Lighting-Gallery.net
Lanterns/Fixtures => Modern => Topic started by: Econolite03 on December 09, 2021, 05:07:10 PM
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Hi everyone,
Recently, I have acquired a few Philips 135W low pressure sodium lamps. I eventually want to be able to run one of them, and knowing how certain SOX lamps can operate on a Fulham Workhorse ballast, I plan to take the route. However, I’ve been debating on using either a Workhorse 6, 7, or 8 to drive the lamps. It has been proven a Workhorse 8 can run a 135W low pressure sodium lamp safely, but could a Workhorse 6 or 7 be a alternative?
On Amazon, I was considering a Fulham WH7-120-H to try out for $50. It has a rated maximum wattage of 220W, whereas a WH6 is 140W (I believe). I’m not too sure about the Workhorse lineup so any info or advice would be much appreciated.
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The most important thing to get your 135w SOX low pressure sodium lamp to run properly is to make sure that it runs at 165v 0.95a with the Fulham ballast that you choose since 165v 0.95a is the proper arc voltage and current for 135w SOX low pressure sodium lamps. You can try experimenting with several Fulham ballasts until you get one that runs your lamp at the rated arc drop and current. For measuring lamp current, you should use a clamp meter in series with the lamp. For measuring the arc drop, you need to stick the pins of a multimeter into the lamp socket's terminals. Ideally, 135w and 180w SOX low pressure sodium lamps need an OCV of about 600v-750v for proper starting and operation. In addition, it is important to make sure that your lamp does not overload the ballast's maximum lamp power rating.
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Thanks, yeah looking at it the WH6 wouldn’t cut it, so it’s between a WH7 or 8 if that’s the case. IIRC the WH8 has six red (output) wires, and using only two should start the lamp properly and give acceptable ratings on a multi-meter.
Now the question is on a WH7 (assuming it also has six red (output) wires), how many red wires should I use that could properly operate the lamp? To be honest I have a feeling I’ll have to buy the ballast first then run some tests on a multi-meter to figure that out, again any ideas are much appreciated.
See Here (https://www.amazon.com/Fulham-Lighting-Workhorse-Adaptable-WH7-120-H/dp/B002JWHB6I/)
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You can use the clamp meter to determine how many wires you need to parallel together to see if the lamp will close to the rated 0.95a.
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Okay, I’ll look into it.
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Your prolly better off using a Instant start HO sign ballast
For 10 foot lamp Knowing that it can run .8 lamp current.
Here one u can get with out too much trouble If u can afford under 60 dollars US
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324474795703
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Unfortunately, this SOX low pressure sodium ballast requires a 347v mains supply, which is a mains supply that this member is unlikely to have. Operating it on 120v mains would require an expensive step up transformer.
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I have decided I’ll try out a Workhorse 7 when I get paid, using a multi meter I should hopefully be able to get the appropriate output to start the lamp.
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There was a seller on eBay a while back with 2-135w SOX lamps and gear for sale . One had a correct 135/180w advance ballast (I bought that one) and the other had IIRC a workhorse 7 ballast .
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Those ballasts are extremely expensive though, but worth it if it is the correct ballast if you had the money.
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Not really . Considering that a "correct" 135/180w SOX ballast costs well 3 times that much nowadays . $50 isn't that bad .
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Yeah, my priority is to simply get the lamps running just to be able to see them lit up. Nothing too fancy should do the trick.
;)
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Not really . Considering that a "correct" 135/180w SOX ballast costs well 3 times that much nowadays . $50 isn't that bad .
I usually see North American 135w/180w SOX low pressure sodium HX autotransformer ballasts usually going for well over $150USD per piece.
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That's what I'm saying . A genuine SOX ballast is usually at least 3 times the price of the $50 ballast he already found .
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A WH6 easily lights the 135w SOX lamp but the lamp is about 40% underdriven. A WH5 actually runs it better with approximately 30% less light. I used all 4 red wires for both these ballasts. Have not acquired a WH7 to do any tests yet.
