

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:20 PM Author: Liam
Hi Peter, it also could be a loose wire that hasn't been tightened right and it could be that when people have been walking around up stairs it has come out of its connector over time and be earthing through the fitting so to be on the safe side i wouldn't touch the fitting either lol..... I haven't seen watchdog yet i will have to catch up on tonight's show tomorrow

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:23 PM Author: Danny
Nice Switchstart circular fluorescent in place of this would sort the problem right out
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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:26 PM Author: Flurofan96
Ah yes when the assumed broken wire cause subject came to thought, I was surprised I did not get shocked when I touched it to replace the EOL bulb with a new bulb for testing, thank goodness that the earth wire is here for safety I won't touch the fitting from now on lol

Liam, which incandescent bulbs would you prefer for chandeliers like this clear or opal/pearl I like opal because it is soft on the eye and evenly distributes the light in the room. Clear bulbs are a bit too glary for me

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:32 PM Author: Liam
I don't rally mind tbh, I would go for the BELL branded candles though as they have a life of 3000h http://www.lightingbypaul.co.uk/light-bulbs-c111/35mm-candle-light-bulbs-c116/plain-candle-c117/bell-bell-bc-b22-35-mm-plain-candle-clear-bulb-p6847/s9011?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=bell-bc-b22-35-mm-plain-candle-clear-bulb-wattage-40-watts-wattage-wattage-40-watts&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads

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Nov 06, 2014 at 05:37 PM Author: Flurofan96
Hmm ok I shall investigate the BELL stuff as they're good, you're right

Thanks for the link btw, I'll keep it saved for my references but I got 20x of 40W opal candle BC bulbs made by EVEREADY off at amazon since last week Sunday

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 08, 2014 at 05:08 PM Author: Beta 5
hi peter the watchdog electrician was illegaly replacing a consumer unit and for some light to work by he pluged bare wires direct into house incoming mains, only protected by street fuse!

Thorn Beta 5 35W SOX 1965 - 2008. Top entry/Side entry

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Nov 08, 2014 at 05:11 PM Author: Flurofan96
Ohh my goodness that's one dodgy electrician!!!

This chandelier is still out of order and we are using the red floor lamp which you can see a pic of it in my incandescents album I posted back in the summer (August)

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 08, 2014 at 05:12 PM Author: Beta 5
oh yeah I saw that when I joined LG

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Nov 08, 2014 at 05:14 PM Author: Flurofan96
Ah I see, well its a kinda good floor lamp as it gives out a relaxing light

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 08, 2014 at 05:15 PM Author: Beta 5
yes soft glow lighting like the glow of sox in the snow is nice

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Nov 08, 2014 at 05:15 PM Author: Flurofan96
Ah yes, good on you Beta 5

My circline lamp in my kitchen has a G10q base

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Nov 11, 2014 at 05:39 PM Author: Flurofan96
UPDATE: this chandalier is now back up and running thank goodness as we just had an electrician to have a look and he said that it was the DIMMER SWITCH which had failed so he put a temporary plain white switch until we choose a more nicer switch

The dimmer switch was a nice gold metal colour with a classic fresnel front of the knob its about and lasted for 10 years

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Nov 11, 2014 at 08:27 PM Author: rjluna2
There you go, Peter

Pretty, please no more Chinese failure.

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Nov 11, 2014 at 11:52 PM Author: Medved
@Beta5 "@ medved were 230v mains here in uk with the rest of europe not 120v, thats our friends over the pond the usa ":

Well, that I do know.
What I do not remember at all is, who is from where. And we have here members really from all around the globe, which I really like.
So when someone does not fill in the "location" in his profile (that is solely his decision, not my business, but filling that field in has it's advantages), I may either guess (and such guess could be wrong, so my response then not fully relevant), or try to address both variants in my response (then it becomes longer and only partially relevant)...

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Nov 24, 2014 at 04:02 AM Author: migette1
Liam love your Bob the Builder made my day

Interested in the history of electric lighting and incandescent in particular and neon glow lamps.

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Nov 24, 2014 at 09:44 AM Author: Beta 5
BTW Flurofan, we had a halogen light blow and pop the fuse and dimmer

Also how much did the electrican charge in £ for this?

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Nov 24, 2014 at 04:00 PM Author: Flurofan96
Oh my word Beta 5 that's a real bummer

Electrician charged us £40 for the switch replacement

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Nov 25, 2014 at 11:37 PM Author: Medved
I would say a typical charge for just traveling to the customer's site, the switch replacement itself was then not much more than a pound or so....

