Return to the thumbnail page Display/hide file information See previous file See next file

"Lifelite" brand shop light

"Lifelite" brand shop light

Click to view full size image

This is the older type of low-quality "shop lights" that could be purchased for under $10. Each lamp has a separate choke ballast at each end of the fixture (where the end caps are) and an electronic circuit board containing a sidac starts the lamps with a high voltage pulse, like an HPS ignitor. This usually leads to an instant start but sometimes they will blink if the first start wasn't successful.

Westy_refractor.jpg Adjusta-Post_50w.jpg Lifelite.jpg LOA_HPS50.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Lifelite
Lamp
Lamp Type:Fluorescent, F40T12
Base:Bi-pin
Service Life:10,000 hrs
Fixture
Ballast Type:Choke
Electrical
Wattage:2x 40w
Voltage:120
Optical
Color Temperature:Lamps are 4100K cool white
Color Rendering Index:60
Physical/Production
Dimensions:48"
Fabrication Date:Mid-1980's
Application/Use:Residential shop light

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:Lifelite.jpg
Album name:arcblue / Lighting in captivity
Keywords:Lanterns
File Size:72 KB
Date added:Sep 30, 2006
Dimensions:908 x 599 pixels
Displayed:2364 times
URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-8996
Favorites:Add to Favorites
Comments
jercar954
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 33
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Sep 30, 2006 at 09:13 AM Author: jercar954
The end caps look like GE.

Preheat and T-12 fluorescents forever! Down with LED's and instant start T-8 fluorescents.

don93s
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 425
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Sep 30, 2006 at 09:24 AM Author: don93s
I used to have a bunch of these at work...the bulbs were L.O.A. but resembled the old GE Mainlighters...same end caps, electrode style, etc.
jercar954
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 33
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Sep 30, 2006 at 09:30 AM Author: jercar954
The Mainlighter was the best 4' lamp made in my opinion. Better than it's predecessor, the 3Plus.

Preheat and T-12 fluorescents forever! Down with LED's and instant start T-8 fluorescents.

J-Frog
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 148
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Sep 30, 2006 at 12:05 PM Author: J-Frog
I have one of these fixtures laying around somewhere...

Sometimes, these fixtures ballasts will fail in a way where the lamp sees an extremely high crest factor and dies quickly. A new lamp is put in and will only last a month or so due to the ballast failure...

Jeremiah The Bullfrog

don93s
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 425
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Sep 30, 2006 at 12:20 PM Author: don93s
I did an autopsy on some of those fixtures I had at work...they basically just have a cap, an reacter and a pulse starter like you mentioned. Usually the reacter would short out and the lamp would dim and operate only off of the cap...probably with a huge crest factor and fail in a month. Some times the cap would short and blow the electrodes in the lamp. Sometimes the ballast would get so hot, it melted thru the plastic. Yup, those things were a hoot.




Posts:
View Gallery

View Profile Email
Sep 30, 2006 at 03:46 PM Author:
Sounds like fun to watch these fail and yes these fixtures I beleive were made by L.O.A




Posts:
View Gallery

View Profile Email
Sep 30, 2006 at 03:46 PM Author:
I have one too mine only lights one tube
arcblue
Full Member
***
Offline

Posts: 174
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 01, 2006 at 07:19 PM Author: arcblue
I still have the lamps - they do not have GE end caps, they are unbranded, possibly Philips - the end caps have three indented lines for lining up the lamps in the sockets. One of mine also stopped lighting one lamp, and another started humming very loud. When I moved in, one of the fixtures had blown the electrodes in both tubes.

I was surprised at how small the chokes are and how cheap the capacitor looked. The metal these are made of is very thin, too - I simply folded them in thirds and put them in the trash.

I'm lampin...





Posts:
View Gallery

View Profile Email
Oct 01, 2006 at 08:35 PM Author:
this light is a preheat start......it has electronic starter....but its a preheat start




Posts:
View Gallery

View Profile Email
Oct 01, 2006 at 08:49 PM Author:
I have those and they do great for me....I screwd them from the holes 4 screws....2 big s screws on each ends and 2 long screws in each ends and they do great......and to prevent from bulbs falling...be sure the grooves on the end caps are aligined to the bulb inserter groove....




Posts:
View Gallery

View Profile Email
Oct 01, 2006 at 08:50 PM Author:
oh by the way...be sure that you do NOT use 25 or 32 watts even though the box says that......it kills the ballasts and the capaitor......just use 40 watts.....




