Today I got a little more done... changed the oil in my sport car around 2am in the morning, (took five hours, since the oil filter was stuck.)
and... bought a GoPro Hero 10. First GoPro I've ever bought so far. I'm planning on doing what's called "Motovlogging" with this GoPro... vlogging while
I'm on my motorcycle. Major event: this is something I've wanted to do since 2009, before I knew about Lighting Gallery. For me, this is a big deal.
However... the GoPro features are endless. Insanely complexed... so I'll be trying it out once I have more time. I also need an SD Card, and a microphone
to install into my helmet, etc.
I've also talked around with a few friends to see if they want to go to "Cars and Coffee" in Dayton Ohio on May 25th, since I'll be off work that weekend.

Cost being the most decisive factor, I guess. Now, cost aside, what would prevent say a LED edge lit panel to have a rectifier to run it effectively on DC ?

Fair enough. I used some 1/2" 1/16" thick aluminum bar stock to make the bracket for my Bantam. Drilled and tapped holes for mounting and then used a vise and a small bending die set to make the bends.

But I kind of want a somewhat official one with a real G12 base and custom bracket, kind of like the Chicago spec M250s in CMH (but those have a different base). Besides, I could use the mogul socket and the old ballast to convert another light to HPS.

I noticed that too. Even with LED lamps, the cheap ones tended to cheap out and have noticeable flicker while the more expensive ones tend to have additonal components in the driver that at least reduces flicker.

I observed something interesting this week...

Way back in the late 1930's, when commercially viable discharge lighting came on the market, the magnetic ballast produced flicker at twice the mains frequency. Over the years, different mechanisms were used to mitigate the effect (lead-lag, distribution over three phases) until the electronic ballasts came on the market in the later years of last century. The high frequency made for virtually flicker free operation.

Now, cue in the advent of LED lights, the cheap hardware store ones have very annoying visible flicker. This week, I paid a visit to the electrical supplier. All their fluorescent troffers have been switched over to LED edge lit panels. I walked in and there was no apparent flicker. When I was waiting for service at the counter, I spotted one of those retro-style fans, that have metal blades and a metal enclosure. It was running and the blades had that slow movement appearance that is usually a tell-tale sign of flicker. I was kind of surprised that the LED panels produced flicker akin to magnetically ballasted fluorescent.

I suppose you could find a pulse rated mogul to medium reducer (they exist, just a bit harder to find) and then pair it with a ED17 3000K CMH lamp. The would be the simplest way.

Unfortunately, no...these are 4000K, 90% + CRI...they're actually really nice lamps. The high CRI doesn't have that annoying blue content when compared to cheap QMH lamps.

I would really like one of those if it was available in 3000K. Did they ever make mogul base ceramic metal halide lamps in 3000K?

I am looking to convert an AEL series 315 to run 150w G12 base CMH lamps with an electronic ballast. It should be pretty easy to mount the ballast on the power pad and rewire everything, but how should I go about making a CDM-T lamp compatible with the existing (FCO) optical assembly? Should I make a bracket that extends the lampholder out or maybe at an angle?

Any help will be appreciated.

Swapping the ballast would be rather easy...the lamp, not so much. How about making it easier on yourself and get a Philips MasterColor CDM150/U/PS/4K CMH lamp? These have an E39 mogul base. I've used these with standard magnetic ballasts that run M102 lamps...no issues. Also compatible eHID ballasts.