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Nov 26, 2014 at 04:37 AM Author: migette1
Hi all, I saw that idiot who connected a lamp up after breaking the companies fuse box and connected it to the feed coming in to the house, the only fuses would be the ones at the sub station so to blow that would mean every house in 3 would be plunged in darkness. As I have said many times we are surrounded by fools and idiots. Electrical wiring is not difficult but make sure you know what you are doing and work SAFELY by turning off the mains, and replacing ceiling light roses always note where the wires go and take a little photo as these points often are used to common in connections to another light in another room so if you don't get it right you may find another room is in darkness. Most jobs can be done by the home owner and further info can be found on You Tube but make sure its for your country as colour codes vary as do practices. I put a video up on rewiring a torchier lamp to the US standard as all the bits were American and was going to be used here using an auto transformer to get the 120v try to be clear and precise and explain why you have done things with a reason. Good luck to you any advice just PM me and if I can help will do.....in the main time keep safe.

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Nov 26, 2014 at 04:54 PM Author: Flurofan96
Some very good tips here Peter whenever we deal with some minor electrical jobs we always turn off the power at the circuit breaker's main switch. I'll PM you if I do come across any electrical problems

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Jun 27, 2015 at 06:23 AM Author: rapidstart
I sympathise with you Flurofan. I have had Indonesian made Philips SBC candle bulbs trip the circuit breaker and destroy two dimmers when they failed. I have also had an Indonesian made Philips Softone trip the breaker when it failed and it wasn't even mounted base down

Say 'O' for an Osram, think about tonight today (old advertising jingle)

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Jun 27, 2015 at 08:07 AM Author: Ash
Same here in Israel. Newer construction (late 80s & up) homes are wired to really thick main distribution grid, and wiring is often 2.5 mm2 right to the room junction box except the final wiring of the lamp & switch loop. In older construction it was mostly 1.5 mm2

On the good side, the voltage is way more stable than in older homes

On the short circuit events, BIG BANGS!!! and very often tripped breakers on GLS EOL. The Chinese cheapies just explode, sometimes in the stem and sometimes the entire bulb
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Jun 27, 2015 at 02:58 PM Author: Flurofan96
@rapidstart: thanks for the sympathy, oh Indonesian made bulbs I've never came across or bought one anyhow its so bad that they broken your two dimmer switches (what make and style were they?) . Oh my I never knew Philips Softone bulbs were also made in Indonesia oh dear.

@Ash: thicker wire is a lot better because it has less chance of catching fire and provide stable voltage. Chinese cheapies just does no good to the electrical system of your house, they should no be even be sold because bulbs for domestic and public use should not have the potential to cause injury

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Jun 27, 2015 at 07:51 PM Author: rapidstart
@Flurofan: the dimmers were made by HPM in Australia. Normally good quality dimmers but they just could not handle the short circuit caused by the failing candle bulb. HPM even went as far as not recommending their dimmers be used with candle bulbs that were installed cap down. Unfortunately this was not obvious until you purchased the dimmer. The new HPM dimmers have an automatic soft-start feature and are claimed to have short circuit protection built-in. This time there is no mention of not using them with candle bulbs. I'm trialling one so time will tell. 60w small bayonet cap candle bulbs are extremely difficult to find here now. I still have 3 or 4 spares that are GE brand made in Hungary. Frosted, not opal unfortunately.

Re Philips Softone here is my last spare Indonesian made one.

Say 'O' for an Osram, think about tonight today (old advertising jingle)

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Jun 28, 2015 at 02:44 AM Author: Flurofan96
Hmm yes they look really good quality built but I think that these softones built in France or any EU country may be suitable for dimmer switches. However with my softones long ago around 2004 they didn't last very long and I've used them on ordinary switches

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Jun 28, 2015 at 02:55 AM Author: Flurofan96
Pity that even good quality dimmers take the brunt of the EOL Chinese lamp failure I wish you luck with your new dimmers that are said to be lamp failure protected

Apparently we do get circuit breaker trips with some of Hungarian bulbs and even osram incandescents

I will give LEDisease a taste of my shoe

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Jun 28, 2015 at 07:03 PM Author: rapidstart
I may have been a bit harsh just singling out the Indonesian made Philips candle bulbs as it is possible that a Hungarian candle bulb also tripped the breaker.

Say 'O' for an Osram, think about tonight today (old advertising jingle)

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Jun 28, 2015 at 10:44 PM Author: Ash
Lamp arcs - breaker trips. The difference between the good and bad ones is what happens with the lamp after that - Will you have to collect the glass in pieces or unscrew the stuck cap from the socket
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Feb 13, 2016 at 07:20 PM Author: rapidstart
I just had an Indonesian-made Philips 60w candle bulb go EOL in a 3-light fitting and the entire light went out. It didn't trip the circuit breaker but it appears that the short-circuit protection built into the dimmer must have kicked in as when I turned it off then back on again it reset as the remaining two bulbs lit. The dimmer seems ok so I was lucky. I have had this scenario destroy the early style of dimmers that did not have short-circuit protection. The replacement bulb will be a Hungarian GE.

Say 'O' for an Osram, think about tonight today (old advertising jingle)

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Feb 13, 2016 at 08:58 PM Author: streetlight98
Wow never thought an incandescent could trip a breaker at EOL unless the breaker was at true capacity (breakers are considered to be "at capacity" at 80%; by true capacity I mean the full rating of the breaker, whatever that may be). Do you guys use 15 and 20A circuits as well, or are they lower due to your higher voltage? does 50Hz or 60Hz make a difference in wire gauge? (does one frequency allow a gauge a higher ampere capacity than the other?) And is one "better" than the other? I've always wondered why electricity was never standardized. Obviously it would be too crazy to standardize it now (would require everyone to abandon everything and start from scratch, including the power grids) but I wonder which type of power supply has the biggest advantages over the others?

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Feb 13, 2016 at 10:14 PM Author: Ash
The "capacity" for currents at or around the breaker rating, relates to the thermal trip of the breaker - You have to exceed the current by a factor of X, for a period of Y seconds/minutes/hours delay, untill a bimetal strip inside heats up to the point that it pulls the release of the mechanics

It makes sense to do that : You do want to allow overloads on the circuit, be it the starting of a motor at several times its rated current for a moment, or running a microwave for 10 seconds on an allready loaded circuit, or other stuff

The danger that the breaker prevents is not current, but temperature that the wiring reaches under the current. In case of an overload, the wiring and the bimetal in the breaker heat up together - 15A breaker will let through 30A for a minute or two (for example) before it trips and thats ok, cause the 14g wiring won't get significantly hot within the minute or two either

It obviously affects the time of tripping whether the breaker was allready "preheated" at near full capacity or not before the overload started. But then again, if the breaker was "preheated" then the wiring was "preheated" too, so we do want it to trip faster before the wiring reach temperature where damage starts

The tripping here is the magnetic trip - immediate when the current exceed 5x/10x (Europe) or 10x/20x (USA) breaker capacity. It does not matter at all what was the current before the split second where it peaked to 300A on the 15A breaker and tripped



At low frequencies - DC, 50Hz, 60Hz pretty much all "high frequency" related effects (skin effect, ...) can be disregarded. Same gauge for same amps.

Things that really do affect the gauge are how the wires are installed, in the sense of how they can disspate heat. That is why wires are derated where they go through insulation flling of walls and such, or where tightly packed big bundles of wires (each carrying current) are present - The wire cannot dissipate the heat well, and we must keep down the heat originating in the 1st place to stay safe. So we allow lower max load than normal for the gauge

(As example for the bundle of wires case, look at the thickness of wire that ballasts are wound with. The ballasts d run hot as they are, yet if the wire was not in a coil in a ballast but in free air, you could have pushed 10 times the same current through it)



Here the brakers are normally 16A for most home circuits, including the powerfull ones like air conditioning, water tank, heating, dryer and such. One or two may be 20A or 25A - inline water heaters and such. Sometimes lighting or light loads are on their own 10A, but more commonly its together with the receptacles of the same area of the house on the same 16A breaker

All that single pole 230V/240V
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Feb 13, 2016 at 10:33 PM Author: rapidstart
My house has an 8A circuit for the lights, 16A for the power outlets and 20A for the hot water tank.

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Feb 14, 2016 at 06:08 AM Author: Medved
@streetlight98: The arc in the incandescent makes virtually a short circuit current in the mains, so in the 100's A or sometimes even more.
The circuit breaker (and/or even fuse) needs some time to really break that current, ironically higher the current, longer it takes to quench the arc across the contacts.
Before the breaker opens, the current is limited only by the mains circuit impedance (mainly just the wiring resistance).
And this high current then causes huge heat dissipated within the arc in the bulb, heating the gas fill, so it expand. And if the current is really high (the lighting wiring is made with a "better thicker than necessary" mindset; was rather common in the ear of aluminum wiring, where the relatively low material cost was tempting to save on logistic costs by using the same wire size for both the socket, as well as low current lighting circuits), the glass vessel can not handle the pressure and so explodes.
There are attempts to break the current even sooner by using dedicated fuses within the light bulb assembly, but these are barely able to prevent the bulb explosion, but still the breaker tripping mechanism get triggered (for this just few 10's us is enough to trigger the CB, but the arc quenching needs ms to really quench the arc and so interrupt the current).

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Feb 14, 2016 at 09:46 AM Author: Flurofan96
Right then, I see. Talking about arcing in incandescents- I have experienced one or two Crompton professional opal incandescents do that arcing incident, but then would fizzle out without tripping the CB also in the case of the candle bulb argon fill expansion due to heat of the high current, I've never had any exploding incandescents but one of the 2 Crompton bulbs that arced had a fairly loose base connection meaning that air got into the bulb but it was held strongly to the bulb that I got it out without any necessary use of pliars.

I'd must be extremely lucky that 0 of my inferior quality Polaroid bulbs did not explode at EOL as they actually had thinner glass diameter than the Crompton ones!! And I'm so glad for you, Rapidstart, that the indonesian candle bulb failure did not bust up your dimmer switch- GE Hungarian bulbs will be the best choice to look after your dimmer switches

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Feb 15, 2016 at 02:29 PM Author: Medved
@Fluorofan96: The arcing problem gets drastically worse with higher voltages, while my experience is with 230V mains.
So it could well be with the 120V that problem becomes virtually nonexistent - the extra arc in the series in the form of a simple fuse may be well enough to make the arc die before it causes any significant heat.
(I don't know where are you from, if from 120V or 230V area, you didn't make that info public...)

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Feb 16, 2016 at 03:53 PM Author: Flurofan96
Medved, I'm from the 230V area

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Apr 28, 2016 at 05:00 PM Author: Keiron
Some interesting comments on here, as stated on another thread we use halogens now due to the cheap incandescents being violent when EOL.

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Apr 28, 2016 at 05:09 PM Author: Flurofan96
Exactly, i could have used them but my mum was concerned of a fire hazard when using candle halogens in a fixture like this on that pic

The 40W candle bulbs are capable enough to make a significant grey/black spot over time on our ceiling, imagine what the halogens would do, might set the ceiling on fire our friends from the USA were surprised of incandescents tripping the breaker at EOL because 230V is way more powerful than 120V and therefore larger, stronger arcs can form inside a bulb at EOL

The good news is that all polaroid lamps have been cleared from the chandelier and now are fitted with these GE incandescents http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-115843 and has one CFL and LED bulb (LED is part of a lifespan experiment)

But we still have Eveready incandescents in this fitting but the shades have thick glass and will probs act as explosion shield in case of bulb explosion http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-101427

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May 01, 2016 at 04:59 AM Author: Medved
Well, regarding the fire: If 40W "classic" are not overheating anything (so when the chandelier is rated for them), there is no reason the 40W halogens could be any worse.

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May 01, 2016 at 07:04 AM Author: Flurofan96
Thats what I keep thinking but its my mum who thinks the halogen retrofits are a fire hazard as she knows that halogens run hotter and tbh I think she is right in some aspects

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May 01, 2016 at 12:11 PM Author: Cal
Biggest thread ever. I had a cheap status lamp go pop in a fitting a few days ago, went off like a gunshot and blew the fuse in the plug.
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May 02, 2016 at 09:21 AM Author: Flurofan96
Callum, that similar situation with your fitting happened to a table lamp with an SES base holder in my house. My dad turned it on and suddenly there was a flash and a "Phwhatttt" sound like a muffled bang or the sound of those vintage flash bulbs going off after putting a new bulb in, it simply did not light up as there was a problem with the fuse in the plug

What shape/type was the cheap status lamp, was it a candle/golfball as Keiron said or an ordinary GLS shaped

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Oct 29, 2017 at 05:36 PM Author: Flurofan96
As of October 2017 this chandelier is now using halogen retrofit candle lamps as my mum finally got over her belief fear of the slightly higher temperature myth of the ECO halogen lamps. FACT: Non eco (the extra life) retrofit halogen GLS lamps such as the Philips Halogena are the ones that emit higher temperature for the same basic incandescent wattage.

The lamps are 3x GE Halogen candle (Hungary), 1x TESCO (France, Osram made) and Fairway (China, now gone EOL) The GE halogens have been in the fixture since Feb this year and the other two branded bulbs replaced a couple GE halogens that gone EOL earlier! I be surprised if all 3 GEs can make it to 2018

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