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Feit LED Tube

Feit LED Tube

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Picked this up at Home Depot to try. Seems to work OK on a low-power-factor single-lamp ballast.

It instant-starts.

It does have 60Hz flicker.

14w, 1700 lumens...(although it visually appears pretty decent).

I think I'm going to buy more of these.

IMG_3776.JPG IMG_3698.JPG IMG_3602.JPG IMG_3546.JPG

Light Information

Light Information

Manufacturer:Feit Electric
Lamp
Lamp Type:LED tube
Base:G13/medium bipin
Shape/Finish:T8
Electrical
Wattage:14
Optical
Lumen Output:1700
Color Temperature:4100K

File information

File information

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Filename:IMG_3602.JPG
Album name:ace100w120v / LEDs
Keywords:Lamps
File Size:320 KB
Date added:Mar 30, 2018
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Date Time:2018:03:30 16:18:40
DateTime Original:2018:03:30 16:18:40
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Lightingguy1994
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Mar 31, 2018 at 06:00 AM Author: Lightingguy1994
Neat! Hopefully the pins at each end are not shunted, some members have advised me for that it is possible with some retrofit tubes
gamebox
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Mar 31, 2018 at 07:41 AM Author: gamebox
Most LED light sources I've seen until recently were around 80-100 lm/W. LED tubes I came across were for example 18W 1600-1700 lm, best LED bulbs come at about 1300 lm from 14W. Are you sure about the power rating of your tubes? Any real time consumption test and metering? Some CFLs stated rated power of the tube on the packaging, not calculating the few watts lost in ballasts.
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Mar 31, 2018 at 11:34 AM Author: Patrick
Those Feit lamps support a wide variety of ballasts, but the power consumption and light output can vary (as noted in the fine print). I prefer them on HF due as the flicker on conventional gear is worse than fluorescent.

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ace100w120v
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Mar 31, 2018 at 10:41 PM Author: ace100w120v
Never thought about the shunting, in theory this would be a direct short on the heater circuits. I'd think that would trip a breaker instantly. More likely I assume the heater circuit isn't used at all here...
Lightingguy1994
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Apr 21, 2018 at 10:32 AM Author: Lightingguy1994
In my past experience, when i shorted the heater circuit in a GE gold label, it just stopped working, no breakers popped or any sign of distress. The ballast itself would still work if i could manage to manually start the lamps with a plasma ball or by flicking the switch rapidly.
xmaslightguy
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^homebuilt fixture


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Apr 21, 2018 at 01:51 PM Author: xmaslightguy
Quote
in theory this would be a direct short on the heater circuits. I'd think that would trip a breaker instantly.

Its a short on the low-voltage/filament-heater part of the ballast only...that'll not put much of a load on the mains/input side of the ballast, so it'll never trip the breaker.
It may very well overheat the ballast & trip its thermal protection...or simply fry low-voltage part (like happened to Lightingguy1994)

Colored Fluorescent's such as F40T12 Red or  Green or Blue are awesome...

ace100w120v
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Apr 21, 2018 at 04:06 PM Author: ace100w120v
I've since had a "regular" lamp back on this ballast with no issue.
Lightingguy1994
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Apr 21, 2018 at 08:13 PM Author: Lightingguy1994
There is probably a diode or something in the endcaps of the LED tube to prevent shorting, which is good
ace100w120v
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Apr 21, 2018 at 10:54 PM Author: ace100w120v
That said, I suppose the rationale with the others is that you have no reason to go back to actual T12s...
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