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Ikea cfl converted to preheat

Ikea cfl converted to preheat

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As I like cfls using magnetic ballasts better then electronic ones and the fact that they are rare nowadays I've converted an Ikea cfl to preheat. On the picture some of the important steps are shown. The last step was to glue the glas-bulb back to the base. I am using a pl-ballast for 7,9,11 watts which is still available in the shops. Of course this is quite dangerous because this lamp must not be used in a normal fixture using 230 volts.
Enjoy

2011-10-29_14_50_19.jpg tube_exchange.jpg selfmadebattery.jpg cfl_to_preheat_project.jpg

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Filename:cfl_to_preheat_project.jpg
Album name:Prismatic / Projects / Mods
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Keywords:Miscellaneous
File Size:74 KB
Date added:Nov 02, 2009
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Medved
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Nov 02, 2009 at 12:41 PM Author: Medved
This creation is the only CFL, that has at least a chance to survive in a tight lantern something close to rated life...

No more selfballasted c***

arcblue
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Nov 02, 2009 at 08:57 PM Author: arcblue
Cool idea! So this is a remote-ballast compact fluorescent?

I'm lampin...

Prismatic
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Manuel


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Nov 03, 2009 at 03:10 AM Author: Prismatic
Yes. The ballast is external - this here was my first "revision" but it has difficulties to strike - maybe because of the small tube-diameter. My made the same mod with the classic 11 watt ikea cfls which came in a 3 pack and they work perfect. The only think I don't like with this construction is the danger of using them accidently in a nornal fixture with 230 volts - does anyone know what exactly would happen? Explosion, short cut???

Prismatic@YouTube:

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Medved
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Nov 03, 2009 at 01:08 PM Author: Medved
For sure the effective mains-short, so think explosion of the arctube or starter (or both) and the circuit breaker trip. So better glue the outer back, at least to avoid the glassy mess...

Btw you might use it still with the original electronic ballast (placed in remote box) - connect it to pins, where the PTC is not connected. The starter serves then two purposes:
- During ignition limit the voltage, so prevent cold start (to some extend), making it effectively RS (good lamp ignite usually sooner then the starter closes)
- At the EOL it short-out (except for short restrike attempts) the lamp, so prevent the ballast operating in the high-voltage-high-current mode, so prevent ballast components overheat.
As side-effect you would see the end of lamp life approaching (so the time to prepare replacement), as the lamp start to be "blink happy" (the starter closes sooner then the lamp ignite, so the starter make few cycles before successful ignition)
At least these are my experiences from operating PL-S CFL's (those intended for serial choke only) on HF electronic ballasts.

Anyway make sure you are using higher trigger voltage starter (the "single" or "30..80W" marked type)

No more selfballasted c***

Prismatic
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Nov 04, 2009 at 12:29 AM Author: Prismatic
Thanks medved for your interesting remarks. The original ballast does have a PTC, seems to be a good megaman ballast but of course I also have some cheaper instant start ballast with no ptc from same wattage.

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