I bet that current/voltage ratings are close to 80W European tubes, so two 36/40W chokes in parallel may be approximately ok, BUT these are marked as rapid start and so may have trouble to start in preheat mode with a starter because of low-voltage low-impedance filaments. American friends know probably better.

Also there are some obscure high-current electronic ballasts for very high wattage CFLs, capable of running tubes at ~0.86A required. Probably will not preheat the tube properly too, but at least should start it in cold-start mode.

If you can find out the voltage and current, you can calculate the appropriate ballast inductance and get a ballast wound at a transformer winding place.
Alternatively, see if someone has a ballast and an inductance meter.

I have some 100w ballasts for t8 tubes, those are approximately 0,4 henry, so you're probably looking at 0,5H of inductance.

There are quite a lot of Town and Countrys by me also. Mainly white in color and MV. Don't know where they sourced them from, but it's cool.

Going out and about in public with no electronic devices on my person. (My watch is not battery powered.)

These days people seem to have their phones surgically attached to their hands.! 
When we were in London at the beginning of May we looked around us when we were on the train, and we were the only people who weren't glued to the things.!!!

😂

Have you got any gear around that sort of wattage?

hi, i’ve got a Sylvania 85w T12 6ft fluorescent tube (don’t know how it ended up here in italy) and i was wondering how can i run it since i don’t have any specific ballasts for it. thank you very much

Spoilsport...

One of my friends works as a fire investigator, and one time he showed me this burnt up 2x4 troffer from a site. I took a look at it and it looked like it was from the 60s or 70s (had Y-slot lampholders) and it looked like it was retrofitted to T8 electronic from T12 RS. The electronic ballast ballast was spliced into the old ballast wiring which was stranded. The wiring was also a bit of a mess with multiple splices. Generally in a conversion I like to terminate the new ballast directly to the lampholders like in a factory fixture but most people don't due to time and money.

Anyway everything on it was burnt to a nice crisp and everything plastic was melted, one of the lampholders was also burnt away completely too. 

Not sure if the ballast was the cause but it didn't look too budged. Plus electronic ballasts generally don't fail in such a violent manner.

I like to fuse my 2xF40 RS ballasts individually at 1A. It shouldn't trip under normal use but if the ballast starts to act up, you have a better chance of it just blowing the fuse.

I noticed Dollar Tree has the 3 way LED bulbs now, for $1.25. They’re the warm white too, which I prefer. I picked up a couple to try.

It’s nice to finally see AFFORDABLE 3 way LED bulbs, since most, are $6-7 each at other stores.