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GE Ecolux F34T12 at EOL

GE Ecolux F34T12 at EOL

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Here’s one of the GE T12’s in my basement that went EOL last weekend. The lamp popped and then the entire tube glowed a dim purple with blackened ends, seen here. My photo here makes the EOL lamp appear brighter than it actually is. It’s really interesting to see a fluorescent EOL show up close.

IMG_2245.jpg IMG_1890.jpg D78AEC79-0E9F-4A95-98BC-C7D42AB39609.jpeg IMG_0884.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:General Electric
Lamp
Lamp Type:F34T12 Fluorescent Lamp
Base:T12
Fixture
Location:South Carolina
Electrical
Wattage:34 Watts
Voltage:120 Volts
Optical
Color Temperature:4100K cool white
Color Rendering Index:Very good
Physical/Production
Factory Location:USA
Application/Use:Basement illumination

File information

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Filename:D78AEC79-0E9F-4A95-98BC-C7D42AB39609.jpeg
Album name:CEB1993 / Fluorescent Lights
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:363 KB
Date added:May 01, 2018
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Date Time:2018:04:29 09:54:32
DateTime Original:2018:04:29 09:54:32
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streetlight98
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Mike McCann


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May 01, 2018 at 06:10 PM Author: streetlight98
Wow a 34W EOL? Never actually seen one. Normally they just dim-glow one day and fail to start from what I understand. I did have one unbranded Philips made full mercury F34/CW loose vacuum in one of my grandpa's troffers. Blew like an inch of phosphor off the tube all the way around.

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May 01, 2018 at 06:16 PM Author: Patrick
It looks OK in this photo. Is the other end bad?

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CEB1993
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Camden


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May 01, 2018 at 06:33 PM Author: CEB1993

Wow a 34W EOL? Never actually seen one. Normally they just dim-glow one day and fail to start from what I understand. I did have one unbranded Philips made full mercury F34/CW loose vacuum in one of my grandpa's troffers. Blew like an inch of phosphor off the tube all the way around.


That's what this one did. It began to dim glow, with a slightly darkened end, seen here. I turned it on and off a few times, and it was stuck in the EOL, dim and flickery stage.

Philips DuraMax and GE Miser forever!  Classic incandescents are the best incandescents!

Stop the lamp bans!

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suzukir123
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May 01, 2018 at 07:05 PM Author: suzukir122
@CEB1993, I agree with Patrick... this lamp really does look ok. This might be a case in which the filament separated. Is
this on a rapid start ballast? If so, rapid start ballasts typically have a tough time starting lamps with broken electrode
filaments. All it takes is one separated filament, and the lamp (or both lamps if its a two lamp series circuited fixture)
will fail to light. Also, end blackening would be much more noticeable, and you would've gotten a brief moment of an EOL show,
with brilliant orange flashing from the bad end before the dim, cold cathode stage.
Ahh, looking at this photo a little more, I noticed it's one of those GE starcoat 34 watt lamps. I've had those before.
Their electrode filaments aren't the best...

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Mike McCann


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May 01, 2018 at 07:08 PM Author: streetlight98
There was an old 2X F40/RS strip at the grocery store I used to work at that had a pair of Ecologic Sylvania F34/CW SuperSaver tubes that went EOL. One tube was out completely and the other glowed steadily at one end and gradually got darker until about 2/3 of the way down the tube, where it had progressed to being totally dark. There were occasional flashes too. I ended up bringing in a pair of GE F34CW Ecolux tubes just like the one above to stick in and it came back to life! The strip was originally a preheater but converted to rapid start long ago. There were others like it in the building that were converted to T8 as well as newer slimline strips that were retrofitted to either F96T8 or F32T8 and F32T8 troffers in the store. The store was remodeled and went fully LED inside and out. The 8ft fixtures were replaced with tandem 4ft strips with LED tubes and the F32T8 retrofitted 8ft strips were simply relamped with LED tubes. The troffers and drop ceiling were ripped out and decorative LED low bays were installed. The preheat strips retrofitted to T8 were ripped out and replaced.

The rapid start strip remained though. It is located in an emergency exit stairwell from the second floor, which is just stock. No one uses it. There's even a keyless socket with an old inside frost lamp in it (still works too!). I think it's 130v since it's a dim rich yellow light. No etch but it was an A21, so either an older 100W or 150W lamp.

