Technically a Web Find but a relatively off topic one so I'm putting it here.

Dumet wire is pretty easy to find on Ebay, but only in large quantities costing $100 or more. Recently I was looking through the United Nuclear site (they have a bunch of cool stuff), and found that they sell 10ft lengths of Dumet for $15. It is .35mm diameter which is approximately 22 AWG. IDK if anyone else is interested in making their own discharge tubes/neon sign electrodes, but if you are this is pretty useful stuff obviously.

https://unitednuclear.com/electrical-devices-c-27_37/dumet-wire-p-1332.html

I’m talking about the Lantern shape itself

Uranus :
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=0&pid=259263

Venus (old version) :
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=1&pid=167351

Melody (Originally a HID lantern, but existed in LED using the same optics as Venus) :
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=11&pid=43914

The main design goal with LED lights is to spread the light evenly on the road (that's what sells in the photos, like in the LED vs HPS pictures Max used to upload to the gallery), including in the range where it doesn't even matter anymore

Our vision is capable of handling light level differences of 1000:1, handles easily 10:1, in the HID days 4:1 was considered awesome, but now LED lighting specialists feel the need to achieve <2:1, and screw every other parameter that was compromised to get there. So not much was left besides flat lens panels with a specific lens shape

Then, the "swatter" form factor is about as optimized as it gets to be able to heatsink the LED array of this configuration, with the least amount of Aluminum possible

Any proper optic control at the light source itself, to reduce the luminance, hide the light source above the cutoff line, or provide any sensible cutoff (and not 90deg of basic FCO), got thrown out of the window

The fact that most of the people judge how good a light source is is by its glare (ie more glare - better lighting), and that aesthetic designers get hooked so easily on the "smart" aesthetic of "swatters", don't help here either

SOX lantern as is may not be the optimal in terms of efficiency and glare, especially because it eliminates the cutoff that can already be achieved with the LEDs alone. With SOX lamp the light was not interfering with vision and not causing eye strain even with a bare lamp, the same cannot work for LED without additional optical components under the diffuser

I know heat can help, but be careful with that...

That's the thing I'm worried about, I don't want to apply so much heat that it damages the paint.

I may well be wrong, but seeing as @Maxim is selling some stuff, he may have something for cheap + postage.

Careful application of heat, either with a heat gun or a torch can help. A stronger penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, applied in conjunction with heat will also help.

I know heat can help, but be careful with that...

Presumably wasn't selling well and was costly to make. As LED technology advanced and they made newer designs, there was no reason to continue the selenium.

Thats just my guess though.

On my QL 114, three of the four screws holding the ballast door in place are completely seized up. The one I was able to get loose with some effort, but the others are completely stuck. Even after applying WD-40, they still won't budge. How do I go about loosening them?