I'll be starting work on cleaning up the B2224's I got about a week ago. Been very busy salvaging stuff from the house next to mine which is getting demolished so haven't had time to work on them.

Will also do my final check over the house as it's doomsday will likely be next week and my parents are getting quite picky about me going over despite the fact I've been inside abandoned houses and buildings that were in far worse shape compared to the house I'm salvaging stuff from.

Someone else had gotten to the hardwood floor boards and salvaged about 75% of them. This wasn't a surprise when you consider how expensive hardwood is these days. They busted out several windows so they didn't have to maneuver the boards through the tight areas and out the front door which is actually on the side of the house. These people knew what they were doing and had prior experience with salvaging floorboards. They knew what was worth saving and what wasn't. 

I'm imagining the surprise that the demolition crew will get when they walk inside and discover that over half the floor is gone.

I agree.

Today I tested the electrical data of my previously purchased OSRAM QT-DIM dimming ballast at 100% brightness.

That seems literally impossible to enforce.

That’s when you get a real cobrahead, like a GE M-400 with a sag lens.

these may or may not be ge decashields. if not what are they?? https://www.google.com/maps/@33.841347,-117.8328175,3a,15y,133.25h,103.55t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s1OPWlutJ4tMXSCqNKfiDJQ!2e0!7i16384!8i8192

I kind of like the prismatic sag lens on the OVY compared to the clear sag lenses used in other cobraheads. As for the housing, I'm assuming it's built the same as my OVF, whose build quality didn't impress me.

The glass refractor is neat, but the casting is so thin it cracks easily.

Medved, as far as I have been aware, F36T8 tubes have an arc voltage drop of 103v while F34T12 tubes have an arc voltage drop is actually 84v. In that case, the arc voltage drop difference seems more significant than what you were thinking because F34T12 fluorescent tubes have been known to overheat older North American F40T12 preheat and rapid start fluorescent tube ballasts since F40T12 fluorescent tubes have an arc voltage drop of roughly 100v and the lower arc voltage drop of the F34T12 fluorescent tube would cause the older ballasts to draw more current than they were designed to handle. On the other hand, F36T8 fluorescent tubes have never caused any North American F40T12 preheat fluorescent tube ballasts to overheat as well.

Here is a spec sheet that shows that the arc voltage drop of a F36T8 fluorescent tube is 103v:

https://www.lighting.philips.com/api/assets/v1/file/PhilipsLighting/content/fp927982284036-pss-global/927982284036_EU.en_AA.PROF.FP.pdf

Here is the bulletin that shows that F34T12 fluorescent tube has an arc voltage drop of 84v:

https://www.scribd.com/document/110155293/Westinghouse-Guide-to-Fluorescent-Lamps-Brochure-1979

I don't like the OVY either, but it has a unique prismatic sag glass that no other street light has. The OVF has an ordinary flat glass.

The OVF doesn't impress since it's horrible, but Cooper did manage to create an LED that really looks pleasing by taking the OVF and the OVH and turning them into LEDs instead of those other dreadful LED designs. The OVY is very cool, in my opinion, because of its prismatic sag glass.

Isn't then the fill pressure different? Something has to compensate for the different tube diameter, 36W (~93V) vs 34W (~88V) sounds to me as too small difference (barely 6%; sounds to me like even less than the manufacturing tolerance of either type) for T8 vs T12 (factor of ~2 in tube cross section area)... Or has the tube diameter really so little impact on the running arc voltage (while so huge on the ignition one)?