Hi has anyone got a 3 foot fluorescent lamp fitting for sale ? kind regards Bob

HI Purchased a 1970s GEC Z1633P 135W/180W Leak Transformer to power my Philips 135W SOX lamp as I ordered a 175W CWA Autotransformer for my 200W SLI/H HO lamp from the US ( been lost in transit and got refund ) so I put the SLI/H lamp on the back burner. Did not have a 15UF Capacitor suitable for the Leak Transformer I used a 12UF instead and powered up the 135W sox for the first time and it Voltage and Current were spot on while I was waiting to get the lamp to full brightness I decided to get the SLI/H HO Lamp out and try that on the GEC Z1633P and was a very faint purple glow but it would not start up so I tried a 20UF Capacitor and it started up the voltage is 147 ( about right )  and the currant is 1.1 A ( bit low ) ran it up to full brightness and voltage and currant did not budge . Left it on for 3hours the Lamp is ok no flickering a the electrodes look ok and the leak Transformer did not get warm . As I am going to display this at  a steam rally and it is not going to be lit for 8 hours a time it should be OK ? kind regards

The other day I installed some T5 fixtures on my cabinets so they light up the ceiling and it looks pretty cool, pictures coming soon. 

Hello,
is there a complete table of the electrical caractheristics of lamps run of ballast were an ANSI code (i.e. S52 for a HV 1kW HPS lamp) exists?

Best regards,

Alex

WOW!, that’s the most crazy discharge lamp I’ve ever seen!, I don’t mean I haven’t seen one before, but that I’ve not seen one lit to their full output!
I wonder what the exact temperature is in the arc core itself?, probably on a par with our sun? 

Well I learned something! I had no idea that Ushio made a liquid cooled lamp. But looking at the Ushio design, adapting it to the AN/TVS-3 fixture might be challenging - the mount points for the lamp are a ring bonded to the glass on the anode end (front) and a bearing sleeve bonded to the glass on the cathode end (rear). With an SQP IMax lamp I may (I hope!) be able to create a jig and bond salvaged parts to the glass (in the correct positions) and replace the end fittings (these are locked to the tungsten electrodes with snap rings). There is one on eBay for $4k, which is more than I'll pay for an experiment.

Obviously no interest in de-gassed lamps - but if I can catch them before they do that - perfect!

I have seen out-of-spec exhibit in 3 ways: excessive current draw, failure to ignite and unstable arc. I haven't seen much flicker with these, even though some of the cathode tips are a bit melted. This may be due to the DC supply being 1200Hz bumpy DC (3-phase full-wave-rectified 400Hz). To contrast this, a few of my air-cooled 10kW lights show flicker even with brand new lamps, and very little DC fluctuation.

Some of spares are Hanovia and some are SQP - I'll try to grab some photos next time at the warehouse.

Hello James,
that is indeed an impressive material. It basically has all the properties of asbestos with the fibrous picture.
The risk of thermal shock is something I am actually rather scared of regarding when i use natural stone.

The material you use at work, Trespa, seem to be similar to paxolin by its properties. My old test bench was made from something similar, however it received a few burn marks, especially when halogen lamps were involved.

Best regards,

Alex

I know collectors often frown on the practice but it's possible with some ingenuity to fit a 3rd party ballast in a GE luminaire. Now you might need to make or modify existing brackets but as long as the new ballast is around the same size as the old one it should work. I had a Venture 175w MH ballast in my Crimefighter for a few year until I was able to finally refurbish the OEM ballast. Now for a SA-201, a HPS reactor ballast (any brand) or a HX 175w MV ballast pulled from a yardlight should work in most cases.

@Econolite03
Oh I thought the bolt-hole pattern wouldn't be the same.

@GE PM: Who said to use a GE replacement ballast kit, let alone a multi-tap type? I suggested just any replacement 120V reactor type ballast. The 201s by default have reactor ballasts that are usually only a single voltage such as 120V (both of mine are that type), and plenty of the Advance reactor ballast kits for HPS on eBay could fit.