Actually, last weekend, so I'm a little late:  Wired up the ceiling light in the new room downstairs.  I went with the U-bent fixture that I picked up earlier this year.  However, I'm prepared for anything.  The ceiling box is fan rated, and I used 3-conductor cable running to the switch.  I put backing blocks in for the 2-foot square U-bent fixture, but I also put in another set of backing blocks for a 4-foot linear fixture too.  Almost ready to start hanging some sheetrock on the ceiling.

Those wood plates were always super thick.

Today I prepped one of my snowmobiles for summer storage and put the battery back in the motorcycle for the first time in 2 years.

Yes, along with a couple of MV's that were incomplete...one worked, but the other was questionable.

@wide-lite 1000 - The cover plate has nothing to do with the receptacle wearing out. It’s simply worn out due to the amount of use that it has received because the metal contacts inside spread out over time with use, eventually causing the receptacle to no longer hold plugs as well as it used to.

Great that you replaced it with a hospital grade receptacle. A big step in quality from a (I assume) residential grade receptacle.

The idea of sockets (ok, receptacles, silly word  ) in bathrooms will always scare the crap out of me 

 I replaced both the receptacle and cover plate in my bathroom . The previous brown leviton 15a duplex had gotten worn to the point that plugs wouldn't stay in properly.  The cover plate was one of the real wood ones . It's so thick that the receptacle was slightly recessed by about 1/8" below the face of the cover plate . Is the plate what killed the outlet ? no idea ! I installed a used lighted hospital grade Ivory 15a.with EOL lighting I removed from a truck at work along with a normal plastic cover plate I got from ReStore for 25¢

 This setup consists of a 2 gang box with a switch on one side and the duplex on the other . The switch is still the previously installed brown one .

 Common modern stuff I presume ?

Donated some cobra-heads today to a ReStore affiliate...had way to many (needed the space)...selling and shipping them is a PITA.

Figured out i parted out the wrong Philips SL18. I had two: one worked fine, the other produced a horrible burnt electronics stench.

I had screwed my 'good' one into a socket and after a while... stench. Ugh.

I've now opened up the other one, but i can't really see anything wrong with it. It just runs very hot.

I kept the ballast of the other SL18 so i could conceivably swap them out. But it's hard to get access to it, without damaging the E27 socket. Either way, it's now running without the glass prismatic cover, so i can get an impression of what is running so hot - the ballast or the tube itself. The glass cover would get so hot, that i couldn't hold it for longer than like 5 seconds. That's not normal for an SL...

Might have to build a ring tester to see if the stinky one has a shorted out winding in the ballast. I hope not. One thing's for sure - i can see that the capacitor is undamaged.

There is also another problem with "reducing CWA power by changing the capacitor":
Normally these ballasts are designed with the inductive component in series with the capacitor to be current dependent (shunt saturates, so reduces the inductance when the current goes higher) and by that detune the series LC so the current stays where designed. This current is dictated by the point on which current the shunt saturates. This forms very strong current stabilization mechanism, which suppresses very broad mains voltage variation, as well as to big extent even the capacitor tolerance.
If you just reduce the capacitor, you decrease the lamp power, but the shunt won't be saturating anymore, so the current stabilization effect will be gone.
Does not have to be that much of an issue when the mains voltage and all components stay within tight tolerance or when it is used just to dim a higher power lamp where the tolerance for the exact operating power for that settings is very wide.