Author Topic: "Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work  (Read 1166 times)
WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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"Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work « on: December 12, 2021, 06:01:21 AM » Author: WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
Even though most of us are often told that we MUST match HID lamps and fluorescent tubes with their "correct" ballasts, here is an exercise that encourages you to "think outside the box":

In this thread, name as many "incompatible" gas discharge lamp/ballast/starter/ignitor combinations that are able to start and operate their lamps at or near their proper arc voltage and current without causing harm to the lamp and ballast involved.

For example, a North American 70w M98 pulse start metal halide ballast will properly run a North American 100w H38 mercury vapor lamp properly assuming the ignitor is disconnected from the circuit.

If you strictly believe that all fluorescent and HID lamps must be used with their "correct" ballasts, feel free to avoid this thread.
« Last Edit: December 12, 2021, 06:13:35 AM by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA » Logged

Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.

DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.

Roi_hartmann
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Re: "Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work « Reply #1 on: December 12, 2021, 08:24:37 AM » Author: Roi_hartmann
Are we talking here about "yes it lit up and didn't blow" or "I measured the current and lamp voltage and it was within what specs required"?
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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Re: "Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work « Reply #2 on: December 12, 2021, 09:03:01 AM » Author: WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
Yes, I am talking about both characteristics that you described here. In that case, I mean, "yes, it lit up and did not blow" AND "it is well within the rated arc voltage and current".

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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.

DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.

Medved
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Re: "Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work « Reply #3 on: December 12, 2021, 05:55:02 PM » Author: Medved
Well, it is not only the voltgage and current, but as well the load characteristic (how the ballast output current responds on variations of the arc voltage; very important for thermal stability; some lamps require an active arctube temperature stabilization, like white HPS or the very low power MH), the things like crest factor and frequency (to prevent accoustic resonance induced hotspots in the arctube). Plus then the safety features like robustness against rectifying lamp (at least European spec MH's needs that; usually in the form of ballast overtemperature cutout device), the requirement to automatically shut down a misbehaving lamp (so reduce the risk ofviolent EOL explosion).

So if the ballast meets the requirements of a lamp, it is a compatible ballast (e.g. 100W MV on an European 70W HPS choke without an ignitor), even when not formally rated for that.

Contrary to that even when a 70W European spec HPS has the same voltage and current cpecs, you can say a 70W HPS is compatible with virtually any 70W MH ballast, a 70W MH iscompatibleonly with very few 70W HPS ballasts (or only with very few lanterns - only those that can safely conrain an overheated gear fire)
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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Re: "Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work « Reply #4 on: December 15, 2021, 08:35:00 AM » Author: WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
In some cases, I have been able to run some fluorescent tubes off magnetic HID ballasts wired as preheat fluorescent tube ballasts using fluorescent starters. For example, I got a European F58T8 fluorescent tube to run nicely on a North American 50w M110 pulse start metal halide magnetic ballast with the ignitor disconnected and the tube ran at 115v 0.55a, which seems like a fairly close match for that fluorescent tube.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.

DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.

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Re: "Incompatible" lamp/ballast combinations that actually work « Reply #5 on: December 15, 2021, 08:48:57 AM » Author: funkybulb
Me running 110 watt F96T12 HO on 125 watt popular pack.   But with a capacitor adjustment cause 60 Hz was big issue at play due leadng capcitor in series.  By dropping 7.2 down to 5 uF  it aucually
Ran F96T12 at 790 mA as most british 8 footer runs at 960 mA
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No LED gadgets, spins too slowly.  Gotta  love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.

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