Anyway, I relamped the strip since I couldn't stand the only T12 light left in the store being in disrepair. I did get caught by the manager on duty though and told not to do that anymore lol (I was a cashier/dairy clerk so I wasn't "qualified to do electrical work". I hardly call changing light bulbs electrical work lol. Ironically I'm an electrician's apprentice now so I'm more than qualified to change bulbs and ballasts )

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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Camden


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May 01, 2018 at 07:22 PM Author: CEB1993

It looks OK in this photo. Is the other end bad?


The other end doesn't look darkened. However, the middle of the tube is dimmer than the ends, and I cannot get it to warm up to full brightness anymore.

Philips DuraMax and GE Miser forever!  Classic incandescents are the best incandescents!

Stop the lamp bans!

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May 01, 2018 at 07:30 PM Author: suzukir122
This lamp is still good... either there is a bad connection somewhere in the sockets, bad wire connection, or a broken filament. lol...
the purple end glow from this end tells me there is no electrode filament heating to this end. Also, if this is rapid start,
this needs the other lamp in order to successfully fire up. lol
If this lamp were really bad and the electrode filament truly ran it's course, there would be much, much more end blackening lol

Interests:
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2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic
3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds
4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs
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Camden


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May 01, 2018 at 07:35 PM Author: CEB1993

This lamp is still good... either there is a bad connection somewhere in the sockets, bad wire connection, or a broken filament. lol...
the purple end glow from this end tells me there is no electrode filament heating to this end. Also, if this is rapid start,
this needs the other lamp in order to successfully fire up. lol
If this lamp were really bad and the electrode filament truly ran it's course, there would be much, much more end blackening lol


Thank you for your help! With my house, there's no telling how old the shop lights and ballasts are, so there are other sources of problems. I'll know for sure when I put in the brand new Philips Alto's, and I'll keep these two GE Ecolux's as spares in case they work in a different fixture.

Philips DuraMax and GE Miser forever!  Classic incandescents are the best incandescents!

Stop the lamp bans!

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May 01, 2018 at 07:37 PM Author: streetlight98
Try this lamp in an electronically-ballasted instant start fluorescent light if you've got one. If they light up you'll know it was just a broken filament, since the instant start ballast will still power the tube without both electrodes intact.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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May 01, 2018 at 07:41 PM Author: suzukir122
They most likely will light. Especially if you use this and the other lamp on an instant start ballast. But this lamp isn't finished just yet. I'm willing to bet it's a broken filament issue... I've had this happen a couple times with these particular 34watt lamps. Philip Alto 34 watt lamps are also notorious for this type of behavior as well.

Interests:
1. Motorcycles, cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent)
2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic
3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds
4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs
Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend

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May 01, 2018 at 07:44 PM Author: streetlight98
I have an F20 Reveal tube that won't even glow on anything but an IS electronic ballast. Lights fine on that. I think there's contamination that makes the starting voltage too high. GEs seem to have an issue with starting on low OCV ballasts to begin with. I noticed they tend to take longer to ramp up on most magnetic RS ballasts compared to other brands.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

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May 01, 2018 at 08:30 PM Author: suzukir122
With the 4 footers, yep... but back when I was using F15T12's inside my trigger start desk lamps (which are all HPF)
they would all fire up almost instantly. Those lamps were serving me very well compared to what I have now. (GE F15t8's, and one philip F15t8)
which also start up decently compared to the 4 footers, but a tad bit slower to start than the T12's.
However, 3 of my GE F15T8 lamps have reached EOL. I'll probably be reverting back to T12, if things get better
over here. Hopefully Sylvania F15T12 cool white lamps. That's my next goal.

Interests:
1. Motorcycles, cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent)
2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic
3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds
4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs
Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend

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May 02, 2018 at 08:46 AM Author: F96T12 DD VHO
My T12s always have really noticable ends that glow purple throught the whole time it's running and every time I strike it

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May 02, 2018 at 11:09 AM Author: jercar954
It must have been on an electronic ballast. I've never seen a 4' T-12 lamp go to air on a magnetic ballast.

Preheat and T-12 fluorescents forever! Down with LED's and instant start T-8 fluorescents.

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May 02, 2018 at 02:58 PM Author: suzukir122
@F96T12 DD VHO, @Jercar954,... I'm kinda confused in terms of what you're saying. lol

Interests:
1. Motorcycles, cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent)
2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic
3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds
4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs
Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend

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