This creation is the only CFL, that has at least a chance to survive in a tight lantern something close to rated life...

Cool idea! So this is a remote-ballast compact fluorescent?

Yes. The ballast is external - this here was my first "revision" but it has difficulties to strike - maybe because of the small tube-diameter. My made the same mod with the classic 11 watt ikea cfls which came in a 3 pack and they work perfect. The only think I don't like with this construction is the danger of using them accidently in a nornal fixture with 230 volts - does anyone know what exactly would happen? Explosion, short cut???

For sure the effective mains-short, so think explosion of the arctube or starter (or both) and the circuit breaker trip. So better glue the outer back, at least to avoid the glassy mess...

Btw you might use it still with the original electronic ballast (placed in remote box) - connect it to pins, where the PTC is not connected. The starter serves then two purposes:
- During ignition limit the voltage, so prevent cold start (to some extend), making it effectively RS (good lamp ignite usually sooner then the starter closes)
- At the EOL it short-out (except for short restrike attempts) the lamp, so prevent the ballast operating in the high-voltage-high-current mode, so prevent ballast components overheat.
As side-effect you would see the end of lamp life approaching (so the time to prepare replacement), as the lamp start to be "blink happy" (the starter closes sooner then the lamp ignite, so the starter make few cycles before successful ignition)
At least these are my experiences from operating PL-S CFL's (those intended for serial choke only) on HF electronic ballasts.

Anyway make sure you are using higher trigger voltage starter (the "single" or "30..80W" marked type)

Thanks medved for your interesting remarks. The original ballast does have a PTC, seems to be a good megaman ballast but of course I also have some cheaper instant start ballast with no ptc from same wattage.