They very rarely get hot, just because they are heavy and on for only few minutes with way longer for cooling.
Plus even when the microwave is 10+ years old, the actual runtime is barely few 100's hours. If you are using it in some business activity really heavily, still it reaches few k-hours. At that time many other parts on the microwave fail way sooner and with many from these it is not economical to replace or even their failure makes the thing unsafe even after repairs (rusted case, broken magnetron sputtering berylium ceramics around, broken magnets,...)

Compare that with lighting use, where 10 years in street lighting means 36k hours and majority of that close to the top temperature rating, yet even there the prime failure/replacemects cause uses to be corrosion and system becoming outdated and not the ballast failing alone...

While attempting to diagnose a non functioning range hood, I discovered some dangerous wiring powering it. I wiggled the Romex coming out of the wall powering the hood, it came to life. It also turned on and off. At first I thought the connections to the range hood were bad. As it turned out there was a break in the cable about 3 inches back from the end. I felt the cable. It felt unusually soft on one side. Why? Because one of the insulated conductors was missing. For those unfamiliar with US residential wiring practices, Romex aka nonmetallic sheathed cable typically has two insulated current-carrying conductors, black for hot, white for neutral, and a bare conductor for equipment grounding. That brings me to the dangerous wiring I discovered. The black wire was totally missing. The white and bare conductors were there. The black wire from the range hood was attached to the bare conductor and the white was attached to the white wire in the Romex. The “electrician” (and I use that term extremely loosely) who hooked up this range hood actually used the bare conductor as a current-carrying conductor. What amazes me is that this person intentionally did this. I don’t know (and didn’t bother to test) whether the bare was being used as hot or neutral. This easily qualifies as the worst, most Jerry rigged wiring job I’ve ever seen. I could use other terms to describe it; but I want to keep this post G rated.

Mine is just a 3 in 1 system that measures wind, outside temperature and humidity. I was planning to call Acurite and see if they could offer a discount on a new sensor but I haven't tried yet. A new sensor would cost more than the whole system.

So one can now go inside Chernobyl again? That's scary!

The Chernobyl lights are next to the reactors containment structure.

I use mine like everyday and the combined time is like 8 hours on end! I just wanna know why they last for so long.

It's always been an interesting topic to me, the way that different places have different names for stuff, such as 'mobile phone' and 'cellphone' for example, or petrol/gasoline. To me, a road is comprised of two (or three) components - the road surface itself, where cars and other vehicles go, which can in itself be called several different names, 'the tarmac' or 'the carriageway' (official-speak) or simply 'the road', as in "I'm going to cross the road".

Then there is the part you walk on, which is always (in the UK) the 'pavement', except for a pedestrian walkway, which is a footpath, or simply path. Thirdly, there may be a central reservation on main, busy roads, which divides traffic flow in opposite directions.

That I meant by the "load"...


And for the "road" vs "pavement" vs "sidewalk":
Now I'm not that sure is it is correct, but by the "pavement" I meant the top surface (bitumen, shredded tyre rubber and other ingredients enriched concrete or sometimes decorative bricks or tiles, what uses to be the material for it) layer of the road/sidewalk/walkway structure.

A quick list of what I would gladly trade for it:

1000 watt M-H lamp (NOS or new).
400w HPI-T or HPI-plus M-H lamp.
40watt Induction lamp driver.
250 watt coated mercury lamp.
100 watt SDW-T son-white, new (also the ballast).
175w /N coated red mercury lamp.
Indium-iodide blue M-H lamp
Any other blue M-H lamp, 250w or 400w.

My house has regular light fixtures and some solar path lights outside. Plus it has those double PAR floods, one shining toward the driveway and one toward the back yard. I'd like to have a post mounted light, either a NEMA head or cobra head fixture, but my parents wouldn't allow it I'm sure. Although, I remember at my old house they had a MV yardblaster in the back yard.

Most of my neighbors have those PAR or LED flood lights on their houses. One house down the street has a really cool setup. They have a pole in front of their garage. It had an HPS NEMA head, but in the last year or two they disconnected it, but left it on the pole. They added two HPS flood lights after that. What's odd is they're all commercial utility grad fixtures but they aren't rentals, because the power line is attached to the garage.

Another house on my street also has a pole with two HPS floods. I believe they are GE ones, and they must not be rentals because they seem to be powered via underground lines and usually aren't switched on. It's been a long time since I've seen them on.

One other house on my street has a fancy post with an acorn light on it. I believe it's incandescent... Some houses in my neighborhood, I can think of one or two have mercury vapor post top lights. I'm not sure the make but I think could be older GEs, P17M or P16M. I can think of three houses with those style fixtures. At least two of them are in use at night too.