This is something I didn't think I would ever get to work. This is my GE F34CW/C41/ECO running straight from 120V, using an incandescent lamp as a ballast. I've tried before to get both of my 34 watt lamps to start on an incandescent ballast, with no success - 120V alone simply can't initiate ionization across a krypton-laced four-foot lamp.

What I did get to work was to first start the lamp using my 13-22 choke, introduce the incandescent lamp in parallel with it, then remove the choke. I used a 75 watt lamp, which provides 0.40A of current. Oddly enough, I can start the lamp on the choke alone, but I can't start it with the choke and the incandescent lamp at the same time. I guess since the incandescent lamp has lower impedance than the choke, less current flows through the choke than if the choke was used alone, and the inductive kick is lessened.

I ran this setup for an hour, and it worked flawlessly. The lamp was very stable, with no flickering. I measured an arc voltage of 75V, which is certainly within limits for a 120V OCV. Whenever I powered off the setup, I had no problem restarting the lamp.

I was unable to reenact this with my Sylvania SuperSaver, which is always more stubborn to start than the GE. Every time the starter opened I could see a glow appear a third of the way up each end of the lamp, but the inductive kick wasn't enough to penetrate all the way.