Posts:
View Gallery

View Profile Email
May 14, 2008 at 08:43 PM Author:
Mine died a while ago due to a power spike...
J-Frog
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 148
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
May 15, 2008 at 06:17 AM Author: J-Frog
I've got one where both sides have the lamps operating only off the caps. As a result, they are dim and this fixture finds all sorts of lamps yummy and likes to eat them

These fixtures are OK for what they were selling for, and do make a good residential fixture and are easy to put up. I've even seen some last a long time and not fail, like at my uncles house. They seem to be brighter than some of the rapid start and T8 stuff out there, however some rapid start ballasts are just as bright and as for the T8 stuff you need to get ballasts with a ballast factor of 1.0 whereas most are at .8 meaning the lamps are driven at 80% of full power.

Jeremiah The Bullfrog

arcblue
Full Member
***
Offline

Posts: 174
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Jun 03, 2008 at 08:38 PM Author: arcblue
I've seen these in commercial use, running 8 hours, 12 hours, even 24 hours a day and they often hold up quite well. My friend has one now that is running a 34w on one side and a 40w Alto on the other. I kind of miss mine....but out of the three fixtures I had, only one still worked properly and its cord had been spliced to another one by a previous homeowner, so it would have taken some effort to make a new cord for it, so I just threw it away. The strip lights that replaced these are much quieter, more reliable, easier on the lamps & have replaceable parts, well worth the few extra dollars I paid for them.

I'm lampin...

J-Frog
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 148
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Jun 03, 2008 at 08:46 PM Author: J-Frog
These are really meant for residental use, this is where they seem to shine!

Jeremiah The Bullfrog

arcblue
Full Member
***
Offline

Posts: 174
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 25, 2009 at 08:59 PM Author: arcblue
So I learned that the "Lifelite" designation was a product line of Lights of America. In a way I wish I had kept one of these fixtures. I wouldn't call them preheat-start as they really don't have a mechanism to "preheat" the lamp filaments - they just induce a high voltage to instant-start the lamp using simple choke-cap-ignitor circuitry rather than a legitimate instant-start ballast. I love the way the tube ends flash blue/purple at startup when tortured like this

I'm lampin...

icefoglights
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 628
View Gallery

ITT Low Pressure Sodium NEMA


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Nov 22, 2009 at 12:22 PM Author: icefoglights
When my family was building our house, we ran several LOA branded versions of this as temporary lights running off a gas generator. In winter when we would try to run them, they would keep the starters running, usually severly blackening the ends of the tubes, sometimes even burning the phosphor off. This lead to ballast failure which led to the rapid demise of replacement tubes. After the second set of tubes we trashed them and went with incandescent clip lights.

01010010 01101111 01100010 01100101 01110010 01110100

lightman64
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 357
View Gallery

Zero 88 Lighting Controls Rule!


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Nov 22, 2009 at 01:10 PM Author: lightman64
Found a pair of these in my neighbors trash. They seem to work pretty good. Not sure what ill use them for though....

The future of street lighting is Induction, not nasty HPS lights or cr@ppy LED lights!
Preheat CFL's should make a comeback!

tmcdllr
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 164
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Jul 12, 2010 at 01:39 AM Author: tmcdllr
Another amazingly crappy LOA product, although the older ones seem to hold up better. Well, what do you expect for $10! I used to sell these and knowing about their low quality I always pushed the slightly more expensive, more reliable magnetic ballasted shoplights we also sold, never had a complaint about them.

Nothing like the beautiful cool white light of a coated Mercury Vapor lamp and the soothing hum of it's magnetic ballast.

dor123
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2457
View Gallery
Other loves are computers, office equipment, A/Cs


View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Jul 12, 2010 at 01:59 AM Author: dor123
I bet these lamp will have very short life. This is like operating a fluorescent lamp with a HPS semiparallel ignitor. So when the lamp reaches EOL, they will strobe like a xenon flash tube at low intensity or a HPS lamp operated with a semiparallel ignitor (3-4 pulses per sec).
Btw i have in my father former home an AMAL brand halophoshpor CFL lamp that strobed like that at EOL.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

arcblue
Full Member
***
Offline

Posts: 174
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 26, 2010 at 07:25 PM Author: arcblue
Provided you don't switch the lamps on or off too often, they seem to last for years. The lamps that came from these fixtures that I had are still in use and in good condition and they are maybe 15-20 years old.

And yes, it does seem to be set up like an HPS ignitor tapped off the ballast, and will pulse/flicker a bad lamp as it tries to start it. What happened to the first one I had, was the lamps would flicker on and then went out when the cathodes blew. Several years after lamp replacement, the ignitor failed.

I'm lampin...

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 26, 2010 at 07:44 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@dor123 the lamps can actually last fairly long time on these when they're working correctly... but once the ballasts burn up they'll light about half brightness and kill lamps in a fairly short period.

These lights lack thermal protection on the ballasts which is what makes them such junk.

