Built a ballast box for my SOX 90w. There's a BSX90 and associated ignitor in there.
The box is generously sized because my previous HPL-N 50w ballast box was so small that i could barely get my hands in there to mount a strain relief etc. It is also large enough to mount some sort of cradle for the lamp on top.

I had a little fuckup - i designed the box for 6mm MDF, but for some reason the local hardware store doesn't sell that anymore so i used 9mm. Only after cutting i realized i didn't modify the cutting files...
It still fits together and is sturdy enough, just not as nice as the one i made for the 50w ballast for the clear MV lamp.

Attach an inverter generator to the downed lines and see if the NEMA heads/ street lights turn on.

Making very sure it's not connected to the grid first in anyway of course.

Sodium emits in yellow-orange area, sure. So lamps using sodium additive have some excessive orange light causing them to get poor R9 CRI score, because of orange/deep red imbalance. If a lamp designer can manage to get a target CCT without sodium addition, he is just happy to dispose of it.

I might be lacking a fundamental understanding of semiconductors, coatings and alloys. However I am wondering something

Current LED filaments are basically just glorified LED strings tacked to a pencil lead thin PCB and frosted with phosphor. Basically a cookie of sorts. 

What is stopping companies from making actual LED filaments similar to Electroluminescent wire?

A metal core, with silicone/semiconductor somehow flashed/alloyed onto it, a transparent or semi transparent conductive coating and phosphor caked on top of it all? Is it impossible? Is it already being worked on? Has it not been thought of yet?

I imagine it would be rather fragile but I'm sure that could be solved with some sort of epoxy coating or glass...

Wouldn't really be a wall pack anymore if it was 1000 watts. It would be a wall crate.

Using all 4 reds will simply make it a bit brighter / may overdrive the lamp some.
Allot of electronic VHO ballasts intentionally underdrive the lamps anyway so it might even end up being close to normal (not sure on the WH7, I've never tried running a VHO with mine)
Overdriving a little bit won't hurt, but you don't want to go much above.

It would be interesting to do some tests with this & see how much power each output/red-wire adds...

@arcblue : That is exactly how I feel. Architects and lighting designers work together and the building is built and lit nicely. It’s when either the lighting is deemed too inefficient or the bean counters want to reduce wattage that the lighting design plan is thrown out the window and they install whatever is the cheapest they can find.

Homeowners are not always better, I’ve seen some badly lit homes, too.

Yes, I got mine on eBay originally.

As it turns out, I have two, one still on the house and one new unused one. So if you’d like, I can ship you the one I never used. It’s an Intermatic. PM me if interested.

It seems that in general now, a great deal of people care little if at all about aesthetics and just want cheap and easy. Thus, people wearing sweats and pajamas to the store, apartments made of ugly corrugated metal, cars that all look generic and soulless, computers that look like Fisher Price toys and light fixtures that are basically plastic boxes with diodes stuck in them.

It was bad enough seeing fluorescent installations with missing diffusers, mismatched colored lamps, or HIDs mislamped, or bad CFL retrofits. But now everything can be cobbed even if it looks horrendous or simply replaced with a cheap abomination that produces more glare than useful light.

I think another problem is that good lighting designers cost money that people don’t want to pay; again they want cheap and there’s ways to do things more cheaply, so they do. Anyone can order on Amazon and wire in a fixture and it’ll light up….who cares about glare, lumens, color temperature, beam pattern?

It us up to those of us that DO care about quality lighting and aesthetics to at least adorn our own places with good lighting and try to advocate for it in public areas where we can….lots of good LED fixtures do exist, but they aren’t the cheap ones and they may be hard to obtain. It could also be that modern designers and installers aren’t getting good training or simply the market is saying, do the job as quickly and inexpensively as possible unless a particular customer pays extra to have it done to their exacting specifications.

This could be done in similar fashion to a plant grow light, where the ballast is remotely connected and sits on the floor. Then the luminaire is lightweight and mounting is basically like an incandescent light. But with full-wattage HID, it may be too bright at such a low mounting height and look very disproportional in the room.

Mounting a high bay as-is with the ballast still in it would mean using heavy chains, hooks and bolts and making sure it’s fastened well into a ceiling stud. You’ll have big holes to fill when removing it later. Another thing to be concerned about is lamp heat if mounting close to the ceiling.