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Sylvania New F40/CWP Mass Warm-Up

Sylvania New F40/CWP Mass Warm-Up


I just replaced all the tubes in this office with new Sylvania F40/CWP tubes. When those tubes are new they sure like to start funny! Some start fine. Others flicker badly and display uneven mercury distribution. This video starts after the lamps had been on about 30 seconds. (I thought I was recording the start-up too but I forgot to hit the record button!).

Clearly some tubes are worse than others. After they are broken in, they start and run just fine.

youtube_TldluZTUOao.jpg HO_Lost_Vacuum.jpg youtube_bneGyjp7wzY.jpg Malcolite.jpg

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Sylvania
Model Reference:F40/CWP
Lamp
Lamp Type:Fluorescent
Base:Medium Bi-Pin
Shape/Finish:T12
Service Life:20,000+
Electrical
Wattage:40 Watt
Optical
Color Temperature:4100K
Physical/Production
Dimensions:4 foot

File information

File information

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Filename:youtube_bneGyjp7wzY.jpg
Album name:nogden / Fluorescent
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:6402 Bytes
Date added:Sep 05, 2013
Dimensions:480 x 360 pixels
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arcblue
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Sep 05, 2013 at 07:04 PM Author: arcblue
I remember when my office was relamped (with Altos) and all the fixtures glowed at the ends and were dim in the centre. It must be the low mercury - I rarely saw that with older lamps unless the room was very cold.

I'm lampin...

dor123
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Sep 05, 2013 at 09:40 PM Author: dor123
This is unusual to see this warm up in T12, since their cold spot is on the center, so I expect them from brighten evenly or in sections, and not like T5 and CFLs.
Generally, you need to run the lamps for at least 5-10 hours to prevent this from happening again at the next turning on.

I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the European date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 230-240V, 50hz country.

Powergroove
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Sep 06, 2013 at 08:34 AM Author: Powergroove
Ive had some lamps that wouldnt even start because of this. Put them on a NST then they would start on F40 RS ballast. They were 4 foot super savers with that nasty green label. Also some 2 foot philips with those nasty green end caps wouldn't start on preheat until I started them on rapid start first. Lamp quality has sure gone down hill since all these regulations have been imposed.

Keep government out of the lighting industry.

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jonathon.graves johng917 GeorgiaJohn
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Sep 06, 2013 at 11:09 AM Author: DieselNut
I have had F96T12/HO tubes do this, as well as F40T12s. Only when first lit or after being stored for a long time. Even have had some of the F90T17s to act this way on first lighting.

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!

nogden
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Sep 06, 2013 at 11:16 AM Author: nogden
I do wonder how much of this is a result of storage and/or temperature. I had a pair of these lamps exhibit this problem to the extreme a while ago, but I had brought the tubes in from very cold temperatures and turned them on right away. In this case, the tubes were slightly cool. The fact that some exhibited the problem worse than others here might be because some were a little warmer (were installed in warm fixtures) whereas others hadn't warmed up yet.
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Sep 06, 2013 at 12:12 PM Author: Ash
Or they were near the side in the 25 lamp box while others were deeper in

But isnt it a coincidence that both "worst" lamps are in the same lantern ? Maybe the ballast there is heating the lamps less ? Would be interesting to exchange the tubes in it and in another lantern (before anybroke in significantly) and see which one is the real cause
nogden
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Sep 06, 2013 at 12:36 PM Author: nogden
I think the worst one here was the pair I installed last (so they didn't have time to warm up before I turned them on).
RyanF40T12
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Oct 09, 2014 at 08:08 PM Author: RyanF40T12
On the fixtures I am converting from T12 to T8, I'll warm up the new T8 lamps for a few min using the T12 ballasts before removing them. Seems to eliminate the dim start up issues rather nicely

The more you hate the LED movement, the stronger it becomes.

nicksfans
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Down with lamp bans!


GoL the.baus.of.all.bauses UCDl2EWWZc9h1IZXcfGU9OZA nicksfans
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Oct 09, 2014 at 08:23 PM Author: nicksfans
Why aren't the inner lamps lit in any of the fixtures? Are they switched separately?

I like my lamps thick, my ballasts heavy, and my fixtures tough.

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nogden
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Oct 10, 2014 at 06:52 AM Author: nogden
Yes, I put the inner lamps and outer lamps on separate switches. Good question! Most of the time, the occupant doesn't need lights that are that bright. Usually one switch is enough. If they are having something big, then they can turn on both switches.
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jonathon.graves johng917 GeorgiaJohn
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Oct 10, 2014 at 08:29 AM Author: DieselNut
That is my favorite kind of setup. The best one I have seen (and one I plan to duplicate in my farm shop office at some point) is to have one pair of 3000 or 3500K tubes and the other pair 5000 or 6500K in each fixture.

Preheat Fluorescents forever!
I love diesel engines, rural/farm life and vintage lighting!

nogden
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Oct 10, 2014 at 09:32 AM Author: nogden
That sounds like a good idea!
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