21   General / General Discussion / Re: 70 HPS watt wall pack issues  on: April 17, 2019, 06:37:37 PM 
Started by ramdude2014 - Last post by joseph_125
I managed to revive a Caster HPS ballast by wiring in a red barbecue piezoelectric ignitor in parallel to the lamp and using the barbecue ignitor to start the lamp manually. It works because the barbecue ignitors work by generating a high voltage pulse to spark the burner on a barbecue. In a lamp circuit it acts as a ignitor. 
 22   General / General Discussion / Re: What Street Lights do you have?  on: April 17, 2019, 06:26:14 PM 
Started by fluorescent lover 40 - Last post by joseph_125
I have 4 cobraheads, 3 gumballs, 2 remote ballasted mercury lights, and 4 yardlights.

1967 GE M250R Crime Fighter - 175w MV
1976 Thorn Nite-Liter - 175w MV
1980 Powerlite B2255 - 400w MV (Converted from 250w HPS)
1993 Sylvania R47 - 100w MV    (Converted from 250w HPS)
1996 Cooper UCD - 70w HPS
2011 Cooper OVF - 400w HPS

1950s Large Powerlite Gumball - Mogul Incandescent
1950s Small Powerlite Gumball - Medium Incandescent
1950s Line Material Sphero-Lite Jr. - Medium Incandescent

2x 1960s Revere Urban-Lite - 175w remote MV

I got pretty much all of my lights from local sellers, antique/flea markets and the occasional Restore find. Aside from the Crime Fighter and the Urban-Lites, the rest are representative of what was used in the Toronto area.   
 23   Lanterns/Fixtures / Vintage & Antique / Re: What are the oldest street/security lights in your area?  on: April 17, 2019, 06:24:17 PM 
Started by Cole D. - Last post by joseph_125
I love how Toronto has all of those MH gumballs. They look great.

Yeah, they're pretty neat and much better alternative to installing HPS. The majority of the gumballs were installed in the mid 90s and replaced multiple incandescent gumballs. The model used in the initial install are Cooper URB which were discontinued in 2008ish. Newer installations use bare aluminium King Luminaire PSMH teardrop fixtures.
 24   General / General Discussion / Re: Jelly jar fixtures  on: April 17, 2019, 04:53:02 PM 
Started by Cole D. - Last post by xmaslightguy
Have a couple of them, both have incandescent lamps in them. CFLs take too long to warm up (especially in winter), they only get used for short periods of time, so the power use isn't an issue.
 25   General / General Discussion / Re: What Street Lights do you have?  on: April 17, 2019, 04:46:51 PM 
Started by fluorescent lover 40 - Last post by xmaslightguy
A 150w HPS GE M250-R2
A 200w HPS AEL 115
2 of those 20w Warm-White LED 'eBay streetlights'
 26   Advertisements / For Sale or Trade / Line material Gumballs on eBay in California !  on: April 17, 2019, 03:41:52 PM 
Started by wide-lite 1000 - Last post by wide-lite 1000
For all you West-coasters (and everyone else) eBay seller "tonhackamac" has 7 line material gumballs for sale. eBay search "Antique Looking Aluminum Stadium Lights" and they should pop right up !
 27   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Leotek Green Cobra "Warm Up" period, I miss Mercury Vapor!!!  on: April 17, 2019, 07:35:17 AM 
Started by M250R201SA - Last post by M250R201SA
“I’m rolling in my grave!”
Signed,
Tom Edison
 28   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Leotek Green Cobra "Warm Up" period, I miss Mercury Vapor!!!  on: April 17, 2019, 06:54:58 AM 
Started by M250R201SA - Last post by fluorescent lover 40
I can’t say I’m a fan of GE anymore.  Back in the ‘80s (early), they were the “bees knees”, and if your street was lit up by a GE, you were in great shape!  They could do no wrong!  The capacitor problems of the M250R2s and the failure of late model 201SAs have all but stained their reputation in my eyes.  All of the 201SAs that were installed in the last 5 years seem to be failing completely. 

Just 2 years ago, I watched a lineman try to troubleshoot a 100w sodium 201SA, finally, he just said “#*%^ IT!” And replaced the whole thing.  Since then, I have seen several do the same thing.  Most of the LEDs that are being put up are replacing “fairly new” 201SAs.  Older 201s are still going strong.  It’s gotten to the point where I have asked myself if Ameren ordered a bunch of “Walmart” fixtures? (Got them on the cheap with no real life expectancy to use until the LEDs came online)

Even most of their light bulbs and locomotives are junk now. The newer 2017-2018 fluorescent lamps only lasted 1-2 years. And their locomotives have lots of problems with certain things blowing quickly.
 29   General / General Discussion / Re: I need help for ballast a MV lamp!  on: April 17, 2019, 02:29:41 AM 
Started by Binarix128 - Last post by Medved
Hi everyone. I want to test the MV lamps fastly with an incandescent light, but I don't know how to calculate the wattage acording the MV lamp wattage. Please tell me a tip for calculate the lamp wattage acording to the MV or MH lamp wattage  Wink .

Try to search through the forums here, this topic was discussed through already a few times, including step by step manual (with links to the required graphs) to determine the correct ballasting lamp or combination for a given discharge spec.
 30   General / Off-Topic / Re: I need help for a camera  on: April 17, 2019, 02:21:47 AM 
Started by Binarix128 - Last post by Medved
First most cameras have 5VDC supply input on some connector, usually asking for 2A rating. So connecting any 5V/2A "mobile charger" to that connector should work.
Otherwise:
What batteries it takes?
If R6 (I guess so from your photo), you may count anything in the 1.1..1.5V per cell, round it to the nearest convenient voltage for an available regulator.
If it is a LiIon cell, 3.3V should be OK (if the converter is adjustable, you may set it to the 3.6 or 3.7V, anything within the 3.2..4.2V range should be fine)
Industry standard voltages are 2.5V, 3.3V, 5V, many convertors are actually adjustable.
Then use some DCDC step down converter module (E-bay, AliExpress, Banggood,... are full of these), rated for at least 2A output and set or settable for the voltage you need for the camera (see above). Place this module into the battery compartment and connect instead of the battery, with input wires going through the battery cover.
Then supply this from some 12V or so of suitable power rating (count the module efficiency as about 60%).

For 5V you may use directly some 5V brick, then you need an low ESR capacitor (in the 1000..2200uF range, rated about 10V) placed in the battery compartment in the camera to eliminate the inductance of the cable.
Using the converter has an advantage in the possibility to supply its input directly from the car 12V socket...

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
© 2005-2019 Lighting-Gallery.net | Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines