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Middle louver is complete!

Middle louver is complete!

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I finally got around to painting up the middle cover. Now I just have the last one to do!

Please note: You may see tiny black squiggles on my pictures, that's camera burn in

20170323_152709.jpg 20170323_151914.jpg 20170321_133540.jpg 20170228_183557.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:CFI
Lamp
Lamp Type:F32T8(25W/ES)
Base:Medium Bi-pin
Fixture
Fixture Type:Louvered (Formerly wraplight)
Ballast Type:Electronic rapid start (series)
Electrical
Wattage:25x6
Voltage:120v / 60Hz
Optical
Color Temperature:4100K
Physical/Production
Application/Use:In Service

File information

File information

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Filename:20170321_133540.jpg
Album name:Lightingguy1994 / Restored Gear, Fixtures & Design / DIY
Keywords:Lanterns
File Size:181 KB
Date added:Mar 21, 2017
Dimensions:1386 x 2464 pixels
Displayed:124 times
Date Time:2017:03:21 13:35:40
DateTime Original:2017:03:21 13:35:40
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Focal length:4.3 mm
ISO:40
Make:samsung
Model:SM-G920W8
Software:G920W8VLU5CPK3
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URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-132202
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streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Mar 21, 2017 at 07:31 PM Author: streetlight98
Wow these look incredible! You possess some serious craftsmanship skills!

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

Lightingguy1994
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Mar 22, 2017 at 04:07 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
Thanks! .

I didn't have much choice really, louvered fixtures are hard to come by here, I tried buying 2 from some Gillis guy on here but never got them nor heard back. been 2 years. I decided to just build my own, I have some awesome designs in the works for converting striplights (18" , 24" and 48") over to full louvered with a shoplight option as a bonus. I can't wait for the day to show them to the gallery !

As for the guy that ripped me off? I simply learned not to buy from anywhere other than ebay or suppliers. (maybe from very well known and trust worthy members as well down the road!)

It does take me quite awhile to make louvered fixtures (converting standard fixtures) because theres sooo much work involved but its worth it!
streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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Mar 22, 2017 at 08:39 PM Author: streetlight98
Did that member take your money or just never get back to your about a purchase? If he had taken your money you might be able to get the admins to ban or at least suspend him as punishment. Nothing they can do legally against him though. If you're out quite a bit of money try to get his information and get the cops involved. But depending how long ago it happened you won't be able to. And if it's not a large sum it's probably not worth the hassle.

IIRC, vintagelights (username along those lines anyway) got burned by Toomanybulbs, so be aware of him too. I forget the meat of the story but it was similar to your story.

Fortunately almost none of the members would rip off anyone else. I've done some trading/selling with other members. It's pretty much the honor system. Nearly all of us respect each other as fellow collectors and won't stiff each other but there are some that take advantage (either by taking your money and running or taking you to the cleaners for something they know you really want and they paid peanuts for. That really pisses me off but that's Capitalism!)

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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Down with lamp bans!


GoL the.baus.of.all.bauses UCDl2EWWZc9h1IZXcfGU9OZA nicksfans
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Mar 22, 2017 at 09:28 PM Author: nicksfans
That sucks about getting ripped off but thanks for mentioning it so I know to watch out. I've only had good experiences making transactions with members here.

I like my lamps thick, my ballasts heavy, and my fixtures tough.

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Lightingguy1994
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Mar 22, 2017 at 10:24 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
I'm only out about $110 from 2015. Probably not worth busting over for.

There was a few excuses like can't find a box for them and stuff then just flat out didn't get any reply back. He stopped going on the gallery for over a year and has recently come back. Did send him a message recently but no dice. Other members seem to have had luck with him with those little T5 strip lights but definitely gotta be careful. Would be nice if he could just make right on the situation but if not I believe he'll get what he deserves eventually.

I kept quiet about this issue for 2 years giving him time to hopefully send them or make contact, but I realize I probably have a better chance of making contact with outer space aliens than I do with him. So now I'm being open about it.

