I am wondering what the best VOM (analog multimeter) is the best for working on light fixtures. One that can be overloaded a decent amount and not explode. I am thinking something along the lines of a Simpson model 260, or a Triplett model 630. I would also like it to be (relatively) cheap to buy used and have decent accuracy and durability.

I don't understand what benefit would have an "analog" meter for electrical servicing.
Generally analog meters are everything but durable or overload tolerant, more the contrary to that.

Generally you need AC V-meter (that is available in analog),
resistance meter (that part seems to be available),
audible (so you may keep your eyes focused where the probes are connected) continuity tester (generally not available in analog)
AC current measurement (usually available), but better in a clamp meter format (first you don't have to open the wires to measure so not big safety problem to measure e.g. the pulse start HID arc current to determine the ballast health, second you may measure total current through multiple wires like fluorescent arc current on RS ballast to check the ballast health, and 3rd there risk of connecting the A-meter input to the mains is eliminated).

Useful could be capacitor tester, but there you usually end up with some method for measuring the capacitance, but usually you have no idea about what that method is (so how it is affected by parasitics or other defects). And checking the leakage or ESR (important mainly with electrolytic motor start types - they may be shot and not start anything but still exhibit seemingly correct capacitance on a simple C-meter) is possible only on special testers anyway.
Because the capacitance you may easily check by connecting to mains and measuring the current (C = I / (2*pi*freq) / V), the capacitance range I see as not that important (e.g. less than the clamp A-meter feature).

And everything designed so it would not get damaged even if accidentally connected to mains (definitely not available in analog and in the resistance/continuity ranges even most cheap digital meters do not withstand the mains connection, however still usually remain safe for the operator), the clamp style A-meter format solves it for the current measurements.
Ignore those "big mouths", who argue like "Protected meter is nonsense, I've used analog meter for 40 years and never connected it wrong". First they are either plain lying (they did blew up quite long row of instruments over that time), or took it in their hands just twice over that time. Believe me, you will connect an Ohm- or A-meter into the mains. It is not matter of "if", but "when" and believe mi, it will happen quite often. And the last one thing you need is for the meter to explode in your hand or lap (that is the matter of build quality and safety, not that much if it is analog or digital). And the second last thing is the meter being ruined in the middle of your work.


So really better go for some simpler AC-only clamp meter, even the cheap ones, are order of magnitude safer (mainly against user error, mainly connecting wrong range to wrong circuit), observe for proper CAT rating (I would not go below cat-III for the voltages you are dealing with). If you may chose, better go for a bit higher CAT rating and buy a pack of spare high quality fuses for it, you will definitely need to replace one at the most inconvenient place...

Unless you plan to work on DC installations (solar, car,...), you won't need the DC clamp meter, which is first way more expensive and second quite finicky to use (very sensitive to external magnetic fields), better to spend that money on better protected device.

I think I may end up looking into the Fluke 325, because it has everything you listed here, and (amazingly) I can afford it!

It is one of the more expensive types, but I don't think it is a bad choice, mainly if it is going to be a workhorse for daily professional use....
Fluke in general is known for really fulfilling the claimed safety and robustness (this is not that frequent in the "handheld meter industry"), so the price is perfectly justified in my books.

It is one of the more expensive types, but I don't think it is a bad choice, mainly if it is going to be a workhorse for daily professional use....
Fluke in general is known for really fulfilling the claimed safety and robustness (this is not that frequent in the "handheld meter industry"), so the price is perfectly justified in my books.

I probably wouldn't use it for fixing light fixtures everyday, I would probably mostly use it for working on electronics, with the occasional light fixture.

I thought you are looking for an instrument for power electrical installation work.
For really low power low voltage electronic you would likely need lower current ranges as well, there the clamp meter is too crude and tye accuracy won't likely be enough, a classical multimeter format would work better.
The thing is, these two areas differ so much practically need separate instruments.
Electrical installation work includes work on various crazy and awkward places with bad illumination, so needs something that reduces the risk from accidental wrong connections, probe slips and similar mishaps, so need a robust, rather fool proof device. But henerally do not need e.g. that much of accuracy, 5% class uses to be enough. Plus you don't need the low ranges that much (about 1V and 10mA resolution use to be good enough on AC, DC is used very rarely), hence the clamp meter format.

On the other hand electronic repair usually happens at rather clean bench, so the user mishaps are less likely. Plus the fault energies involved use to be far lower.
But for many things you need better accuracy of both voltage and currents, mainly on DC and ranges going down to mV and uA.
Trying to combine both into a single instrument won't work, it costs more than  uying those two as separate instruments of comparable quality. Really high accuracy and sensitivity does not fly well with high robustness (high CAT level rating), either needs different design approaches and attempting to combine both into one device yields mediocre performance for either use or really excessive price tag.

So maybe for the power electrical work go for a cheaper AC only clamp meter (yet with sufficient CAT rating and reputable quality), the DC capability really means price x2 on clamp meters, yet still the accuracy will never be better than +/- 10mA (assume proper zeroing procedure), mainly due to Earths magnetic field impacting the clamp sensor.
And then some more accurate, even CAT II rated multimeter for the fine electronic work. And for that buy few packets of spare high quality fuses. Even when going for smoe cheap meter, for the low power electronic I would not see that much issue with it, the DC accuracy uses to be good even with cheap devices (but you need to check them regularly).

I think I may end up looking into the Fluke 325, because it has everything you listed here, and (amazingly) I can afford it!

I have a Fluke 325 and I can confirm it is excellent at what it does. The probes that come with it aren't the best though, if you can go for the TP175 TwistGuard ones, or failing that the TP74.

I thought you are looking for an instrument for power electrical installation work.
For really low power low voltage electronic you would likely need lower current ranges as well, there the clamp meter is too crude and tye accuracy won't likely be enough, a classical multimeter format would work better.
The thing is, these two areas differ so much practically need separate instruments.
Electrical installation work includes work on various crazy and awkward places with bad illumination, so needs something that reduces the risk from accidental wrong connections, probe slips and similar mishaps, so need a robust, rather fool proof device. But henerally do not need e.g. that much of accuracy, 5% class uses to be enough. Plus you don't need the low ranges that much (about 1V and 10mA resolution use to be good enough on AC, DC is used very rarely), hence the clamp meter format.

On the other hand electronic repair usually happens at rather clean bench, so the user mishaps are less likely. Plus the fault energies involved use to be far lower.
But for many things you need better accuracy of both voltage and currents, mainly on DC and ranges going down to mV and uA.
Trying to combine both into a single instrument won't work, it costs more than  uying those two as separate instruments of comparable quality. Really high accuracy and sensitivity does not fly well with high robustness (high CAT level rating), either needs different design approaches and attempting to combine both into one device yields mediocre performance for either use or really excessive price tag.

So maybe for the power electrical work go for a cheaper AC only clamp meter (yet with sufficient CAT rating and reputable quality), the DC capability really means price x2 on clamp meters, yet still the accuracy will never be better than +/- 10mA (assume proper zeroing procedure), mainly due to Earths magnetic field impacting the clamp sensor.
And then some more accurate, even CAT II rated multimeter for the fine electronic work. And for that buy few packets of spare high quality fuses. Even when going for smoe cheap meter, for the low power electronic I would not see that much issue with it, the DC accuracy uses to be good even with cheap devices (but you need to check them regularly).

Yeah, If I am only working on the occasional light fixture, a cheaper one would probably be better.