Several times I have (just for fun) been able to put glass beads on copper wire and achieve seals with the proper color associated with a copper-to-glass bond. But, I hear that copper wire isn't that good for use with soda-lime glass because of the mismatched COE. I have the following questions:

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1) Failed Seal Appearance:
Since copper's COE is higher than that of soda-lime glass, the copper wire inside the glass should be trying to shrink away from the glass surface in a completed seal. Obviously thin annealed copper wire is able to just deform and accommodate that, but with thicker wires I hear this isn't the case. Would the red color disappear, or would there be some other indication of a failed seal?

2) Making More Reliable Seals:
The copper wire I use is thin, but I think I can do better. What if I smash the middle of the wire really thin (like molybdenum foil seals in quartz) and then make the seal? Would that be better / more reliable?

3) Pre-Beaded vs Pinched:
Most mass-produced pinch seals are made by just pinching the glass tubing over the Dumet wire. But, I feel like making the glass-to-metal bond in a more controlled and finely-tuneable setting would be better for at-home glassworking. Is there any reason not to put a bead on the wire first and then pinch that beaded wire into the glass stem for a completed seal?

4) Nickel-Iron Alloys For Borosilicate:
 • There is Dumet for soft glass, Kovar for "hard glass" (COE 5), but what is the name of the alloy used for borosilicate? I doubt they just use tungsten, there has to be an alloy out there somewhere.

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Thanks so much!

I had once problem with tripping RCBO breaker (combined circuit breaker with RCD/GFCI), this was caused by flow water heater located on the sink tap under garden bower, problem was solved by water heater check, neutral wire from power cord was loosen and some current flows into ground probe in the heating section.
Luckily here we have few RCDs, not one for all and only one socket circuit from the bower was disconnected due RCD trip

Must have been an issue with the breaker itself. Once a replacement was installed everything was fine again. I guess it was just going bad or just was more sensitive from age. I often wonder is better to have a GFCI breaker or a standard breaker with individual GFCI outlets 

The best compromise is something that's called an 'Alamat' here - a combined GFCI and conventional circuit breaker in 1 device. That means that every circuit is ground fault protected, and you can use conventional outlets.
But we still often use 1 GFCI per 3 circuits, simply for cost reasons.

It all depends on local electrical code as well as your personal wishes. The more GFCIs you use, the lower the trip current can be, but the higher the cost.

I'm not too enthousiastic about only having a gfci inside each outlet, because that does not protect the wire runs themselves. In other words, if you drill into a power line, you can get zapped without the GFCI ever knowing about it. Same with moisture intrusion into junction boxes. Power won't shut off even if the wires are practically submerged, but if they dry out and damage is done, you can have arcing with the associated fire risks.
An AFCI can protect against that, but ideally you catch the problem before arcing starts.

Thank you! I will send you PM.

I don't think it would be that high as 14kHz...


Maybe it's just best to get rid of the TV... but I can tell exactly what has happened. So I somehow managed to snap a small part of the PCB, luckily it only had like 3 lines (or whatever you call them). I soldered some jumper wires, and apparently by accident, put one into wrong solder pad, that's what caused the sound in the first video. Then I fixed that, and now it makes the sound that it's currently doing. I know that it can be very dangerous to solder those jumper wires, but I think I managed to do it correctly now. I can show photos of the PCB if that helps at all...


But still, no photo, no static feeling, no audio. Only that whine. Or could it just take longer to come on if it hasn't been on for a long time? I mean, I had it on for several minutes, and absolutely nothing.
Also, any idea of how the buttons on the front work?


Or should I just stop attempting to fix it before something bad happens?

It’s summertime and getting HOT here. Back in my hometown they’re forecasting 95F to 98F as highs early next week.

Here at the coast, the air temperature is in the mid 80’s but the humidity makes it feel like almost 100F with the heat index. The humidity is what makes summers here in SC brutal sometimes.

I’ve been enjoying some swimming and cold drinks by the pool lately  Remember your sunscreen and stay hydrated out there this summer!

Hi, because I have a lot of them lying around, i can give you an 55W electronic SOX Ballast + Socket for free. That's actually all you need to make it work. You only have to cover the shipping costs. PM ​​me if you're interested.

I wasn't hearing anything, but if it was the 15kHz whine, that is normal (even when sometimes quite loud) and also likely today I would not be able to hear it anymore.

Wasn't the picture waking up? My impression was I've seen there the typical static noise picture. Dark (compare to the ilumination of tge filming), but present.
If yes, what may have happened was some of the electrolytic capacitors degraded into essential short circuit, but by you messing with it and trying to turn it on the capacitor recovered, so the thing just started working.
The dark picture may heal itself as well - the tube may got contaminated by gas releases and even ingestion (e.g. Helium can pass the glass wall, messing with it around vacuum devices is a best receipe to kill them in a short time), which may get cleaned out after some hours of operation.
But it would still mean the capacitors are on their last leg before dying...

All of that is to reduce the compressor noise. And before that it was to reduce the vibrations transferred to the mounts and frame, so it won't fall apart (but that level was 100 years ago).

Rotary compressors are inherently quieter, but their drawback is their geometry must match the compression ratio during operation. Any variation in operating conditions and the compressors become very inefficient.
So if you have exactly known refrigerant, exactly known temperatures and power level, you may design/select the vane/scroll compressor with matching compression ratio for that and it will operate well. But in real life the temperatures vary quite a lot (mainly with reversible heating/cooling heatpumps), plus the exact parameters of the systems are hard to predict during design, so the efficiency suffers a lot (the compression pocket opens at high pressure imbalance, leading to restricted crossflows so useless gas heating so losses).

The reed valves on piston compressors have the huge advantage to opening and closing exactly at point with nearly none pressure difference, so make the compression ratio adaptable to what the actual conditions need. So although a bit less efficient than the csroll/vane at their optimum condition, they do not get worse once the conditions vary (AC/heatpump,...). The drawback is these are reciprocating machines, so inherently creating vibrations that need to be adressed. And that is, where all the suspension springs and resonant dampers and many more vibration suppression techniques come in.

Even when the government policies change and incandescents will be free to make and sell, the problem is the market willing to pay their real price is way too small. Even with all the reliability problems the LEDs sold at most suffer, people in general just got used to them.
Yes, the light quality is not fully matching incandescents, they became the mainstream and their low power demand makes them just plain cheaper light.

The problem is, the latest years of incandescent production was run without any sustainable profit, the profit they msde was just by milking the old machinery, making some profit only by not doing the overhaul the machines would needed in order to really keep them working for longer than the anticipated end of production.
For sustainable model, the incandescents would need to be sold for 5x or 10x the price they were sold at.
Don't forget all the "legislation enforced" incandescent phase out was in reality big lobbying from the major lamp makers. The business was not sustainable for any of them, but no one wanted to be the first one to pull out and so becoming forgotten by consumers. They assumed they will make profit with CFLs, once the incandescent ban forces customers to switch.
Yes, it backfired spectacularly, but that was way lated when the heavy legislative process was at full speed, so impossible to stop.