In Australia, we don't have the handy codes that the USA has. I've seen pictures of these codes and it makes finding a replacement lamp much easier. Just buy a lamp that matches the ballast code. In Australia, it's harder because we don't have ballast codes. All we have to rely on is the confusing jumbles of letters and numbers on the packaging and etch which is made more confusing because each manufacturer has their own codes. It's worse when the etch rubs off and I can't tell if the lamp is MH or MV
I'll use my 70w MH lamps as an example.
They are both 70 watts, one is coated and one is clear.
The clear lamp says MH/P 70W/640.
The coated lamp says MP 70W/CO4K.
All I can tell from what I see is 2 70w MH lamps, a clear lamp and a coated lamp.
I have nothing to indicate pulse start lamps, burn position or if it's some special self igniting lamp designed to run on MV gear. There's also very little info online that tells me in simple terms what all the codes mean or if vertical burn means base up or base down. It's no wonder why we see so many mislamped fixtures and HPS fixtures with MH lamps inside. It also doesn't help with the fact I'm trying to stock up on HPS and MV lamps and only get MH lamps that I don't feel safe using because I'm scared i'll use it on the incorrect gear by mistake and cause the lamp to explode. I still like to collect MH lamps because they look interesting and come in many different variations. It's just Australia's lack of an easy to use quick reference code system makes it so hard to find the correct lamp. I wish we had ballast codes here in Aus.

70W MH lamps usually operates on 70W HPS ballast + ignitor.
I think both are universal burning.

Thanks!

When using with open fixture, double check whether the lamp is rated for open fixture (these will have rather thick quartz protection tube around the arctube) or for enclosed only (no protection element around the arctube, just the outer).

Otherwise officially MH lamps require ballast protection against the lamp rectifying (thermal cut out or at least a slow blow fuse/breaker of 2x the nominal arc current rating, so 2A for a 70W).