Speaking of brakes, my motorcycle has no rear brake as of now. The brake pads are completely gone and it's been this way for a very long time.
Literally every part of the rear brake will be replaced soon though. Until then, I usually rely on engine braking, and I stay OFF the highway, at all costs.
As for drilling, I've completely given up, and I've got help on the way for my situation. Someone is going to be working on my sportcar. Very interesting
mechanic. I'll type more about this once/if it's completed successfully.

@Wide-lite 1000, yep, those cart pipes were vertical. They almost reached the ceiling. Definitely did help though... I always knew where those carts were. lol

I (finally) found a video where some LED lights are accidentally destroyed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8od5EJPRVCA

Interestingly, I managed to get a 10W 4-pin PL-C CFL lamp to fire up on a simple 120V series choke ballast with an external starter hooked up to it and it stayed lit:

https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=4&pid=223218

Bought a new tuner for my mandolin. 
It's one of these, Ria has got one, and as my Snark is always playing up I got one as well. 

The only one I’ve ever seen is the ‘SUPERL ITE’ controversy that kicked off on ATL once! 
Fellow member Kev can explain this better!

I’d have said at first its just the halides being pulled into the arc stream, but I’ve actually, (albeit very rarely), seen mercury arcs pull a tiny pink orb into the arc too!
Wonder if it’s tiny pieces of glowing electrode coming off?

 I've been a member here for 6 years now and I see lots of people discussing older HPS or MH fixtures believing that they must've been originally MV and were converted to MH or HPS . Not always the case . I've seen several instances of 60's fixtures which were available in MH and HPS also .  For example , LM Unistyle 400 & Unistyle 1000 were available from the factory in all 3 flavors . The M-400A was also .  Mid 60's Revere catalogs list both MV and "Metallic Additive" versions .

 I've seen some of which more are originally HPS than MV , i.e. AEL 25 , LM Unidoors , M-400A .

 Running the drill slowly is a must as turning it at a high speed just generates heat and kills the bit quickly !

Just spent 5 hours... attempting... to drill out a broken bolt in my rear strut mount of my sport car. Failed miserably.
I've tried right handed drill bits with penetrating oil, left handed drill bits with penetrating oil, several extractors
including the famous "Grabit" extractors. Everything failed, miserably. The Grabit extractor actually slipped out of the
drill.
Either the drill is very weak, or maybe I'm doing something wrong.
And yes, I reversed the drill for the extractors and the left handed drill bits.

I find drilling out stuff like this, it's critical to use a quality drill bit. I usually go with a decent cobalt bit, those go through steel a lot easier than standard HSS bits. The other option would be to attempt to cut the bolt. I used a dremel to cut the bolts on my sway bar links when I replaced them.