You need a highly specialized generator circuit at about 240kHz and about 130W to do this properly. See an example in my collection. https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=8069

Some crude MOSFET oscillator circuit as done on youtube might light it up if you manage to match the impedance of inductors and get about right frequency. Such circuits are tricky.

Sometimes it depends on the time of day you  might upload, as the guys over the pond might be tucked up in bed whilst the majority of us here are awake, at work or otherwise pre occupied. also people all have different areas of interests. at certain times the site can have its “rush hour” if you get me when people upload, comment and interact most. I have personally noticed that AM our UK time is the quietest. And night time our time 8pm plus is the best time to upload. Also as ColeD mentions. sometimes uploads can get missed and then fire up at a later date

We all enjoy your and everyone else's uploads so please do not worry and do not feel like you are unwelcome

After a lengthy discussion with Ria (Rommie), we have decided it would be best if we went our separate ways.  The parting was amicable, and I want to thank Ria for her service over these past four years.  Ria has been the most dedicated moderator on the team in recent times.  She did the work of all of us combined and then some.  She had a passion for helping others, and was always welcoming to new members, assisting them with any questions they may have.  I also realize that Ria has been a polarizing figure for some, and not all members responded favorably to her strict interpretation of the rules.  Whether you are pleased or dismayed to read this news, I hope we can all take a moment to recognize the work she did in service of this community.  For those of you who hoped Ria would remain on this team, I apologize that it did not work out.  For those of you who didn't agree with tack Ria took as a moderator, I am sorry we could not better address your concerns.

The current Lighting-Gallery moderation team consists of myself, Rudy (RCM442), Dave (Silverliner), and Anthony (Lightingguy1994).

I would also guess it also a liability escape for the manufacturers? , if your LED burns out prematurely, or damages the fitting in any way, “well we did tell you not to run them in enclosed fittings”!
In reality, probably nothing would happen at all? But I have seen in the past a 20 watt CFL in a tightly enclosed fitting, where the tube did actually detach itself from its mounting cement!

A while ago I found a circular induction lamp in a lamp bin, though because this is my first induction lamp I don't know how to fire it up .
Can someone please help me out?

I understand, as some of my images I post, don’t get the comments or response that I was hoping. So you’re not alone on that. I don’t think it’s intentional… I’m probably guilty of it myself at times.

But I do appreciate your posts both here and in other sites, and I’m sure others do too. And I do see you reacting to my posts in other sites and I do appreciate it!

I am not happy with how controlling it has become here regarding pic quality and commenting - sure I do my best to make quality pics but sometimes there are situations where your own pic happens to be not so good quality and it was only one opportunity to get it - like for example my pic of the Thorn Alpha 3 main road lanterns running MV lamps on a long stretch of road in Ireland. Thanks to those who appreciated it like AL-M who provided me the road location on Google Maps. That pic I got told off that it was bad quality and I had to explain why it was the case


I don't seem to feel appreciated anymore with whatever I put up with my vintage and not so vintage (non LED) finds of lighting that I got from the car boot sales and charity shops from last year and this year as I barely get any comments on my pics - like it would be grand to know what year the bulbs and tubes are made, etc. I don't expect crazy amount of validation but since I go through the effort of posting these pics, it would be nice if you can comment showing appreciation and if possible to provide any information such as date and the timeline of their produce and where they were mostly used at - if you can't genuinely do that then it is OK but please hear me out on this. I would like to know for example when was my Thorn 36W tube made? I know it is late 80s but I'd love to know the exact year and month if someone can decipher it. Also I understand how ppl can be busy and overloaded but at the same time I can't help but feel underappreciated

Also so many ppl who have been on this site earlier than me and they made me feel welcome, have been repelled away

From now on I will stop posting pics on here cos I don't see the point. Kudos to the ones who appreciate of who I am and what I post on

FF96 

Although I'm thinking about possibly creating my own, I'm looking around for PL-L 18w desk lamps that can fit HPF Rapid Start magnetic ballasts, floor desk lamps included. (This ballasts use PL-L 18w lamps only. I have about seven of those ballasts total.) I doubt I'll find them, and I may have to resort to creating my own, but if they're out there, I want to find them so that I can get rid of this desk lamp: https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=4976&pos=38&pid=164164, saving my Rapid Start ballasts in it, of course.

The main thing not so many people take into account is, the incandescent emit majority of the "heat" as a rather short wavelength IR (very close the visible range), which passes through the glass ciovr the same way as the visible does, so only fraction of that power actually stays within the fixture.
Compare to that, the fluorescents, as well as LEDs, emit most of their waste heat as convection heat and long wave IR, which both remain trapped inside.
So although there is e.g. a 100W incandescent, in a fully enclosed glass globe just about 20..25W of heat trapped inside of the fixture.
The same fixture with a 70lm/W 25W CFL (to get similar ~1800lm output), all the losses, so about 20W is dissipated within the globe. Nearly the same as with the 100W incandescent, so leading to similar internal temperature. And that higher temperature is way easier to handle by the incandescent, than the CFL ballast. And also the performance of the tube itself is quite temperature sensitive, it must be specifically designed for the temperatures it is supposed to work at. So it may be possible to design a tube for enclosed fixture operation, such lamp will be very inefficient at lower temperatures (in open fixtures; and also take forever to warm up to ramp up the light output). Because it is easier to work with lower temperatures of open fixtures and many fixtures are indeed open, it is the condition these lamps are designed for.
 
With ~150lm/W LEDs you need about 12W power input, which means about 7W dissipated as heat. It is way less than the CFL (or incandescent), but the plug-in LEDs have extremely tight thermal budget (because there is minimum chance to get rid of the heat, even when there is less of it), so most hsuch higher power LEDs use to be "just on the edge" with an open fixture operation. So very likely will operate beyond its design target, so suffer from worse reliability (every 10degC higher temperature means about halving its lifetime).

 "flickering at 30 HZ"
If they are really flickering at 30Hz (or anything else than 2x the main frequency, so 100 or 120Hz depends on where you are), there is something really bad with the lights, anything other than a "double-mains" frequency can not be any intended design feature (such as intentionally not using an electrolytic capacitor, single stage high power factor driver,...).

Very often it is LED string just failing (some bond wire just broke and is thermally cycling - that uses to be in the 10's Hz range).

Or there is something happening in the electrical installation (some arcing on a loose connection in the lighting circuit), or some crazy SCR regulation of some very high load.
Some permanent magnet synchronous motor starters use to do that - as they connect the mains only at times when the rotor happens to be in a correct phase vs the mains to accelerate it, but once it reaches synchronicity with mains it should remain permanently ON, so they should do the chopping only for very brief time to start the motor, after that it should remain permanently ON. Could be when the motor is overloaded, it never reaches synchronicity so the starter never transitions into the permanent ON "run" state and continue bursting.
This concept is quite popular on things like fixed speed blowers or pumps (e.g. dish washer circulation pumps commonly use this concept). It allows to use high efficiency, yet simple permanent magnet AC synchronous motors with way less complexity than a complete VFD, the drawback is the strong subharmonic current draw during startup, which may cause some lights in the installation to flicker.

Or it could be some mechanical fault on some motor, causing uneven mechanical load, so pulsing into the current draw. Again those high efficiency permanent magnet motors use to be more sensitive to this, but induction motors do that too.