To Admins: I'm not sure what the rules are on this site about discussing this sort of thing, if there is issue, I plea an admin contact me, have permission to remove this post and expect no trouble from me. I've been on here for several years and have enjoyed it greatly. Always did my best to follow rules and will always do so!
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18W Goldeye / 52W R&C LED front door lighting


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Mar 22, 2017 at 11:56 PM Author: Lodge
Lightingguy 1994 are you near my location on the left? I might know where some are on the cheap that you could go and pick up yourself, not that you really need to,cause those ones you build are pretty nice looking...
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Mar 23, 2017 at 01:51 AM Author: Lightingguy1994
No I'm in Ontario unfortunately, or I'd totally be interested, but I'm pretty happy with the ones I've built myself!

The process for making these ones goes like this (For me anyways)
Keep in mind the main body of the cover was already built from my earlier design I ended up scrapping, Redesigned it so adding more blades and a V to it, the sides and endplates were already prebuilt by me a year earlier.

1 -Design and figure out measurements for parts and overall shape for the retrofit cover (No mods were needed to fixture itself)
2 -Get materials ( metal, wood, couple cans of flat white spraypaint and also cans of uv resistant - none yellowing clearcoat, any tools I need.
3 -Make a model blade (one I'll use for replicating)
4 -Trace it several times on some sheetmetal (I used ducting I got at Lowes)
5 -I carefully and tediously cut them out with a pair of tinsnips. Same process as #3 for the endplates.
6- I check for burrs, and I place the blades on a hard block, then hit them rapidly (lightly) with a large hammer to make a certain finish, i guess this is blacksmithing?
7 -I get some thin wood in the trim section that i'll use for the V-Channel and Side panels. **In this case I'm just rebuilding the cover from a previous design, so endplates and side panels were already there.**
8 -Wrap electrical tape around 2 wood trim panels,
9- Measure and mark where blades are to go.
10- Using a hacksaw I cut out the blade slots as carefully as I can (15 slots) The wood panels are taped together tightly to allow sawing both at the same time in the same exact places
11- Assemble the 2 panels with slots into the V making sure the slots line up. I use hard foam and little wood pieces and I hot glue to fix the V together. I use a huge amount of glue to do this. Very solid
12- I carefully place the V into the already existing frame (endplates and side panels), make sure its symmetrical then I drill 4 screw holes at each end in the endplate and into the V channel end at the same time
13- I went from 11 to 15 blades, so I needed to drill new holes into the side panels for the blade-pins to fit into to hold them in place. Every 4th blade has a long pin at each end, those holes much go all the way through. a second hole needs to be made next to those.
14- I install the first 3 blades. These 3 have a long pin at each end to fit into the side panel. They go in every 4th slot. The pin goes through the wood, gets bent around the grove made on the outside, and pushed back through the second hole. I glue these shut.
15- I install the rest of the blades, they have short pins that rest inside the holes in the wooden sides. It is usually necessary to have to make trims and adjustments with the tin snips often. Blades need to be lightly bent to install and unbent.
16- I put the cover on the fixture to see how it looks and make sure it fits right.
17- I fill in any cracks and holes from previous design with dry wall plaster, let dry. then I sand this off until everything is smooth and level. I then clean off the dust and lightly wipe it down with a damp papertowel or cloth
18- I remove the hanger clips, and take it out back into the shed and paint! A few coats and time later its dry and I then repeat with clear coat. If a mistake happens, I sand the area when fully dry days later and repaint and re-clearcoat the area.
19- Once fully dry I will give it a light polish by just wiping the cover with a satin cloth to smooth it out. I also install the hangerclips back on
20- Done and installed!

Important notes*
The paint must be UV and none yellowing. The white paint should be flat white, the glossy paint tends to be runny and terrible, flat is much more better for this i find. I use the Rust-Oleum brand.
The blade design needs to include a pin at each end to fit into the side panels. 3 blades need a long pin to fix the wooden panel to the blades securely.
Its very time consuming and needs alot of motivation and patience to do, its why it took me ages to do.

This isn't intended to be a guide, but a list of the processes in order that I have followed when working on my covers. The covers were built 2 years ago or so, there was less blades and no V channel, I am simply rebuilding them by modifying the frame, adding more blades and a V channel.

This was my first completed attempt at making louvered fixtures! My designs for future projects are much improved and will be less time consuming, stay tuned!
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