@LightsAreBright27
I am not familiar with those, but that could actually work. The problem isn't really not being able to draw with my finger, but rather being able to draw complex shapes precisely and easily in some way or another.

Throw all the social network bullcrap away of your life and things will improve at least by 50%, granted. One has to deal with bullies already enough in real life, no need to have them tormenting you on the Internet too.

School stress, especially during exams, is a thing of life and you just have to learn to deal with it. Angry teachers are too, and while I don't justify a teacher being angry at his/her students for futile reasons, they exist and you can't completely avoid them unfortunately. You can only find your way on how to deal with them. Things after school will eventually become even harder because, well, that's adult life (job/colleagues/bosses, bills to pay, responsibilities, etc...), and the sooner you're going to learn how to deal with this stuff the stronger and confident you're going to become.

Take this not as a criticism but as a sincere advice, from a guy that was bullied at school (like many others, by the way...), whose life was fulled with insecurities and psychological issues and is starting now at the age of 40 to deal with them. I understand your struggles.

Regarding LEDs replacing older lights that is making you feeling bad, don't take this as a reason for getting angry or sad. I also don't like all the fluorescent/HID stuff being taken over by LEDs and every time I see a row of HID streetlights being replaced by LEDs I feel slightly annoyed, but I don't see this as a reason to feel really bad and neither should you. As said before, life is already on the hard side, no need to make it harder with trivial things like old lighting technologies being replaced with newer stuff. Do yourself a favor, don't do that. That's by the way a lesson I had to learn myself too so, again, I can understand your feelings on this matter.

Best wishes for all, you can do it.

About PC yellowing reasons, except UV, polycarbonate are too not resistant for longer exposure to heat sources like HID lamps, it also yellowing with HPS which UV radiation is extremely small or nothing, I know yellowing process by heat exposure with HPS depends from the lamphouse size, lamp wattage and ofc polycarbonate quality.
Acrylic (PMMA) also sometimes went milky when was overheated or sometimes when quality was not enough by issues on the production process step, by that it went milky when even working on not that extremely conditions

Toughened glass is more heat and impact resistant than acrylic (PMMA). Acrylic has slightly better transparency than glass and Polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate (PC) is the best solution for vandal proof lighting but lacks on transparency compared to glass and PMMA especially when not UV stabilized. It becomes brittle over the time of use.

What I’ve learned during my years at Schréder is that the best compromise is toughened glass and that’s why so many Schréder lanterns used that material for street lighting like for example the Sapphire, Onyx, DZ and EZ range.

In Russian-speaking countries, the world 'lamp' is too used with a meaning of 'light-source element' like a fluorescent tube or HID lamp, or in the meaning of a light fixture. Or the use is even extended to electron tubes and devices employing them like radios or guitar amps, like 'ламповый усилитель'.

At the home, a term 'lamp' is used in relation to the light fixtures but too, this mainly applied to portable and tabletop lamps. We usually call wall and hanging fixtures more specifically, like 'бра' and 'люстра'. Outdoor streetlight in a plain language is 'фонарь', somewhat old-school sounding. Semi-official name for any luminaire is 'светильник', but it is relatively rarely used in a plain language, more like a term that you encounter in a price-list or some official documents, or related to office lighting.

 

Over here the contractors refer to $)"columns" and "luminaries".

Using lamp to refer to to the actual light emitting device (light bulb) instead of the entire assembly seems to be a more technical thing and is used more on technical lighting literature, electrical and lighting plans for a building, and certification/electric code references.

Usually if lamp is used that way, the assembly that contains the lamp is usually referred to as the luminaire or the fixture in some more informal cases.

In most streetlighting plans here, the fixtures are typically referred to as luminaires but it seems like different places have slightly different terms.

Pretty much everywhere outside of this website, "Lamp" has been used to mean a floor/table lamp. All other light fixtures are called, well, light fixtures . The only places I had seen the word "lamp" used to refer to the light source was on projectors and fluorescent lamp packaging. I thought it was the word the British used for "light bulb" at the time.

But pretty much everyone calls A19 and halogen lamps "light bulbs", whether they're bulbous or not, and fluorescent lamps are "fluorescent bulbs". I try to use those terms when I'm talking to other people about lights.

Interesting how well thought out the slimline systems were with the built in disconnect socket used to interrupt power to the ballast if a lamp is removed.

A similar disconnect was used on some types of single lamp residential LPF ballasts designed for F20 or F40 lamps. The ballast neutral would be run though the lampholder which was a disconnect type designed to break the neutral if a lamp pin wasn't present. The disconnect used only one pin on a standard bipin lamp instead of passing power through the electrodes so regular non shunted lamps can be used, just a special socket for that end. Oddly enough only LPF rapid start style ballasts ever had that feature, two lamp ballasts and HPF ballasts never required disconnect sockets.

I also never seen this system used for electronic instant start systems as well. Bi-pin T8 lamps did shunt the lamp pins but this was done using shunted sockets instead of special shunted lamps, which allowed the same lamp to be used for rapid start and programmed start ballasts as well. Installing a T12 electronic ballast into a existing magnetic slimline fixture typically required rewiring the fixture to bypass the AC disconnects used for the magnetic ballasts.

I recently found a Philips Actinic BL TL40w/10 tube. Unlike my other long BL tubes, this one isn't for any scientific or medical use case, more like a bugzapper lamp. But I've never seen a bugzapper above 2ft (2x 20w). What can be the purpose of this tube?

There ARE large industrial strength bug zappers, even in 4ft tube size!

Othe uses may be photochemical, like photoresist exposure, resin cure rtc...