All u do is treat it like your wiring up a single lamp preheat circuit .
Hot — ballast— pin one. From there pin two to starter block
From starter block to Pin 3 on the other end of the lamp. Pin 4 is your neutral common connection.
Remove any ignitor.
It domt even have to be hps ballast
You can even double up on preheat chokes in
Parallel for F18t12 HO all the way too F36T12
With same wiring diagram above applies to using longer lamps on hid ballast. 100! CWA mercury ballast works better on
110 watt HO as it helps out on lamp starting. The UK in early days been running 80 watt 5 foot lamps and 125 watt 8 foot lamps on mercury chokes. But here on US side of pond we have to do it with Auto transformer ballast.
Let me give u some links to my channel. It been a chilly and battling with rolling black outs in Texas.
Here one using Kinoflo 120 watt tube and a Canada market advance ballast
https://youtu.be/-mB4Xtkee10 Here Video using F30T12HO on two 20 watt fluorescent chokes in parallel on 120 volt OCV
https://youtu.be/-PUguBm8De8 Far as runing F24T12 slimeline lamps
Goes. Since your really cant preheat cathodes
And the arc voltage about same as F20T12 bipin lamps
Only thing u can do is using a common F20T12 ballast
But u wire starter across ballast output and Neutral including the lamp. The inductive kick will start the lamp
But it going long blinky start up until lamp strikes an arc,.