Author Topic: Old cast iron fluorescent table lamp - electrical guts  (Read 1726 times)
toadbeener
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Old cast iron fluorescent table lamp - electrical guts « on: November 08, 2020, 09:46:24 PM » Author: toadbeener
Hello, I'm new to LG.  I'm trying to figure out what I have.  I like to restore older pieces - usually wood, but I recently obtained a cast iron, art-deco-ish, fluorescent (single 18") table lamp. 

My preference would be for it to be able to work as-is.  I don't understand the fluorescent circuit, I can get 120V at the tombstones, but no voltage across the ballast.

The ballast is a GE 58G670 Series Ballast for 15 Watt Fluorescent Lamp.  The switch is a Edwin Gaynor/Gaynor-Andrews Cat 8847.

My question is this:  Are these old components worth the attempt at salvaging, or would you recommend replacing with modern technology?

Pictures of lamp, ballast and switch included.

If I've posted in the wrong place, please let me know.

Thank you.
Tommy
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Re: Old cast iron fluorescent table lamp - electrical guts « Reply #1 on: November 08, 2020, 10:15:06 PM » Author: Patrick
The standard preheat fluorescent wiring diagram applies here.

The one difference being that this is manual preheat (press and hold to start).  So your switch serves as the starter in the circuit, and also a switch for the supply line.  That's why you'll have four wires to the switch, the two for the starter, and the two for mains power.

I presume you attempted to switch this on by pressing, holding, then releasing the switch, correct?  That'd be my first question.  If the ballast has gone open-circuit or is otherwise faulty, it shouldn't be to much trouble to find a comparable replacement.  I'm not sure if those starter switches are readily available, but you could get by with a regular switch and add an automatic starter.  You could alternatively install an electronic ballast that doesn't need a starter.  That'd require more wires if the ballast was to remain in the base, but should be doable.

The switch could be faulty as well.  You could try bypassing one or both of the switch functions.  With the both bypassed, the ends of the lamp should glow continuously.  If you put the starter portion on a separate switch, nothing should happen when it's open, the ends should glow when closed, then the tube should light normally once opened again.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2020, 10:19:15 PM by Patrick » Logged

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Re: Old cast iron fluorescent table lamp - electrical guts « Reply #2 on: November 19, 2020, 01:47:26 PM » Author: Rommie
Have you had any luck with this..? It would be useful if you could post a photo or two, either here or in the gallery. Let us know if you need help on how to do that.
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