The thing that's most prone to fail isn't the ballast, but is the 'starter' boards (then ofcourse the lamp just doesn't light at all...and you can't buy parts) A FS-4 starter won't work (does nothing), With a FS-2 starter the lamp will just keep blinking (and its overdriving the starter)...Maybe a FS-U (universal) would work???

You can make it light by manual preheating.

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

High Intensity
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 108
View Gallery

Sylvania 100w /DX MV Cold Startup


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 04:19 AM Author: High Intensity
I have the same light fixture but mine is in rough shape but the ballasts and lamps still work.

Is it worth keeping at all?

Old lighting is, and will always be, the best lighting.

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 08:13 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@a lamp:
As long as it works, you might as well keep using it If it has the original LOA brand lamps, those might be worth saving!

A couple suggestions to prevent fried ballasts:
* Don't use 34w lamps
* Replace lamps before they go EOL
* Don't operate in tempratures below zero (Probably not an issue since it says your location is California )

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

High Intensity
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 108
View Gallery

Sylvania 100w /DX MV Cold Startup


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 08:17 PM Author: High Intensity
It has some no-name lamps with it, are those the LOA lamps?

Old lighting is, and will always be, the best lighting.

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 09:06 PM Author: xmaslightguy
No, the LOA ones had the LOA circle logo, and either said "LOA" or "Lights Of America" on the etch (I can't remember which now, as its been a long time since the ones I had went EOL .. I also had multiple F15T8 LOA lamps, not sure if I even have any of those left - I'd have to go digging to even see. Wish I woulda kept atleast one of both sizes)

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

High Intensity
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 108
View Gallery

Sylvania 100w /DX MV Cold Startup


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 09:31 PM Author: High Intensity
Well, the no-name lamps is what it came with.

Old lighting is, and will always be, the best lighting.

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 10:13 PM Author: xmaslightguy
Yep some came with those no-name's (I believe they also had Philips at some point too),
I think the LOA lamps were in the first-generation of fixtures.

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

High Intensity
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 108
View Gallery

Sylvania 100w /DX MV Cold Startup


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 27, 2017 at 10:36 PM Author: High Intensity
Are they still keepers?

Old lighting is, and will always be, the best lighting.

toomanybulbs
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Posts: 324
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 28, 2017 at 05:50 PM Author: toomanybulbs
basement of the shop had about 12 of these.as they blew up i trashed them.i threw out 4 in one day.
seems if you dont catch a dead tube fast they self destruct.
cheap and disposable.
whats funny is a neighbor grabs any metal i set out.there is a jeep j20 pickup out there with part of its floor and bed repaired with bits of these.
not a whole lot of metal in these things.i joked that the truck was now mostly tv screen backs and shoplight shells!
xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 28, 2017 at 07:11 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@a lamp:
Do they have any sort of etch, or just a truly blank lamp? Maybe do a pic of the end?


@toomanybulbs:
LOL when reading " i joked that the truck was now mostly tv screen backs and shoplight shells! "

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

High Intensity
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 108
View Gallery

Sylvania 100w /DX MV Cold Startup


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 28, 2017 at 07:14 PM Author: High Intensity
@xmaslightguy
All they say is f40t12 cool white USA
I can't take a photo right now since I'm on vacation, but once I get home I can take one.

Old lighting is, and will always be, the best lighting.

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 28, 2017 at 08:12 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@a lamp:
Could be a Philips-made lamp.
I've got these that were sold by a local hardware store as a generic/un-branded lamp but are actually Philips..

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

High Intensity
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 108
View Gallery

Sylvania 100w /DX MV Cold Startup


GoL
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 28, 2017 at 08:15 PM Author: High Intensity
That lamp looks just like lamps that came with the fixture.

Old lighting is, and will always be, the best lighting.

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Apr 28, 2017 at 08:28 PM Author: xmaslightguy
Yep, then they're Philips lamps
Decent quality, & should have a good lifespan, but they're nothing real special..

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

videobruce
Newbie
*
Offline

Posts: 1
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 12:04 PM Author: videobruce
I stumbled across this thread doing a search.

I have four of these 'shop lights'. I don't recall when I bought them, it was at a local hardware chain, but I bet it was at least 15 years ago. I also don't recall if they came with tubes or not.

At present they are all using 25 watt GE 'cool' tubes. I'm pretty sure the tubes have been changed out from whatever was used as original. I never had a problem with them. What caught my eye other then this more than weird ballast (if you call it that) is the recommendation NOT to use 25w tubes. These are not used that often, I wired them via outlets so to make it easy to remove and service instead of hard wiring them per a suggestion my a electrician friend I use to work with.

