Hi All,

I have this security light above the apartment common basement door. 

There's a wooded area beyond the parking.   This light attracts a lot of bugs and things. 

The label says:  Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M, MV 175W, 4Amp.   

I'd like to do a possible mod/conversion or total replacement for an Amber/Bug light type color of light. 

Any ideas?  I don't know of a bug light type of direct-bulb replacement.   Is there? 

Hi All,

I have this security light above the apartment common basement door.  

There's a wooded area beyond the parking.   This light attracts a lot of bugs and things.  

The label says:  Cooper Lighting, Model NH1204M, MV 175W, 4Amp.  

I'd like to do a possible mod/conversion or total replacement for an Amber/Bug light type color of light.  

Any ideas?  I don't know of a bug light type of direct-bulb replacement.   Is there?  

You could use a mogul to medium adapter, then use an incandescnet bug light. It will be slightly underdriven on the MV ballast, but it would work.
Another option would be to tint the refractor yellow. You would need to find some sort of yellow transparent paint (acrylic might work) and use a /DX coated lamp in it. It would probably work better with a 175w MH lamp (more yellow), but there is no guarantee that it will always start reliably.
You could also convert it to 18w Low-pressure sodium. You can run them on a fluorescent ballast, but I don't know much about them other than that. You will probably have to get help from another member here who is more knowledgeable about LPS lamps.
Last option (A crazy idea) A caution yellow 175w merc lamp. These are extremely rare, and I don't know if a 175w version exists. They have a yellow-tinted glass, but if you find one, it is not advisable to use it because of the rarity.
Hope I helped.

DO NOT USE AN INCANDESCENT LAMP ON THE MERCURY BALLAST!!!!!!!!
I will gladly send you a few bug lights and a mogul base to medium adaptor, for the 175 watt ballast. Pm if interested.
Also, is the fixture a NEMA head with a latch on lens assembly or is it a crappy yardblaster?
If it is a NEMA, I will send you one of my NEMA brackets and an adapter. Just be sure to include the power input and neutral in cables to the ballast. Thanks.

Okay, I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but you could just convert it to HPS. Or, if you don't hnow much about wiring, I am sure someone here would be able to trade the fixture for an HPS unit.

Yeah, but I also noticed my 100w HPS unit attracted tons of moths and flies.

...Is the fixture a NEMA head with a latch on lens assembly or is it a crappy yard-blaster?

Ah, I guess a yard-blaster.   I'll be posting pics soon.  It had a plastic lens surrounding it, but had become brittle and only a little was remaining, so I broke off and removed the rest. 




.

HPS does attract bugs, but looks like it isnt too bad

Consider underdriving the lamp a bit - lower power - lower pressure - lower blue content in the light output. Basically, you have to pick a ballast so that the designed arc voltage of the ballast is same or a bit lower than that of the lamp. I dont know how it goes with US lamps..... Over here in 240V/50Hz-hemisphere you would possibly get it with 150W lamp on 100W ballast

Consider underdriving the lamp a bit - lower power - lower pressure - lower blue content in the light output. Basically, you have to pick a ballast so that the designed arc voltage of the ballast is same or a bit lower than that of the lamp. I dont know how it goes with US lamps..... Over here in 240V/50Hz-hemisphere you would possibly get it with 150W lamp on 100W ballast

I was about to say that. This would probably work in the US, but it would probably be better to get a new refractor and tint it yellow.

Yep, I ran a 100watt HPS bulb on a 70 watt ballast and the light produced was a rather displeasing sludgy yellow color. I also ran a 100watt HPS with a 150w ballast, and the light is noticeably whiter, same principle with white son bulbs.

See how hot the ballast gets though - The arc voltage of a lamp that is not warmed up is lower, so that may overheat the ballast....

IIRC, the "Caution Yellow" MV Lamps were only produced in 400W Varieties, and only from the 50s and 60s to the late 1970s, maybe early 80s.  The cost outweighed the results basically.

The Photos:

...And more:

...And yet more:

...And this one: