1   General / Off-Topic / Re: Severe weather never sleeps!  on: Today at 11:31:36 AM 
Started by lightinglover8902 - Last post by dor123
Update: It was the end of the storm, as there were no winds during capturing the picture, and now all of the haze left.
 2   General / Off-Topic / Re: Severe weather never sleeps!  on: Today at 09:42:28 AM 
Started by lightinglover8902 - Last post by dor123
Once again we have a sandstorm.
 3   Lanterns/Fixtures / Vintage & Antique / ITT Yard Lite - Odd Ballast Behavior?  on: Today at 09:08:49 AM 
Started by PossumKingdomA2 - Last post by PossumKingdomA2
Gooooood morning! We've got a bit of a long one here as I'm seeking some answers and want to give as much info as possible...

As I am stepping into the space of HID light fixtures, I recently acquired a NOS ITT R175 Yard-Lite.
Date printed on the outer shell states it was originally from Mid-1977. Even came with it's original Westinghouse Mercury Vapor Bulb.

I've been attempting to get this thing up and going for the past few days, but I am getting some odd behavior from it. On first power up using the original packaged bulb, it came up wonderfully. At least, it seemed at first. Upon reaching full brightness, the ballast became unusually loud and the arc began to sputter. I promptly unplugged it and checked for any smoke, shorts, or physical damage, but found none.
I decided to give it another go about a couple of days later. This time, it did the same thing, except the lamp knocked itself out within about a couple of seconds of the arc sputtering.

Out of pure curiosity, I grabbed my only other on-hand MV, a much newer Philips 175w. Lit it up, and...it kept stable for significantly longer than the Westinghouse would. Absolutely no strange ballast noises or sputtering out after a few minutes (whereas the Westinghouse cut out after about 2 minutes). Confused, I threw the Westinghouse back in. Lo-and-behold...it dropped out again. I swapped the Philips back in...and now the Philips bulb is doing the same thing. Pretty thrown-off at this point and based on what I have heard from friends deeper into the hobby, my ballast may be cooked from the jump.

About a couple hours later I decided to plug it in one more time, but on camera so that I could show some friends what it was doing. Except this time...it decided not to do it? With the Philips bulb installed, it ran for a solid 10 minutes with no issues. I even unplugged it, cooled it off, then plugged it back in to see if it would stay. It stuck around another handful of minutes until I unplugged it.
Later on in the night when I was in my room and winding down, I decided to plug it in again and see how long I could get it to stick around. Roughly an hour or so with absolutely no complaints, smells, or sputters.
Lastly, I moved it elsewhere in my room to let it run even longer. Plug it in, runs fine, then...we're back to the sputtering. Except this bulb isn't knocking itself out. Genuinely have no idea now.

Apologies for the long post. This thing has me scratching my head and I cannot for the life of me figure out what is causing this thing to misbehave. Especially since it only seems to do it sometimes. A friend previously suggested I add a capacitor, as this fixture did not come with one out of the box. He later suggested the ballast was faulty after the conundrum with the two bulbs cutting off. Hoping I can get an answer or two. Maybe the 48-year-old ballast really is just bad after all of those years in the box (and I'm just coping/desperate to not have to hunt down a replacement)  :-\
 4   General / General Discussion / Re: Gas filling in T5 fluorescent tubes (classic, HE, HO, energy saving versions)  on: Today at 05:39:08 AM 
Started by PlasmaAddict - Last post by PlasmaAddict
Thanks a lot, James.
If 2 tubes were made with the same diameter and same length, same gas filling composition but different gas filling pressure, operated at the same current, am I right to think that the tube with the higher gas filling pressure would have the higher voltage drop? How does it scale, would a tube with 3x the gas pressure have 3x the voltage drop?
What is Cronigen in emergency lighting tubes? Google doesn't seem to know anything about it.
 5   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: The decline in quality of LED bulbs  on: March 17, 2026, 11:37:48 PM 
Started by Lightingeye60 - Last post by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
I have sometimes been tempted to hook up poor quality LED lamps to step up transformers to speed up premature failure by running them at a higher voltage than they are designed for.
 6   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Is it just me or is Satco a popular brand among builders?  on: March 17, 2026, 10:26:36 PM 
Started by Lightingeye60 - Last post by Lightingeye60
A lot of satco’s products are specialty bulbs.
 7   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / The decline in quality of LED bulbs  on: March 17, 2026, 10:23:16 PM 
Started by Lightingeye60 - Last post by Lightingeye60
I’ve been noticing that lately, I’ve been seeing a lot of failed LEDs, when I’ve seen much less in 2017. I notice that I often see much more newer LED bulbs fail than older ones. Older LEDs often went on 7-10 years, while newer bulbs often last 1-2 years.

