I (finally) found a video where some LED lights are accidentally destroyed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8od5EJPRVCA

Interestingly, I managed to get a 10W 4-pin PL-C CFL lamp to fire up on a simple 120V series choke ballast with an external starter hooked up to it and it stayed lit:

https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=4&pid=223218

Bought a new tuner for my mandolin. 
It's one of these, Ria has got one, and as my Snark is always playing up I got one as well. 

The only one I’ve ever seen is the ‘SUPERL ITE’ controversy that kicked off on ATL once! 
Fellow member Kev can explain this better!

I’d have said at first its just the halides being pulled into the arc stream, but I’ve actually, (albeit very rarely), seen mercury arcs pull a tiny pink orb into the arc too!
Wonder if it’s tiny pieces of glowing electrode coming off?

 I've been a member here for 6 yeras now and I see lots of people discussing older HPS or MH fixtures believing that they must've been originally MV and were converted to MH or HPS . Not always the case . I've seen several instances of 60's fixtures which were available in MH and HPS also .  For example , LM Unistyle 400 & Unistyle 1000 were available from the factory in all 3 flavors . The M-400A was also .  Mid 60's Revere catalogs list both MV and "Metallic Additive" versions .

 I've seen some of which more are originally HPS than MV , i.e. AEL 25 , LM Unidoors , M-400A .

 Running the drill slowly is a must as turning it at a high speed just generates heat and kills the bit quickly !

Just spent 5 hours... attempting... to drill out a broken bolt in my rear strut mount of my sport car. Failed miserably.
I've tried right handed drill bits with penetrating oil, left handed drill bits with penetrating oil, several extractors
including the famous "Grabit" extractors. Everything failed, miserably. The Grabit extractor actually slipped out of the
drill.
Either the drill is very weak, or maybe I'm doing something wrong.
And yes, I reversed the drill for the extractors and the left handed drill bits.

I find drilling out stuff like this, it's critical to use a quality drill bit. I usually go with a decent cobalt bit, those go through steel a lot easier than standard HSS bits. The other option would be to attempt to cut the bolt. I used a dremel to cut the bolts on my sway bar links when I replaced them. 

 I quickly learned to apply the brakes on the Mustang using my heel instead of the normal method , your toes . As for the bicycle , last time I went over the bars , I ended up in a blackberry bush !! 

 My most memorable bike incident damn near killed me ! I had bought an old 3-speed bike at a garage sale for next to nothing and rode the daylights out of it . It had the Sturmey-Archer 3-speed mech. and full chrome fenders with cable brakes .  When I bought it , the rear fender had the mount which holds it to the frame by the rear brake had come loose from the fender . It was still attached at the rear and at the front so I never bothered with it even though it rattled like hell . WELL , one day I was riding to my friends house and going down a long hill as fast as I could peddle in 3rd gear . I hit a small bump in the road which caused the now fatigued front mount to also fail which then let the fender fall onto the tire , rotating it so the fender was between the tire and the road ! NOT GOOD !!!  The bike ended up totaled I I wound up in the Emergency room !!   

I can see how that would be a problem... 
I remember the time I was out cycling when the cable for the rear brakes snapped.! 
I was going down a fairly steep hill that had a series of 90^o bends on it, I got round two of them at about 30mph, but came off at the third and went sailing over the handlebars, fortunately landing in a soft newly dug flowerbed.!