Return to the thumbnail page Display/hide file information See previous file See next file

More Classic F40 Tubes

More Classic F40 Tubes

Click to view full size image

Here are a few more classics for my collection: Sylvania Lifeline, Cool White Mainlighter, and two red etch 35 watt Watt-Misers.

I picked these up this morning when I replaced a ballast in the basement of a friend's church building. All the lights in the basement have cool white Mainlighters, all in good shape. The lights are rarely used, so they have never had to change the lamps.

I saw these in the corner and hoped that they were new old stock since they were in a box. They are all well used, however, but still working.

I had to change the ballast probably because one of the tubes has only been half in its socket on one end for the past 35 years. The tubes are still good but the ballast is shot.

1~1.JPG A0057214.jpg lamps.JPG ballast~3.jpg

File information

File information

Download: Download this File
Filename:lamps.JPG
Album name:nogden / Fluorescent
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:52 KB
Date added:May 18, 2010
Dimensions:802 x 768 pixels
Displayed:439 times
Date Time:2010:05:18 19:37:07
DateTime Original:2010:05:18 19:37:07
Exposure Bias:0.5 EV
Exposure Time:1/10 sec
FNumber:f 4
Flash:No Flash
Focal length:45 mm
ISO:200
Make:Canon
Model:Canon EOS D60
White Balance:0
URL:https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-44690
Favorites:Add to Favorites
Comments
Miles
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
May 18, 2010 at 08:00 PM Author: Miles
Didn't know you could kill a ballast by only having one pin in each sockets. I'm not talking about arcing.
don93s
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
May 18, 2010 at 08:29 PM Author: don93s
I doubt having one pin connected will kill ballast. Heat is the killer for ballasts but one pin connected won't make them run hotter. Neither will leaving in a bad lamp...unless it's a rectifying slimline or a 14w-15w trigger start lamp.
J-Frog
Full Member
***
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
May 18, 2010 at 09:54 PM Author: J-Frog
The ballast death was probably a fluke in this case.

Jeremiah The Bullfrog

streetlight98
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery

Mike McCann


GoL Mike McCann 88219189@N04/albums
View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 18, 2012 at 03:22 PM Author: streetlight98
What time frame were those red-etched GEs made? My great-aunt has a couple of those in an RS strip lite in her garage.

Please check out my newly-updated website! McCann Lighting Company is where my street light collection is displayed in detail.

jercar954
Newbie
*
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 18, 2012 at 03:28 PM Author: jercar954
Nice find! Looks like that cardboard box held Watt Miser lamps. The lamps themselves looked mid -late 70's except the Lifeline which is from 9/76. I can't tell the age on the Mainlighter as the etch is too light.

Preheat and T-12 fluorescents forever! Down with LED's and instant start T-8 fluorescents.

Ash
Hero Member
*****
Offline

View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 18, 2012 at 03:57 PM Author: Ash
A lamp on Rapid Start with 1 pin out of the socket may rectify (because 1 electrode is not heated), if this happens this explains the damage to the ballast

On Switch Start (Preheat) or other system that supply the arc current from 1 pin only (so not Rapid Start), i can think of another option too : Arcing in series with a lamp on the lead side of the ballast can cause higher current than normal, again damaging the ballast. But if this happened i think the arcing would burn the socket and lamp pins quite severely
dor123
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery
Other loves are computers, office equipment, A/Cs


View Profile WWW Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 19, 2012 at 04:53 AM Author: dor123
Rapidstart is probably the ballast with the highest losses from the rest types of ballast configurations, because it is the only type of ballast that continues to apply current to the electrodes and heat them, when the discharge already struck and the lamp is in operation mode (In a preheat ballast, the electrodes are heated by passing current only before the lamp starting, and the rest of the time is like slimlines [Electrodes heated by the discharge itself])

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

don93s
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Aug 19, 2012 at 01:17 PM Author: don93s
Ash, if the ballast is HPF, lamp won't rectify...only glow dim in cold cathode. If ballast is NPF and does rectify, it still won't overheat as long as it is on 40w lamp. The 40w lamps are underdriven on RS NPF ballasts; I have never seen one get hot with a 40w lamp rectifying. A 34w would be a different story.
ace100w120v
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 02, 2014 at 08:41 PM Author: ace100w120v
A rectifying 34w could cause things to get ugly?
don93s
Sr. Member
****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 02, 2014 at 11:16 PM Author: don93s
Depends on the ballast. If it is a 40w only NPF ballast, a 34w might cause it to overheat...if not in normal operation, then possibly when rectifying. I'm just staying on the safe side here, lol.
ace100w120v
Hero Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


View Profile Personal Message (Offline)
Mar 05, 2014 at 07:39 PM Author: ace100w120v
I've always wondered how a cold, striating 34w lamp would look rectifying. Might have to intentionally put only one pin in the socket to see...
© 2005-2020 Lighting-Gallery.net | Powered by: Coppermine Photo Gallery