Online, nowadays, there are so many reviews regarding premature failures. It’s like the companies now design them to fail by the time the warranty expires. I’ve also been noticing that LED bulbs are now more lightweight and I’ve seen YouTube video teardowns of modern LED’s and the power supply only consists of a capacitor and a circuit board, with a little aluminum for the heatsink. Most older LEDs go on for years and many are still going strong. Older LEDs often didn’t have as good light quality as newer LEDs, and they didn’t look that good, but they lasted MUCH longer, even LEDs from the mid to late 2010s (like models from 2016-2017) often lasted for years. The lifespan advertised for LEDs keeps going down. The warranties keep getting lower. Energy star stopped certifying LED bulbs unless they are an integrated LED light fixture or ceiling fan.

At this point, LED’s really don’t last much longer than CFLs, it’s sad, but true. LEDs are really like your instant start CFL all over again. CFLs would say last 10,000 hours and they never came close. That’s how the LEDs are no. I’m guessing the companies are just overdriving the LEDs a bit to lose one watt of electricity. I heard companies are reducing the number of LEDs in bulbs for efficiency reasons, but are driving them harder, giving like an 800 lumen snowcone LED using like 6 watts. That’s why so many LEDs fail prematurely. They are intentionally overdriving the LEDs to make them “more efficient”, even the reputable brands tend to die within 1-2 years now. In 2016, if someone installed an LED for example, you didn’t usually see it burned out by 2017. It seems that the pandemic has affected the quality of light bulbs permanently, and this isn’t even limited just to LEDs. Ever since 2020, every type of light bulb has gotten worse in quality. And for LEDs, I noticed the decline started in around 2018-2019, when LEDs already started to get worse and worse. And, even in 2018-2019, good LED options still existed. The GE’s were decent, as well as higher end Philips (as long as it wasn’t the warm glow filament bulb) and the higher end sylvania. The U.S.-made sylvanias weren’t made well from the outside but they lasted a while. TCP has reduced the quality of their LEDs dramatically in 2018-2019, with both their own bulbs and the ones they made for Great Value. Later TCP LEDs (and the Great Value variants) were junk. Older TCP LEDs were good. They made the heat sinks smaller and they used less components. Newer TCP LEDs also love to strobe before they die.
 8   General / General Discussion / Re: Gas filling in T5 fluorescent tubes (classic, HE, HO, energy saving versions)  on: March 17, 2026, 08:02:49 PM 
Started by PlasmaAddict - Last post by James
T5 fills tend to be a bit complex, and vary a lot between different manufacturers. Based on the design of experiments it transpires that there are multiple different compositions that deliver basically the same initial performance.  Occasionally it was found that even though some are identical in terms of initial photoelectric data, there are differences that appear as the lamps age, or in the ignition behaviour, sensitivity to ambient temperature variations, and other effects like arc swirling and snaking.  As a result there were quite frequent changes over time, in search of the optimum conditions.  Same of course for all other parameters like the electrode geometry and emitter coating weight and chemistry.  At some manufacturers the following optimised fills were gradually worked out for T5 types:

T5 Miniature 6W & HO 11W : Argon 1.6mbar
T5 Miniature 8W & HO 15W : Argon 2.1mbar
T5 Miniature 13W & HO 25W : Argon 3.15mbar
T5 Emergency 6W: Cronigen 2.7mbar
T5 Emergency 8W: Cronigen 3.2mbar
T5 FHE 14W: Argon 2.45mbar
T5 FHE 21W: 89:11 Ar:Kr 2.15mbar
T5 FHE 28W: 89:11 Ar:Kr 2.25mbar
T5 FHE 35W: 79:21 Ar:Kr 2.75mbar
T5 FHO 24W: 51:49 Ne:Ar 2.75mbar
T5 FHO 39W: 51:49 Ne:Ar 2.15mbar
T5 FHO 49W: Argon 2.75mbar
T5 FHO 54W: Argon 3.65mbar
T5 FHO 80W: Argon 3.15mbar
T5L8 24W 15in: Argon 2.2mbar
T5L8 28W 2ft: Argon 2.65mbar
T5L8 45W 3ft: Argon 3.45mbar
T5L8 54W 4ft: Argon 4.1mbar
T5L8 80W 6ft: 75:25 Ar:Kr 2.5mbar
T5 FHE Eco 13W: 75:25 Ar:Kr 2.05mbar
T5 FHE Eco 19W: 55:45 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar
T5 FHE Eco 25W: 45:55 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar
T5 FHE Eco 32W: 49:51 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar
T5 FHO Eco 20W: 89:11 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar
T5 FHO Eco 34W: 96:4 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar
T5 FHO Eco 50W: 40:60 Ar:Kr 2.05mbar
T5 FHO Eco 45W: 40:60 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar
T5 FHO Eco 73W: 79:21 Ar:Kr 2.0mbar

 10   General / General Discussion / Re: Gas filling in T5 fluorescent tubes (classic, HE, HO, energy saving versions)  on: March 17, 2026, 05:27:04 PM 
Started by PlasmaAddict - Last post by dudam001
@dor123 It wouldn't hurt anyone to try, Dor.
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