Anyway, what I want to do is replace the fluorescent tubes with LED tubes, but this 'weird' ballast arrangement has me puzzled. I didn't take any pics, which I may, but I opened one of those 2" square plastic enclosures and found two rows (one for each tube no doubt) of components. I also noticed that there are transformers are each end of the fixture behind the 'tombstones' which was equally as odd.

I did this on 3 old school commercial fixtures with magnetic ballasts which I acquired from a school I worked at in their maintenance department when they upgraded their fixtures by removing the ballast and using "ballast bypass" LED tubes. This is completely different. There are LED tubes that can be used with electronic ballasts, but I'm not sure if this qualifies.

From the previous discussion on this type of ballast, anyone else have anything to add?
wattMaster
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2003
View Gallery


View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 02:19 PM Author: wattMaster
You might have better luck getting a response in the forums section, but some advice I have is to not install the LED tubes.

SLS! <click

videobruce
Newbie
*
Offline

Posts: 1
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 02:48 PM Author: videobruce
I posted this here since it concerns the exact same model. Actually, I thought this was a forum.
wattMaster
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2003
View Gallery


View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 02:58 PM Author: wattMaster
I was talking about the plain text forum.

SLS! <click

videobruce
Newbie
*
Offline

Posts: 1
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 03:04 PM Author: videobruce
Rodger, I send a message for this to be moved. Thanks.
streetlight98
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 323
View Gallery

Mike McCann


GoL 88219189@N04/albums
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 03:23 PM Author: streetlight98
LED tubes will most likely not work in these crappy fixtures, if that's what you were asking. I would recommend just getting new fixtures. These are disposable units and not really made to be serviceable, unfortunately.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 03:54 PM Author: xmaslightguy
@videobruce:
Don't use the LED tubes for electronic ballasts with these...you'll at minimum fry the starter circuit, and maybe the ballast too..
Your best bet would be to disconnect the ballast/etc and simply re-wire for using the ballast-bypass type LED tubes.

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

videobruce
Newbie
*
Offline

Posts: 1
View Gallery

View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 04:59 PM Author: videobruce
I figured with this unorthodox design, regular LED tubes (for electronic ballasts) would probably not work. I surely wouldn't try one at random.
It's easy to bypass that mini circuit board, I haven't looked into removing those xformers at each end yet. The fixture otherwise is reasonable sturdy, I don't see a big issue with that. I have had more problems with older commercial fixtures that are snapped together at the ends compared to this.

(Now I'll have to look into these LED streetlights. Sorry, I couldn't resist )
streetlight98
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 323
View Gallery

Mike McCann


GoL 88219189@N04/albums
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 05:19 PM Author: streetlight98
Leds will definitely be better than these. These things severely underpower the tubes. But an industrial grade full power f40t12 fixture would be way brighter than the leds.

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

Patrick
Webmaster
Sr. Member
*****
Offline

Posts: 424
View Gallery


LightingGallery
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 06:14 PM Author: Patrick
We don't actually have the ability to simply move a photo comment thread to a forum post, unfortunately.

I did come across a YouTube video of somebody converting a similar fixture to ballast-bypass LED.

If you're currently using 25W T12s, those should be OK. They are electrically identical to 40W, but have less rugged electrodes that are cheaper and also not subject to as stringent federal efficiency standards (or at least this was the case until 2012). So I wouldn't be concerned about using them. 25W T8 (or any T8 wattage), as well as 34W T12 should not be used in these fixtures. It may seem odd that 25W T12 is OK while 34W is not, but that's because 25W is merely a 40W intended to be under driven, while 34W actually has a different gas fill which can make them problematic in these shoplights.

Patrick C., Administrator
Lighting-Gallery.net

streetlight98
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 323
View Gallery

Mike McCann


GoL 88219189@N04/albums
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 06:42 PM Author: streetlight98
Wow cool video. I didn't know you could really open these up (never tried though, so didn't know either way). Most people probably wouldn't take the time to do it but if you've got the extra time and patience I'd go for it! These fixtures give T12s a bad name so making it LED will at least give you some decent light output..

To resist is to piss in the wind, anyone who does will end up smelling.

nicksfans
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 784
View Gallery

Down with lamp bans!


GoL the.baus.of.all.bauses UCDl2EWWZc9h1IZXcfGU9OZA nicksfans
View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 06:45 PM Author: nicksfans
I'd just do what the guy in the YouTube video did.

I like my lamps thick, my ballasts heavy, and my fixtures tough.

My Gallery
Instagram
YouTube

xmaslightguy
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 755
View Gallery

^homebuilt fixture


GoL ATL
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Oct 15, 2017 at 07:29 PM Author: xmaslightguy
That vid...
I never knew a 2-foot version of these fixtures existed. I kinda want one like that with the green ends

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

© 2005-2019 Lighting-Gallery.net | Powered by: Coppermine Photo Gallery