347 Volts is necessary on my SOLA ballast I have on eBay, but it is surprisingly flexible input wise. Meaning: it easily lights a 135w SOX lamp. Read the eBay description or simply look at the pretty pics.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/324474795703
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Ahh, thanks.
Interesting a WH5 runs better than a WH6. I think I’ll be the first person to run a 135W SOX on a WH7.
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I personally prefer to run my fluorescent and HID lamps at full power whenever possible.
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I agree, I think a WH7 should work, but I’ll have to verify with a multi meter if I get it. I’ve heard of WH8s actually overdriving 135W SOXes if wired certain ways such as using more than two output wires.
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Alright, I just ordered the Workhorse 7 off Amazon.
:ballastfl:
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When you take your measurements, make sure that the lamp runs at 165v 950mA.
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It's difficult to measure lamp current with a high-frequency workhorse ballast. A good method was described by GLOBE COLLECTOR (https://www.lighting-gallery.net/index.php?action=profile;u=1415) in this thread (https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-116711). Unfortunately he deleted his description in his gallery which was here (http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=307&pos=0&pid=118491), and alas, I never tried it.
But since I have numerous 135w/180w magnetic ballasts, where a clamp meter works quite fine for arc current measurement, I exploit light-meters to measure the light output of the same setup. I first run a 135watt lamp with the magnetic ballast, check for the current, then meticulously measure the light. I simply swap out the magnetic ballast for the HF electronic ballast (keeping everything else the same, including items far from the setup) and measure the light output again. Notice that I largely ignore the lamp current. But I try to do it "safely", first using one red wire (plus the yellow on the other socket side) then two reds wired together, then three, etc. Did this with a few WH5s & WH6s, but not with a WH7 yet. When I get one myself, I'd start with one red, going up to 4 reds together and check the light output.
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The WH5 & WH6 are safe for a 135w SOX lamp with all 4 reds together - lamps are under-driven. The WH6 heats up a little after 1 hour on a 135w SOX since this runs at maximum trying to light it. The 90w lamp is also fine using either a WH5 (3 reds, but underdriven) or WH6 with (4 red wires, nearly correct output). I'll attempt to post some info over the winter. I also acquired a SOX-E 66w lamp which might work even better with the WH5 or WH6.
As they're advertised, the workhorse ballasts are quite "adaptable". I used a WH3 ballast with a number of used & new 26w SOX-E lamps. It appears that a WH3 will overdrive some used lamps by about 25% (more light), however in less than 5 minutes the WH3 pulls back. The output settles down to what I get with a 35/55w magnetic ballast. I'll be repeating these tests as I recently got a Tridonic OMBX26 magnetic ballast specifically to measure the light output of 26w SOX-E lamps.
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Thanks for the info.
When the WH7 ballast arrives (which should be Friday) I’ll try one red wire and one yellow going to the lamp, if the lamp doesn’t warm up satisfactorily then I’ll pair two reds and see if it improves, and so on.
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-UPDATE-
The ballast has arrived. It has 2X reds, 2X yellows, 2X blues, and the black & white input wires.
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That one is made for 2 lamp CFL and/or fluorescent. Not sure how to wire a sox lamp with it. At least you can try up to 2 of the red and one of the yellow. Not sure if you can connect the reds & blues together.
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Well, I can confirm you can safely operate a 135W SOX on a Fulham Workhorse 7 ballast using 1X red paired with 1X yellow. I’ll definitely try using 2X reds plus the 1X yellow which I believe will deliver better performance. The lamp seemed to warm up decent but definitely I think it can do better. In conclusion, a WH8 is probably a better option, but the WH7 is a viable alternative option.
:sox18:
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Any updates using this type of WH7 ballast (2red + 2blue + 1yel)? Is your 135w lamp (https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-207831) lit with it? Tried 2red+1blue with one yellow yet?
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Not yet, but I’ll try to do it soon when I’m off work.